Exedy Clutch/Flywheel installed, Reveiw
10-13-2007, 02:40 PM
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Exedy Clutch/Flywheel installed, Reveiw
Well guys, its finally done. Everything put back together and on all 4 tires. After two weekends of running into problems and trying to find the right tools its like a heaven sent dream to drive this machine. So, I wanted to make a little reveiw and talk about a few things. First I would like to thank cobaltss.net for all their help. 2K5SS/SC? gave me some awesome info and his suggestions helped me through alot of the problems and preventing alot of problems.
So...how does the clutch feel? First gear is the roughest but I only put about 100 miles on it so far. I can already feel it breaking in and shifts are very smooth. I have to be honest, I'm still amazed on the driveability. When everyone seen this 6 puck sprung clutch they kind of chuckled and said, "That looks like a all out drag clutch!" The pedal is not that much stiffer then stock. I also changed to 75w-90 Royal Purple Max Gear Oil. It did not even take two bottles to fill but just about. This stuff is AWESOME! So much better then stock. You can not even fill the car shift into the gears. No noise, no slippage. I don't see how it would even be possible to mis a gear with this new set up. The car does not rev up much faster even with the lighter flywheel. I was kind of expecting more, but that is a real plus not to rev to quickly. I also installed TTR Tranny mounts both front and back. I do get alot of vibration from the mounts but well worth it for the way this car feels now. The stage II Driveshop axles are holding up great and feel very strong. Once you strengthen a cobalt ss/sc drivetrain it is a entirly differant car.
Some tips on the install: This will take time to do it right, make sure you have a entire weekend if you never did this before on this exact car. Its differant then other cars.
1.) Bleeding the clutch: Do it the old fassion way, no special pumps were needed and it took me about 15-20mins to finish.
2.) These two tools will make your job easier, a E10 Inverted Torx Socket (to uninstall pressure plate/clutch) and a 16mm swival socket. (to uninstall the drivers side motor mount) <---not just a normal swival needs to be the socket.
3.) When installing the tranny back into the car make sure to remove the small dust plate or the tranny will not go in. Install this later, don't forget.
4.) We did this install on the floor and no lift. Would not do this again without one.
5.) Mark all bolts and nuts and parts in small bags, this was very helpful to us. We kept all the drivers side parts in special marked bags and kept them on that side. Did the same for the pass. side.
6.) When taking out the engine cradle having a extra hand helps. Its a large peice and 3 people will be able to handle it better then 2.
If you have any questions about this at all feel free to ask me. After doing this I feel confident in being able to do it again alot easier. First time was a bitch!
Again, thanks guys for all your help. Now I have to break this badboy in.
Future Plans: Install my 2.9 pulley, install my TTR Engine mount, install my JDM yellow fog lights, install dual pass, install CA H/E.
So...how does the clutch feel? First gear is the roughest but I only put about 100 miles on it so far. I can already feel it breaking in and shifts are very smooth. I have to be honest, I'm still amazed on the driveability. When everyone seen this 6 puck sprung clutch they kind of chuckled and said, "That looks like a all out drag clutch!" The pedal is not that much stiffer then stock. I also changed to 75w-90 Royal Purple Max Gear Oil. It did not even take two bottles to fill but just about. This stuff is AWESOME! So much better then stock. You can not even fill the car shift into the gears. No noise, no slippage. I don't see how it would even be possible to mis a gear with this new set up. The car does not rev up much faster even with the lighter flywheel. I was kind of expecting more, but that is a real plus not to rev to quickly. I also installed TTR Tranny mounts both front and back. I do get alot of vibration from the mounts but well worth it for the way this car feels now. The stage II Driveshop axles are holding up great and feel very strong. Once you strengthen a cobalt ss/sc drivetrain it is a entirly differant car.
Some tips on the install: This will take time to do it right, make sure you have a entire weekend if you never did this before on this exact car. Its differant then other cars.
1.) Bleeding the clutch: Do it the old fassion way, no special pumps were needed and it took me about 15-20mins to finish.
2.) These two tools will make your job easier, a E10 Inverted Torx Socket (to uninstall pressure plate/clutch) and a 16mm swival socket. (to uninstall the drivers side motor mount) <---not just a normal swival needs to be the socket.
3.) When installing the tranny back into the car make sure to remove the small dust plate or the tranny will not go in. Install this later, don't forget.
4.) We did this install on the floor and no lift. Would not do this again without one.
5.) Mark all bolts and nuts and parts in small bags, this was very helpful to us. We kept all the drivers side parts in special marked bags and kept them on that side. Did the same for the pass. side.
6.) When taking out the engine cradle having a extra hand helps. Its a large peice and 3 people will be able to handle it better then 2.
If you have any questions about this at all feel free to ask me. After doing this I feel confident in being able to do it again alot easier. First time was a bitch!
Again, thanks guys for all your help. Now I have to break this badboy in.
Future Plans: Install my 2.9 pulley, install my TTR Engine mount, install my JDM yellow fog lights, install dual pass, install CA H/E.
Last edited by R&C_rallySS; 10-13-2007 at 04:32 PM.
10-13-2007, 02:45 PM
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With the new flywheel do the revs come down any faster when you push in the clutch? The way the revs hang in between shifts and when trying to coast is the thing that ticks me off about the stocker.
10-13-2007, 02:56 PM
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The revs do seem to come down faster. Not sure if that is because the flywheel is lighter. Overall I would suggest to everyone on this site to buy the same clutch combo and switch to 75W-90 Max Gear oil in the tranny. If I lived in a larger city though then this clutch would not be a good choice. We will see once it breaks in all the way and I can beat on it a little bit. Can't do that for another 500+ miles. Going to let this break in perfectly. Revs do not hang in between shifts what so ever now.
10-13-2007, 03:00 PM
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what about ur slave cylinder, tob, pilot bearing and all that? Did u have to replace them or did u use the same parts I got mine is last week, waiting to be installed
10-13-2007, 03:03 PM
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glad you like the new clutch...
I had my slave cylinder/throwout bearing replaced when I did the clutch install and I think I need to replace it again. I have to check my mileage to see where I am too.
I had my slave cylinder/throwout bearing replaced when I did the clutch install and I think I need to replace it again. I have to check my mileage to see where I am too.
10-13-2007, 04:29 PM
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To answer your question you do not need to replace the slave cylinder. The truth of the matter is mine cleaned up real well. Every stock part I reused I cleaned and examined for wear. Slave cylinder was dirty but cleaned up well and no signs of wear. The flywheel bolts (bolts flywheel to crank) NEED to be replaced. There is 8 of them. I also replaced my throw out bearing which is alot differant then other cars. Its not a normal bearing setup. Its called (spelling?) a acualator. You do not need to replace this but I did since I was right there and had the new part. Mine did not look like it was worn out. No question is a bad question. Trust me its better to be safe then sorry. I do not see why so many people had problems with the slave cylinder. Its just a real tough job doing this clutch because of all the steps. If your going to do it allow a entire weekend if you never did it before on this car. Good luck.
10-13-2007, 09:20 PM
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I thought the throw out bearing and slave cylinder were in the same part. That part that connects by the clutch that has a green rubber boot. Which part is that..?
10-14-2007, 03:35 PM
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The part with a green rubber boot acts like a throw our bearing. Its that part that is called a acualator. Not sure If I spelled it correctly but thats what GM showed me on their advanced part list. It showd a diagram and how our clutch/tranny works. Was pretty cool. The tech said I should only have to replace the flywheel bolts and that "part with the green boot" aka acualator. Everything works perfect on the car. Since its so cold out though and the clutch needs to break in its kind of rough, first gear is the worst.
10-15-2007, 08:27 AM
#12
Well guys, its finally done. Everything put back together and on all 4 tires. After two weekends of running into problems and trying to find the right tools its like a heaven sent dream to drive this machine. So, I wanted to make a little reveiw and talk about a few things. First I would like to thank cobaltss.net for all their help. 2K5SS/SC? gave me some awesome info and his suggestions helped me through alot of the problems and preventing alot of problems.
So...how does the clutch feel? First gear is the roughest but I only put about 100 miles on it so far. I can already feel it breaking in and shifts are very smooth. I have to be honest, I'm still amazed on the driveability. When everyone seen this 6 puck sprung clutch they kind of chuckled and said, "That looks like a all out drag clutch!" The pedal is not that much stiffer then stock. I also changed to 75w-90 Royal Purple Max Gear Oil. It did not even take two bottles to fill but just about. This stuff is AWESOME! So much better then stock. You can not even fill the car shift into the gears. No noise, no slippage. I don't see how it would even be possible to mis a gear with this new set up. The car does not rev up much faster even with the lighter flywheel. I was kind of expecting more, but that is a real plus not to rev to quickly. I also installed TTR Tranny mounts both front and back. I do get alot of vibration from the mounts but well worth it for the way this car feels now. The stage II Driveshop axles are holding up great and feel very strong. Once you strengthen a cobalt ss/sc drivetrain it is a entirly differant car.
Some tips on the install: This will take time to do it right, make sure you have a entire weekend if you never did this before on this exact car. Its differant then other cars.
1.) Bleeding the clutch: Do it the old fassion way, no special pumps were needed and it took me about 15-20mins to finish.
2.) These two tools will make your job easier, a E10 Inverted Torx Socket (to uninstall pressure plate/clutch) and a 16mm swival socket. (to uninstall the drivers side motor mount) <---not just a normal swival needs to be the socket.
3.) When installing the tranny back into the car make sure to remove the small dust plate or the tranny will not go in. Install this later, don't forget.
4.) We did this install on the floor and no lift. Would not do this again without one.
5.) Mark all bolts and nuts and parts in small bags, this was very helpful to us. We kept all the drivers side parts in special marked bags and kept them on that side. Did the same for the pass. side.
6.) When taking out the engine cradle having a extra hand helps. Its a large peice and 3 people will be able to handle it better then 2.
If you have any questions about this at all feel free to ask me. After doing this I feel confident in being able to do it again alot easier. First time was a bitch!
Again, thanks guys for all your help. Now I have to break this badboy in.
Future Plans: Install my 2.9 pulley, install my TTR Engine mount, install my JDM yellow fog lights, install dual pass, install CA H/E.
So...how does the clutch feel? First gear is the roughest but I only put about 100 miles on it so far. I can already feel it breaking in and shifts are very smooth. I have to be honest, I'm still amazed on the driveability. When everyone seen this 6 puck sprung clutch they kind of chuckled and said, "That looks like a all out drag clutch!" The pedal is not that much stiffer then stock. I also changed to 75w-90 Royal Purple Max Gear Oil. It did not even take two bottles to fill but just about. This stuff is AWESOME! So much better then stock. You can not even fill the car shift into the gears. No noise, no slippage. I don't see how it would even be possible to mis a gear with this new set up. The car does not rev up much faster even with the lighter flywheel. I was kind of expecting more, but that is a real plus not to rev to quickly. I also installed TTR Tranny mounts both front and back. I do get alot of vibration from the mounts but well worth it for the way this car feels now. The stage II Driveshop axles are holding up great and feel very strong. Once you strengthen a cobalt ss/sc drivetrain it is a entirly differant car.
Some tips on the install: This will take time to do it right, make sure you have a entire weekend if you never did this before on this exact car. Its differant then other cars.
1.) Bleeding the clutch: Do it the old fassion way, no special pumps were needed and it took me about 15-20mins to finish.
2.) These two tools will make your job easier, a E10 Inverted Torx Socket (to uninstall pressure plate/clutch) and a 16mm swival socket. (to uninstall the drivers side motor mount) <---not just a normal swival needs to be the socket.
3.) When installing the tranny back into the car make sure to remove the small dust plate or the tranny will not go in. Install this later, don't forget.
4.) We did this install on the floor and no lift. Would not do this again without one.
5.) Mark all bolts and nuts and parts in small bags, this was very helpful to us. We kept all the drivers side parts in special marked bags and kept them on that side. Did the same for the pass. side.
6.) When taking out the engine cradle having a extra hand helps. Its a large peice and 3 people will be able to handle it better then 2.
If you have any questions about this at all feel free to ask me. After doing this I feel confident in being able to do it again alot easier. First time was a bitch!
Again, thanks guys for all your help. Now I have to break this badboy in.
Future Plans: Install my 2.9 pulley, install my TTR Engine mount, install my JDM yellow fog lights, install dual pass, install CA H/E.
Sounds like a GREAT setup!
10-15-2007, 09:10 AM
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^ I have to also thank TTR because I got my exedy set up from them. It took alot longer then I expected to get but it turned out my order got in a little later so all the ones they had in stock were already eing sent to other members on the site. They were very good at working with me and had one sent right from where they make them in order to save time. Thanks TTR!
10-15-2007, 09:19 AM
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No, all is good. I'm home sick today from work so I have nothing better to do then be on CSS.net 
When I drive out to the Dr. Office today to pick up my note I'll do some more driving but I don't want to be seen by anyone I know. That just would look bad you know being off from work. So far everything is great. The shift box and tranny shifts like butter. I can't even tell when it goes in gear it is that silky smooth. Now first gear is the only problem. The problem is not shifting but trying not to stall and pull out. I don't want to slip the clutch but I don't think its even possible to at this point. Hope that answers your question.
When I drive out to the Dr. Office today to pick up my note I'll do some more driving but I don't want to be seen by anyone I know. That just would look bad you know being off from work. So far everything is great. The shift box and tranny shifts like butter. I can't even tell when it goes in gear it is that silky smooth. Now first gear is the only problem. The problem is not shifting but trying not to stall and pull out. I don't want to slip the clutch but I don't think its even possible to at this point. Hope that answers your question.
10-15-2007, 09:13 PM
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Still driving strong. My dad wanted to see how it felt and he nearly missed third gear and was not even on it hard. I was like WTF DAD!!! Get out of the seat now HAHAHA.
10-16-2007, 08:49 AM
#21
There is no way a new clutch will cause your car not to start... is the ground cable hooked up from the battery...
Last edited by TurboTechRacing; 10-16-2007 at 08:49 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
10-26-2007, 01:06 AM
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yyo man check the wiring going to the starter...i believe you grounded the power wire getting that tranny bolt behind it. the power wire has a arm on it that can touch either the small wire or the case behind it, either way, not good. let me see if i can get a pic for you.
09-19-2008, 11:11 AM
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you guys ever think about maybe a clutch pedal switch? idk, jus throwin ideas out for ya. hard to diagnose, not being there and knowing the steps youve taken to replace everything.
09-19-2008, 04:11 PM
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im a little curious about the tranny oil he used. When i went to autoparts stores to get tranny fluid, they said i have to get it through gm because the oil the manual tranny's need is supposed to last the life of the tranny and that it takes a special fluid. They said you cant buy it off the shelf.