Bench bleeding the TOB
02-11-2015, 03:20 AM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Not my first rodeo. It is undeniable that a TOB that is already full of fluid with very little air inside the pipe will make the entire bleeding process faster. Just looking to get it done faster with less chance of air.
02-19-2015, 10:43 PM
#27
Your way does sound very sound and thorough. After trying to do it alone yesterday by bleeding it while pumping, i did it by the build book.
Which was as follows and seems fishy..
Connect vac bleeder to resiovior. Mine didnt have an attachment to screw into the cap so i left the cap on and attached to the open 1/4 neck protruding from the top of the res,
Pump vac bleeder to 15, wait for ten minutes.
Relieve pressure, pump clutch 10 or so times, then do it again a few more times waiting 5 minutes in vacum each time.
Idk far as i can tell im feeling normal clutch pedal pressure. But idk how the vac method actually pulls any air.
Which was as follows and seems fishy..
Connect vac bleeder to resiovior. Mine didnt have an attachment to screw into the cap so i left the cap on and attached to the open 1/4 neck protruding from the top of the res,
Pump vac bleeder to 15, wait for ten minutes.
Relieve pressure, pump clutch 10 or so times, then do it again a few more times waiting 5 minutes in vacum each time.
Idk far as i can tell im feeling normal clutch pedal pressure. But idk how the vac method actually pulls any air.
03-03-2015, 05:15 PM
#28
Senior Member
you guys are over complicating this. just pump the pedal and bleed it with a friend. works every time on just about every car without bench bleeding anything. There is zero chance that you will damage anything using this method.
03-26-2015, 12:18 AM
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Just finished another clutch job(ky warranty)..I did not replace the TOB as it was only 5k miles old. I secured the trans mounts then popped on the hydraulic line elbow. Let it sit for a few minutes with the bleeder cracked open. Then, vaccum bled the TOB at the distribution block bleeder nipple. It took less than 5 minutes and I did not touch the pedal once. Since the TOB already had residual fluid inside and line was gravity bled, all I had to do was vacuum bleed until the air stopped which happened quickly. Only one set of hands and eyes needed this way.
If using new TOB, I would suck fluid into it and let the fluid settle inside the slave overnight. This should produce same result other than may push out little fluid during install.
If using new TOB, I would suck fluid into it and let the fluid settle inside the slave overnight. This should produce same result other than may push out little fluid during install.
03-26-2015, 12:28 AM
#30
Your over complicating this...... But to each is their own. I always do the 2 man method. Works the best in my opinion. have some push some through with the bleeder open until the fluid looks nearly air free. Close it. Pump it up, open close repeat until no air. Takes me 5 minutes at most to do. Matter of fact it took me 5 minutes to do an entire bleed after replacing the clutch master, lines, tob, clutch pipe and block. No need for bench bleeding or a vacuum bleeder. Vaccum bleeders don't always work either.
03-26-2015, 10:05 AM
#31
Just finished another clutch job(ky warranty)..I did not replace the TOB as it was only 5k miles old. I secured the trans mounts then popped on the hydraulic line elbow. Let it sit for a few minutes with the bleeder cracked open. Then, vaccum bled the TOB at the distribution block bleeder nipple. It took less than 5 minutes and I did not touch the pedal once. Since the TOB already had residual fluid inside and line was gravity bled, all I had to do was vacuum bleed until the air stopped which happened quickly. Only one set of hands and eyes needed this way.
If using new TOB, I would suck fluid into it and let the fluid settle inside the slave overnight. This should produce same result other than may push out little fluid during install.
If using new TOB, I would suck fluid into it and let the fluid settle inside the slave overnight. This should produce same result other than may push out little fluid during install.
You shouldn't have put that back in; it will likely fail just like my warranty replacement.
03-26-2015, 12:47 PM
#32
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Your over complicating this...... But to each is their own. I always do the 2 man method. Works the best in my opinion. have some push some through with the bleeder open until the fluid looks nearly air free. Close it. Pump it up, open close repeat until no air. Takes me 5 minutes at most to do. Matter of fact it took me 5 minutes to do an entire bleed after replacing the clutch master, lines, tob, clutch pipe and block. No need for bench bleeding or a vacuum bleeder. Vaccum bleeders don't always work either.
... BUT I now have 250 city miles on the clutch (no wot pulls yet) and it feels much much better than the first one. The puck material look slightly different and a less pourous so I have high hopes it will last until the f40 kit is ready(crossing fingers)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post