View Poll Results: Downshift or neutral
Downshift
284
52.50%
neutral
257
47.50%
Voters: 541. You may not vote on this poll
Downshift or neutral??
05-16-2007, 01:31 PM
#101
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I understand that inertia will keep the car moving, but the thing I am having trouble with here is that the engine moves the car, and in turn the wheels, the wheels moving dont run the engine.
if you were to start at the top of a hill with the engine off, put it in neutral (or in gear for that matter) and push, momentum is not going to get the engine working.
The power only goes in one direction, you cant turn your wheels and make your engine move.
Because if you really used no gas on de-cel, theoretically you should be able downshift, turn the key off, and have your engine still running. But if you turn the key off, the engine gets no more fuel and therefore stops running. You will still coast down the remainder of the hill, but that is simply because the car was already moving.
And that is my point, that even if you downshift and are not injecting fuel to move, your engine is still consuming fuel to run.
if you were to start at the top of a hill with the engine off, put it in neutral (or in gear for that matter) and push, momentum is not going to get the engine working.
The power only goes in one direction, you cant turn your wheels and make your engine move.
Because if you really used no gas on de-cel, theoretically you should be able downshift, turn the key off, and have your engine still running. But if you turn the key off, the engine gets no more fuel and therefore stops running. You will still coast down the remainder of the hill, but that is simply because the car was already moving.
And that is my point, that even if you downshift and are not injecting fuel to move, your engine is still consuming fuel to run.
Agreed.. fuel cutoff will stop any fuel from entering the cylinders when the engine is coasting down at low tps readings..
But.. fuel will be added during throttle blip to rev-match.. effectively canceling out fuel savings.
If you dont rev match.. your probalby are a little harder on clutch and tranny parts than you should be.
Coasting Dangerous?.. not really.. totally depends on the situation and the loose nut behind the wheel...
But.. fuel will be added during throttle blip to rev-match.. effectively canceling out fuel savings.
If you dont rev match.. your probalby are a little harder on clutch and tranny parts than you should be.
Coasting Dangerous?.. not really.. totally depends on the situation and the loose nut behind the wheel...
Think of how the poor horse feels.
Last edited by Witt; 05-16-2007 at 01:32 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
05-16-2007, 02:44 PM
#103
Senior Member
I understand that inertia will keep the car moving, but the thing I am having trouble with here is that the engine moves the car, and in turn the wheels, the wheels moving dont run the engine.
if you were to start at the top of a hill with the engine off, put it in neutral (or in gear for that matter) and push, momentum is not going to get the engine working.
The power only goes in one direction, you cant turn your wheels and make your engine move.
Because if you really used no gas on de-cel, theoretically you should be able downshift, turn the key off, and have your engine still running. But if you turn the key off, the engine gets no more fuel and therefore stops running. You will still coast down the remainder of the hill, but that is simply because the car was already moving.
And that is my point, that even if you downshift and are not injecting fuel to move, your engine is still consuming fuel to run.
if you were to start at the top of a hill with the engine off, put it in neutral (or in gear for that matter) and push, momentum is not going to get the engine working.
The power only goes in one direction, you cant turn your wheels and make your engine move.
Because if you really used no gas on de-cel, theoretically you should be able downshift, turn the key off, and have your engine still running. But if you turn the key off, the engine gets no more fuel and therefore stops running. You will still coast down the remainder of the hill, but that is simply because the car was already moving.
And that is my point, that even if you downshift and are not injecting fuel to move, your engine is still consuming fuel to run.
hmm how to explain this so it makes sense....
when your doing 60mph cruisin down the road, and you downshift, the inertia of the car is causing the wheels to turn.
when the wheels are turning, your powertrain is turning, your clutch is turning, your crank is turning, your pistons are moving up and down.
whether you inject fuel or not, those pistons are going to move up and down.
because its all connected.
and as soon as theres not enough momentum to turn those wheels at a certain speed, the PCM calls for fuel again, and away you go.
so why inject fuel into the cylinder if theres no need to?
so the PCM doesnt.
Have you ever jump started a car?
because thats a great example of how momentum makes your engine run.
you put the clutch in and push.....your pistons arent moving because your clutch is engaged, then you pop the clutch, and the momentum that you caused by pushing, now starts moving the pistons up and down.
05-16-2007, 02:53 PM
#104
Senior Member
I understand that inertia will keep the car moving, but the thing I am having trouble with here is that the engine moves the car, and in turn the wheels, the wheels moving dont run the engine.
The power only goes in one direction, you cant turn your wheels and make your engine move.
And that is my point, that even if you downshift and are not injecting fuel to move, your engine is still consuming fuel to run.
The power only goes in one direction, you cant turn your wheels and make your engine move.
And that is my point, that even if you downshift and are not injecting fuel to move, your engine is still consuming fuel to run.
You can turn your wheels and move the engine... haven't you ever push started a car (manual transmission) w/ a near dead battery?
w/ DFCO your motor is rotating via the movement of the wheels w/o using any fuel.
a motor is basically an air pump... so yes it rotate w/o gas (foot of accelerator) when it is in gear and the car is moving
does that make sense?
05-16-2007, 03:32 PM
#105
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I bolded the part that is incorrect. Again, the clutch is not pressed, therefor if the wheels are turning, so is the crankshaft. That is a running engine. There is no combustion, but the engine is not stalled. A stalled engine means the engine is not turning over, which is not the case here. Have you ever had a dead battery and had to push a car and "catch it in gear" to start it? That is you using power to turn over the engine, it indeed works both ways.
when the wheels are turning, your powertrain is turning, your clutch is turning, your crank is turning, your pistons are moving up and down.
whether you inject fuel or not, those pistons are going to move up and down.
because its all connected.
and as soon as theres not enough momentum to turn those wheels at a certain speed, the PCM calls for fuel again, and away you go.
so why inject fuel into the cylinder if theres no need to?
so the PCM doesnt.
Have you ever jump started a car?
because thats a great example of how momentum makes your engine run.
you put the clutch in and push.....your pistons arent moving because your clutch is engaged, then you pop the clutch, and the momentum that you caused by pushing, now starts moving the pistons up and down.
whether you inject fuel or not, those pistons are going to move up and down.
because its all connected.
and as soon as theres not enough momentum to turn those wheels at a certain speed, the PCM calls for fuel again, and away you go.
so why inject fuel into the cylinder if theres no need to?
so the PCM doesnt.
Have you ever jump started a car?
because thats a great example of how momentum makes your engine run.
you put the clutch in and push.....your pistons arent moving because your clutch is engaged, then you pop the clutch, and the momentum that you caused by pushing, now starts moving the pistons up and down.
the wheels moving w/ the car in gear does move the engine! regardless of whether you are applying gas or not.
You can turn your wheels and move the engine... haven't you ever push started a car (manual transmission) w/ a near dead battery?
w/ DFCO your motor is rotating via the movement of the wheels w/o using any fuel.
a motor is basically an air pump... so yes it rotate w/o gas (foot of accelerator) when it is in gear and the car is moving
does that make sense?
You can turn your wheels and move the engine... haven't you ever push started a car (manual transmission) w/ a near dead battery?
w/ DFCO your motor is rotating via the movement of the wheels w/o using any fuel.
a motor is basically an air pump... so yes it rotate w/o gas (foot of accelerator) when it is in gear and the car is moving
does that make sense?
I had no idea that the wheels and drive train were connected in that way.
Knowing that they are (at least according to you guys) makes all the differance.
Add in that the ECM adds fuel once the RPMS get to a certain level, and this seems entirely plausible.
So, I stand corrected.
Thanks!
05-16-2007, 06:48 PM
#106
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As far as it cancelling out fuel savings, it all depends on how long you wait for the engine to slow down before you downshift and how long you are in DFCO. Fueling values are determined either via airflow or manfold pressure vs. rpm, not simply throttle position. It would be a hell of a calculation to figure out each time that coasting or downshifting would save fuel, either is possible but it really depends on driving habits and length of time decelerating. The point some of us were making is the fact that the engine consumes little or no fuel under deceleration while in gear.
Well, to me.. downshifting coming to a stoplight is pointless if you know you have to come to a complete stop. If you see that you will be able to continue the roll.. then by all means go for it..
Personally, i downshift because im entering a corner hard and doing a little heel toe to keep the car in the powerband upon corner exit.
based on my typical use of downshifting.. i see much lower fuel economy.. but then again, im waiting as long as possible while braking for a corner to begin my downshift sequence and then its constant blipping as i go down.. so pretty much its useles for me.
There are so many variables this is a retarded argument when basing it on fuel consumption. If you base it on maximum torque and control upon corner exit.. its a no brainer
05-16-2007, 07:38 PM
#107
Senior Member
^^ you know what engine braking is right?
I ask this because you focus on the corner exit speed and you dont comment on the fact that downshifting is allowing you to brake later....you say its "pretty much useless"
one of the most useful reasons to downshift coming to a light is the fact that you can use your engines compression to slow you down without burning up brakes.
youd be surprised how much downshifting will save you on brakepads/discs etc.
although its a nice perk, you dont downshift at the lights just so you can be in a higher gear if it turns green.
I ask this because you focus on the corner exit speed and you dont comment on the fact that downshifting is allowing you to brake later....you say its "pretty much useless"
one of the most useful reasons to downshift coming to a light is the fact that you can use your engines compression to slow you down without burning up brakes.
youd be surprised how much downshifting will save you on brakepads/discs etc.
although its a nice perk, you dont downshift at the lights just so you can be in a higher gear if it turns green.
05-16-2007, 08:24 PM
#108
Not a Sebring
Really depends for me.
For instance, on the way to work at 3am, I put it in neutral when I come up to the light simply b/c at 3am in the morning im barely functioning, and finding my car, getting into it, and driving is a big enough feat.......no need to add more fancy moves into my commute, lol.
Now, later on, when im woken up, I might downshift for a few reasons.
1. I see a modded sport compact at the light im coming up to (or in a parking lot/gas station im pulling into.....w/e), so I downshift to be obnoxious and loud to get his/her attention, lol. C'mon, if you have a loud exhaust, you might as well flaunt it sometimes, as long as no cops are around.
2. I see a hottie in a car (signs its a hottie is she's driving a base model RSX, a Celica or a TC.......probally the most tanning salon attending ditzy girl driven cars out there, lol), so I downshift for the same reason above......to get her attetention. Sometimes it works, and they'll look over and smile and check out me + my car, and sometimes it goes the other way.......as in they'll roll up their windows, give me a dirty "jeez, get a quieter car" look, and look away until the light turns green again.
3. The only other time i'd downshift, is if my brakes were to fail, which has never happened, and I hope never will.
I typically go into neutral 9/10 times, but I do downshift to flaunt the exhaust from time to time.
For instance, on the way to work at 3am, I put it in neutral when I come up to the light simply b/c at 3am in the morning im barely functioning, and finding my car, getting into it, and driving is a big enough feat.......no need to add more fancy moves into my commute, lol.
Now, later on, when im woken up, I might downshift for a few reasons.
1. I see a modded sport compact at the light im coming up to (or in a parking lot/gas station im pulling into.....w/e), so I downshift to be obnoxious and loud to get his/her attention, lol. C'mon, if you have a loud exhaust, you might as well flaunt it sometimes, as long as no cops are around.
2. I see a hottie in a car (signs its a hottie is she's driving a base model RSX, a Celica or a TC.......probally the most tanning salon attending ditzy girl driven cars out there, lol), so I downshift for the same reason above......to get her attetention. Sometimes it works, and they'll look over and smile and check out me + my car, and sometimes it goes the other way.......as in they'll roll up their windows, give me a dirty "jeez, get a quieter car" look, and look away until the light turns green again.
3. The only other time i'd downshift, is if my brakes were to fail, which has never happened, and I hope never will.
I typically go into neutral 9/10 times, but I do downshift to flaunt the exhaust from time to time.
05-16-2007, 08:59 PM
#109
Senior Member
^^ you know what engine braking is right?
I ask this because you focus on the corner exit speed and you dont comment on the fact that downshifting is allowing you to brake later....you say its "pretty much useless"
one of the most useful reasons to downshift coming to a light is the fact that you can use your engines compression to slow you down without burning up brakes.
youd be surprised how much downshifting will save you on brakepads/discs etc.
I ask this because you focus on the corner exit speed and you dont comment on the fact that downshifting is allowing you to brake later....you say its "pretty much useless"
one of the most useful reasons to downshift coming to a light is the fact that you can use your engines compression to slow you down without burning up brakes.
youd be surprised how much downshifting will save you on brakepads/discs etc.
and my clutch/T.O. bearings were all fine when I got rid of her at 72,000 miles last July for the SC
braking later gives you quicker lap times as you are holding your straight line speed longer
05-16-2007, 11:18 PM
#110
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the momentum of the car means that even when no further forward forces are applied to the ground...the vehicle continues to move due to its velocity and weight (decellerating of course due to friction).
the momentum of the vehicle turns the wheels, which turns the drivetrain,
which pushes the pistons (assuming the clutch isnt pushed in)
the momentum of the vehicle turns the wheels, which turns the drivetrain,
which pushes the pistons (assuming the clutch isnt pushed in)
^^ you know what engine braking is right?
I ask this because you focus on the corner exit speed and you dont comment on the fact that downshifting is allowing you to brake later....you say its "pretty much useless"
one of the most useful reasons to downshift coming to a light is the fact that you can use your engines compression to slow you down without burning up brakes.
youd be surprised how much downshifting will save you on brakepads/discs etc.
although its a nice perk, you dont downshift at the lights just so you can be in a higher gear if it turns green.
I ask this because you focus on the corner exit speed and you dont comment on the fact that downshifting is allowing you to brake later....you say its "pretty much useless"
one of the most useful reasons to downshift coming to a light is the fact that you can use your engines compression to slow you down without burning up brakes.
youd be surprised how much downshifting will save you on brakepads/discs etc.
although its a nice perk, you dont downshift at the lights just so you can be in a higher gear if it turns green.
MY car has NO engine compression Braking...it is utterly UESLESS for me to do it, and yes I rev matched, has the smoothest downshifts I had in a while, but still, took me four times as long to slow down...(I had to apply the brakes to slow down, even with this Downshift Compression braking, used just as much brakes after the 10th try than I would just keeping it in gear and using the brakes, like the manual says...)
So I ask you again, If you are using your engine to compression brake, I want to see YOU do it in the same time it takes me to go from 55 to 0 using the brakes...
Not trying to be an ass about it, but I tried it and it don't work on this ecotec 2.2 and getrag 5...and my fuel guage still reads out I'm using fuel (even after I reset it while in the gear and coasting)
Last edited by YellowG5; 05-16-2007 at 11:20 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
05-16-2007, 11:35 PM
#111
Senior Member
Been off for a while, but for some reason I cannot picture a car running off of momentum when just coasting in gear or downshifting...cause when I was in gear and cut my engine off (did this accidentally when I was reaching for my phone which I mounted on the dash trim by the key) the damn car bucked, and came to a skidding hault at 45mph!!! So, maybe it works on the 2.4 or 2.0, but the DFCO sure as hell don't work on a 2.2.
WOW, must be something I'm missing, but just to try out what all of you are saying about downshifting to slow the f'in car down...I went out and tried it on my way home tonight, took me three stoplights to get it right, but found out it takes me FOUR times longer to come to a stop than to gradually apply the brakes and leave the car in fith gear and pull it out of gear (without using the clutch) when the rpms hit 1200...
MY car has NO engine compression Braking...it is utterly UESLESS for me to do it, and yes I rev matched, has the smoothest downshifts I had in a while, but still, took me four times as long to slow down...(I had to apply the brakes to slow down, even with this Downshift Compression braking, used just as much brakes after the 10th try than I would just keeping it in gear and using the brakes, like the manual says...)
So I ask you again, If you are using your engine to compression brake, I want to see YOU do it in the same time it takes me to go from 55 to 0 using the brakes...
lol wtf?!?
Not trying to be an ass about it, but I tried it and it don't work on this ecotec 2.2 and getrag 5...and my fuel guage still reads out I'm using fuel (even after I reset it while in the gear and coasting)
WOW, must be something I'm missing, but just to try out what all of you are saying about downshifting to slow the f'in car down...I went out and tried it on my way home tonight, took me three stoplights to get it right, but found out it takes me FOUR times longer to come to a stop than to gradually apply the brakes and leave the car in fith gear and pull it out of gear (without using the clutch) when the rpms hit 1200...
MY car has NO engine compression Braking...it is utterly UESLESS for me to do it, and yes I rev matched, has the smoothest downshifts I had in a while, but still, took me four times as long to slow down...(I had to apply the brakes to slow down, even with this Downshift Compression braking, used just as much brakes after the 10th try than I would just keeping it in gear and using the brakes, like the manual says...)
So I ask you again, If you are using your engine to compression brake, I want to see YOU do it in the same time it takes me to go from 55 to 0 using the brakes...
lol wtf?!?
Not trying to be an ass about it, but I tried it and it don't work on this ecotec 2.2 and getrag 5...and my fuel guage still reads out I'm using fuel (even after I reset it while in the gear and coasting)
Im sorry....where did i say anything about it braking just as fast as brakes?
I also never said you use it INSTEAD of brakes.
you use both.
and when you get it right, and know what your doing, you can basically drive barely using your brakes at all if you time things properly.
and btw, if your car has no compression braking.....theres something seriously fucked up with your car.
05-17-2007, 08:45 AM
#112
Senior Member
Im sorry....where did i say anything about it braking just as fast as brakes?
I also never said you use it INSTEAD of brakes.
you use both.
and when you get it right, and know what your doing, you can basically drive barely using your brakes at all if you time things properly.
and btw, if your car has no compression braking.....theres something seriously fucked up with your car.
I also never said you use it INSTEAD of brakes.
you use both.
and when you get it right, and know what your doing, you can basically drive barely using your brakes at all if you time things properly.
and btw, if your car has no compression braking.....theres something seriously fucked up with your car.
05-17-2007, 09:53 PM
#113
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Im sorry....where did i say anything about it braking just as fast as brakes?
I also never said you use it INSTEAD of brakes.
you use both.
and when you get it right, and know what your doing, you can basically drive barely using your brakes at all if you time things properly.
and btw, if your car has no compression braking.....theres something seriously fucked up with your car.
I also never said you use it INSTEAD of brakes.
you use both.
and when you get it right, and know what your doing, you can basically drive barely using your brakes at all if you time things properly.
and btw, if your car has no compression braking.....theres something seriously fucked up with your car.
So something is seriously fucked up with a BRAND new 2007 car that isn't throwing any codes and getting 32mpg city and 40mpg highway???
Sounds like it runs just fine to me...
And in all your posts you never said that you use your brakes too...I'm just stating that when I went out and tried what you all said, I still used just as much brakes as if I didn't downshift and rev match...Unless my clutch is pressed in and the car is out of gear, it takes for ever for this puppy to de-rev. Meaning when I'm in gear there is so much spinning inside that engine bay it acts as a gyro, it just keeps spinning, and Slowly de-revs, until I depress the clutch (which makes it in N even though it is in gear) then the RPMs drop like a rock...but in gear, it doesn't drop fast.
05-18-2007, 01:38 AM
#114
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So, I dug up my AAA drivers ed book, and here's what it says:
"When you bring a manual-shift vehicle to a stop from more than 30 mph, press the brake. When your speed safely matches the next lowest gear's shifting point, you should downshift into that gear. Continue to brake and downshif appropriately through the gears consecutively until you reach second gear. Smooth, full release of the clutch pedal upon completion of each shift is required to maintain control over acceleration, and to allow engine assistance in braking. To avoind stalling the engine, when you have slowed down to about 15 mph or less, press the clutch down and bring your vehicle to a stop. Check your vehicle's owner's manual for recommended shifting and downshifting speeds."
There you have it, a mix of both. Understanding, of course, everything is cool and nobody riding your ass, or no cars slamming on thier brakes.
Now, it says nothing after you fully stop for an extended amount of time; but I think most people move into neutral, anyway. While the speeds are a little off, a mix of both should keep you legal, and keep your car alive, lol. I stopped reading after the fifth page, so if I missed this, my bad.
"When you bring a manual-shift vehicle to a stop from more than 30 mph, press the brake. When your speed safely matches the next lowest gear's shifting point, you should downshift into that gear. Continue to brake and downshif appropriately through the gears consecutively until you reach second gear. Smooth, full release of the clutch pedal upon completion of each shift is required to maintain control over acceleration, and to allow engine assistance in braking. To avoind stalling the engine, when you have slowed down to about 15 mph or less, press the clutch down and bring your vehicle to a stop. Check your vehicle's owner's manual for recommended shifting and downshifting speeds."
There you have it, a mix of both. Understanding, of course, everything is cool and nobody riding your ass, or no cars slamming on thier brakes.
Now, it says nothing after you fully stop for an extended amount of time; but I think most people move into neutral, anyway. While the speeds are a little off, a mix of both should keep you legal, and keep your car alive, lol. I stopped reading after the fifth page, so if I missed this, my bad.
12-02-2007, 05:09 PM
#117
Been off for a while, but for some reason I cannot picture a car running off of momentum when just coasting in gear or downshifting...cause when I was in gear and cut my engine off (did this accidentally when I was reaching for my phone which I mounted on the dash trim by the key) the damn car bucked, and came to a skidding hault at 45mph!!! So, maybe it works on the 2.4 or 2.0, but the DFCO sure as hell don't work on a 2.2.
WOW, must be something I'm missing, but just to try out what all of you are saying about downshifting to slow the f'in car down...I went out and tried it on my way home tonight, took me three stoplights to get it right, but found out it takes me FOUR times longer to come to a stop than to gradually apply the brakes and leave the car in fith gear and pull it out of gear (without using the clutch) when the rpms hit 1200...
MY car has NO engine compression Braking...it is utterly UESLESS for me to do it, and yes I rev matched, has the smoothest downshifts I had in a while, but still, took me four times as long to slow down...(I had to apply the brakes to slow down, even with this Downshift Compression braking, used just as much brakes after the 10th try than I would just keeping it in gear and using the brakes, like the
manual says...)
So I ask you again, If you are using your engine to compression brake, I want to see YOU do it in the same time it takes me to go from 55 to 0 using the brakes...
Not trying to be an ass about it, but I tried it and it don't work on this ecotec 2.2 and getrag 5...and my fuel guage still reads out I'm using fuel (even after I reset it while in the gear and coasting)
WOW, must be something I'm missing, but just to try out what all of you are saying about downshifting to slow the f'in car down...I went out and tried it on my way home tonight, took me three stoplights to get it right, but found out it takes me FOUR times longer to come to a stop than to gradually apply the brakes and leave the car in fith gear and pull it out of gear (without using the clutch) when the rpms hit 1200...
MY car has NO engine compression Braking...it is utterly UESLESS for me to do it, and yes I rev matched, has the smoothest downshifts I had in a while, but still, took me four times as long to slow down...(I had to apply the brakes to slow down, even with this Downshift Compression braking, used just as much brakes after the 10th try than I would just keeping it in gear and using the brakes, like the
manual says...)
So I ask you again, If you are using your engine to compression brake, I want to see YOU do it in the same time it takes me to go from 55 to 0 using the brakes...
Not trying to be an ass about it, but I tried it and it don't work on this ecotec 2.2 and getrag 5...and my fuel guage still reads out I'm using fuel (even after I reset it while in the gear and coasting)
what you're missing is you're leaving it in 5th. the higher the gear, the less resistance. if you put it into 2nd you will slow down. i hardly every use the brakes, it's not rough on the clutch at ALL if you know how to downshift properly. downshifting is not some weird thing that only race car drivers know. if you don't know how to downshift you don't know how to drive a manual car. not saying this to be a dick, but it's elementary maual driving.
and of course it's not going to stop you as quickly as if you hit the brakes, that's rediculous. it's a combination of the 2 that you use when you have to brake hard. it's called looking ahead and making decisions. if you're at the point often where you have to slam the brakes from 55, again, you're doing something wrong.
12-02-2007, 05:12 PM
#119
putting the car in neutral while coasting to a stop is very unsafe. if something happens you can't hit the gas. unless you put it back into gear, and rev match it smoothly.
sorry guys, but the people that are putting it into neutral and coasting are bad manual drivers. you shouldn't put it into neutral untill you're almost stopped.
i'm guessing the people that neutral coast are the younger ones that don't have much driving experience, or never had someone teach them properly. everyone should know how to downshift at all speeds, rpms, etc. it's safe, easy on the brakes, easy on the clutch, and if you need to speed up again you're in gear and don't have to worry about putting it back and accelerating.
sorry guys, but the people that are putting it into neutral and coasting are bad manual drivers. you shouldn't put it into neutral untill you're almost stopped.
i'm guessing the people that neutral coast are the younger ones that don't have much driving experience, or never had someone teach them properly. everyone should know how to downshift at all speeds, rpms, etc. it's safe, easy on the brakes, easy on the clutch, and if you need to speed up again you're in gear and don't have to worry about putting it back and accelerating.
Last edited by D4u2s0t; 12-02-2007 at 05:13 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
12-02-2007, 05:20 PM
#121
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i always try to heal toe to match the rpm to the right gear while gently applying the breaks. i know a lot of you don't have this problem but with shitty frozen/icy winter roads i never want to be caught out of gear. i'm more worried about the idiot in his huge 4x4 behind me who thinks because he has 4x he can stop just as fast as he can go in the ice. down shifting is a great way to burn of speed, save your breaks, and a great way get the **** out of the way of the idiot behind you!
12-02-2007, 07:23 PM
#123
Kind of an old thread.
I have 42k miles on my factory brakes (with plenty of life left in them) because I downshift gradually when coming to a stop. I just feather my brakes.
The point isn't how fast you can stop, it's extending the life of your brakes, and being safe.
I have 42k miles on my factory brakes (with plenty of life left in them) because I downshift gradually when coming to a stop. I just feather my brakes.
The point isn't how fast you can stop, it's extending the life of your brakes, and being safe.
12-02-2007, 07:26 PM
#124
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I don't downshift, I leave it in the gear till it goes down to abour 1500rpm then leave in neutral till stop. I don't downshift cause it puts more wear on the clutch and drivetrain. The way I see it, I want the clutch to last as long as it can.
