spaz

[QUOTE=silverss-s]my dealers tech guy said he was thinking of adding the ingalls as an optional upgrade for the car. not a bad idea. I called to ask about the staged kits and got dissapointed when he said that more power will more than likely ruin my clutch and if i get a better clutch it damage the flywheel and pressure plate. its a catch twenty two. then he said if the aftermarket clutch damaged anything it would not be covered on the extended warranty or otherwise and the stock clutch is only covered until 12,000 miles? sorry to get off subject but im scared to upgrade the car if it will not be covered in another 5000 miles when i paid for 75000 extended warranty. Will any of these options void the warranty is what i was trying to get at. Tell me what you guys think or know.[/QUOT\

the clutch can easily handle the stage 2 kit .clutches and brakes are not covered if they are worn out anyway regardless of if you upgrade the car or not. unless the hadraulics fail or the press plate breaks.that should be covered but if you burn the clutch out by riding it or explode the disk by dumping it this is abuse and i don't think they would cover it.But it may be different in the US.

BLKblurr06

I know thats why I said to use both, I, myself mainly want the ETD for more precise shifting and if it helps reduce any amount of wheel hop at all I'll be happy, but the bushings should work greatly to reduce wheel hop and come at little or no cost of refinement(vibrations)

BLKblurr06

RWD is better at controlling wheel hop because of weight transfer,although you're right about the FIRSuspension, upgrading the bushings greatly keeps it to the pavement, RWD does have the greater advantage than FWD in this area

1gmfanatik

Hence the reasoning towards lowering. With installing stiffer springs, there is less lift in the front of the vehicle leading to less weight transfer from front to rear. Which in turn would and should help slightly with traction considering you are eliminating a good portion of the airplane take-off type launch.

socalsilverRL

...another way to reduce wheel hop...
Get wheels with more sidewall...ie 16's with 225/50/16's

...or if you want to grind down your calipers (NOT RECOMENDED), 15's with larger tires...

Badmunky

Stage 2 will not damage your clutch. Read the how to on clutch slipping and you will be fine.

The EDT could tecnicly void your warranty. And all wear items are only covered for 12,000 miles and they are only covered if they fail do to manufacturer defects. And GM never covers that any way.

Hate to be the one to tell you but that extra warranty wont do you any good GM voids the warranty on this car if they even think you might have raced it one time. And they think every one races this car.

Upgrade all you want. As far as GM is concerned you dont have a warranty any way. To them your guilty untill proven other wise!.

Later

bojan

man i was thinking that gm would cover axsles.....this sucks

IngallsEng

Wow, I don't even know where to begin with this one...besides that, I'm responding to a dead thread revival. Anyway, the ETD kit we sell cannot and will not void your warranty. Read the Moss Act for starters. If you just accept a stealership saying you are blacklisted then you have no idea how much they are ripping you off. The Moss Act basically states that no warranty can be completely voided based on one modification. If you install a smaller pulley, you could expect that the powertrain warranty was shot (engine, clutch, transmission, axles, etc.). But if a strut failed, then it is on the dealership or GM to prove that the increase in power was directly responsible for that strut failing. Our ETD kit doesn't affect how much specific output the engine makes or how the suspension works, therefore I can't see them legally voiding a warranty. They might say that the decrease in engine movement would cause more stress to be placed on the clutch, but again they would be lying. The decrease in movement decreases the peak loads placed on the clutch, therefore reducing stress and wear.
BadMonky, I appreciate the effort you put into this write up, but find a few of your comments blatently incorrect. First, the ETD doesn't just decrease the movement of the engine it controls and limits it just like a solid mount. I think you are under the impression that we use a fluid or gas damper design. The elastomer we use in the ETD acts just like the polyurethane used in a solid mount, but with much better mechanical advantage (torque=forcexleverage arm lengthxcosine of theta). As for the NVH increase, the more firmly the engine is attached to the frame the more NVH you get (this also depends on the number of firm mounting locations). The Cobalt engine mounts are far too weak for the engine output, doubly so on the SC SSs. But, by making all the mounts solid, the NVH will be increased dramatically. Our damper uses one mounting point and therefore only transmits the added NVH from one solid mount. Adjusted properly I highly doubt our ETD (Engine Torque Damper, not EDT the security company) increases NVH more than two or more solid motor mounts. But, that is in my VBBHO (Very Biased, But Honest Opinion).
Dan

Killa SS

iTrader: (1)

This write up really helps me decide on what i want to do next with my SS/SC. Before any more performance, Im gonna do traction Mods. then performance and Clutch.

jon_0_3

would it be over kill to have mounts and edt on are car or would it just be pointless?

socalsilverRL

^if you have truely solid motor mounts...you dont need an ETD... but if you have the poly inserts, this will help.

PuSha050

if i remember correctly they dont nearly work as well on redlines as they do cobalts.. the reason why is forgotten but there was a difference in the suspension somewhere--i think

socalsilverRL

^prolly cause we have stamped steel a-arms, as you all have cast aluminum

jon_0_3

what would cause less fibration in a car polly mounts with edt or solid mounts and what would do the best for wheel hop

Mines_Better

I think a lot of you guys have some really shady dealers around your areas. I see all these posts about voiding this and voiding that, but it just simply is not true. I think I take the cake on warranty usage since I have had every single wire in the car replaced(no exagerration). I also have a my engine, supercharger and all, COMPLETELY REPLACED as well a the entire dash. I am now in the process of having one of my wheels replaced. I have over 33,000 miles on the car and have never had a single question asked about how i drive the car. They just find the problem and fix it... PERIOD! That is how it supposed to be done.
Not only are these dealers yall talk about lying to you, but they are breaking all kinds of laws by not honoring your warranties. All you have to do is stand up to them and not let them push you around. They talk their big talk just to intimidate you, but once they realize that you know what the hell you are talking about, they become your best friend.

I am getting my car custom tuned and I will be taking it to my dealer to get a case relearn done, no questions asked. Why? Because I know what my warranty states and I know what I need to say to them to get the work done. Do your homework and actually read through all of your information. It works wonders when you educate yourself.

sorry to hijack the thread, pretty good post BTW. very informative.

socalsilverRL

^now, based on your context, and how you type. Im assuming that you are much older than most of the members here. You dont think that could affect how the dealer treats you?

I have had many many problems at my dealer, and they have even gone as far as to cause $900 of damage to my rental car i returned to them, and steal things out of my car, harass me infront of the techs in the service bay, and send me threatening PM's throught this site and others.

so, just cause you didnt have problems, doesnt mean that other people arent, and that doesnt mean that you can discredit them. You just got lucky, or are "older" and they are intimidated by "older" people that could have the time and money to fight them on not upholding their warranty.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

the service manager at my dealer doesnt want to cover ware on my floor mats 4 months after purchase... lol i was getting pissed off and didnt want to talk to him any more. he offered to pay half and frankly thats not good enough for me. i will be having a talk with the general manager tomarrow

can you elaborate on that for a noob?

hubes

sorry to bring up an old post, but I just found it during a search. I have a 2.4 and am getting some wheel hop sometimes. I dont want to spend all kinds of money on overkill cuz im not planning on doing any heavy modding and I dont want too much vibration if it can be helped, this is my daily driver. does everything need to be replaced together? the way your post is set up it almost seems like you should replace the CABs first, then if thats not enough move on to tranny mounts and then an engine mount. is that the case? also, can you get CABs for the 2.4? thanks

socalsilverRL

^the suspension is the same for all slobalts... you can get CAB's... you'd prolly benefit from a Engine Torque dampner...if you dont want the vibes...they just put a LOT of strain on the stock mounts.

hubes

I didnt think you could put the ingalls dampener on the 2.2 or 2.4 because teh intake is in the way. Is there another one that will work?

socalsilverRL

^i wouldnt know, i have (had) a Saturn Ion Redline, Ive seen how they work tho. You might be able to get one to work...or if you have a CAI for the 2.2/2.4 already installed there is no box in the way...id PM a 2.4L persn that is more knowledgeable than myself.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

hey i was looking at the edt and frome what it looks like it utalizes the stock mounts but just helps out. So my question is could it be installed on something like the ZZP poly mounts? and would that even be woth while?