Bika

iTrader: (3)

Anyone use the LNF throw out bearing on this kit? I hear its much stronger. A buddy of mine is using it with his spec 2+...

qwikredline

Yes. Ur are not new and you must know this. The kit has the LNF tob, 10% more throw no green bootie, cheaper.
Yes, I put them on my own LSJ and tons of others.

Like 1/3rd the price of an LSJ, why not.

I figure you are just not surfing here enuf...its old nooze..
My tractor is a Honda. They dont make them anymore. sob. But its not a civic.....

Not to be rude but are you sure you seated the TOB lines double flared fitting in right and it seated properly, and is not cross threaded? EZ to do...FYI I put a little teflon tape on those threads coz I HATE TAKING THE DAMN TRANS OUT AGAIN

Its 8 hours if you are a champ 10 hours normally if you are careful. Dont chisel on the technician, get it done right. Quality is remembered long after price is forgotten.

ff_drift_lol

great price!
just wanna add after 1500 miles doesn't mean you can go beating the thing. you gotta progressively beat it...and then you can go to track day and run 2.0 60's all day. I made that mistake before. exedy claims 750 mile break in...so I go and launch a few times next thing I know 3 month old clutch glazed as a birthday cake.

Bika

iTrader: (3)

I'm a n00b when it comes to clutches...
I didn't see that on the site when i looked at the clutch. didnt know it used teh LNF TOB. I rarely surf the LSJ tech forum anymore due to lack of technical info and influx of idiots.

I must has this clutch

car_guy_09

Wasnt throw out bearing...guess it was the line itself so we had to order a new one....

Mr. Lou

[QUOTE=

Its 8 hours if you are a champ 10 hours normally if you are careful. Dont chisel on the technician, get it done right. Quality is remembered long after price is forgotten.[/QUOTE]


Yeah I have never done a job like this and I sure dont want to learn on my own.. so Ill be taking my car to a shop... all i need to do if bring this kit with me right?

qwikredline

yeppur assuming your flywheel is good and it should be; the stock clutch plate is generally fine as its the pressure plate which doesnt apply pressure any more is generally the problem

car_guy_09

Car is done after 2 weeks of being in the shop

Love this clutch... stiffer then stock, but not too stiff. I think its perfect myself. I only have 92 miles on it so far so i will post an update after i put some miles on it.. How long should i wait before i start beating on it? 500 miles?

Fidget

Thread revival... Tom do you still carry this? I do not see it listed on the website.

I am more interested in the components that are in the kit you provided since I had one which i lent to my friend to install since i didn't need it quite yet. They had some difficulties installing it and in the end put the an OEM clutch in.

I know i need the following replaced

The Clutch Pipe 24422067
The throw out bearing 12583857
Flywheel Bolt 11570626 (though i dont know how many from what i can tell 9 for an LSJ)
LSJ Pressure Plate Bolt 90470712 LSJ Pressure Plate Bolt 90470712 X6

Is there anything else i need?

Also is a fly wheel recommended? I have almost 194K miles on the car all original clutch parts.

Thanx in advance!

tonyss10r

Can you tell me how or where the clutch engages. I just had this installed on my 06 cobalt and now the clutch seems to engage basically 1/4 " above the floor and has very little play. Is this the way it should be or is something wrong, This just doesn't feel right to engage where it does. Oh, I also used a Fidanza fly wheel, not sure if that makes any difference. I expected it to be stiffer, but I figured I would have the same pedal travel or at least close.

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

Werd Fidget, 10xx million people by the GMPP clutch every day its on the CED website under clutches etc. details the number of bolts for the flywheel \(8) and yes a flywheel is recommended at your miles. If you further search you will find the kit comes with the pressure plate bolts along with the TOB. smh.
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/Clut...eels-C701.aspx

as for the new member with the Fidanza flywheel? why? I dont believe that you should blame the clutch for low release.

Fidget

Ya I bought the kit from a guy on OCC who was a GM mechanic so I knew that the parts that he gave me were right. The guy who installed it on his car rebuilds transmissions and he tried twice to put in the GMPP clutch and blew the actuator both times then decided to just go with an OEM kit.

My friend came over last night to drop of the clutch and the pressure plate which was ok but the throw out bearing was toast. He let me drive his car and when the car was in second and third the clutch didnt engage until it was at the top. I said that something was still wrong. I suspect that they did not bleed the clutch properly since when i opened the hood and checked the brake fluid reservoir it was almost at the top.

The good part is my friend is going to pay to replace the parts that they used.

tonyss10r

Maybe I wrote this unclear. My engagement point of my clutch starts at 1/4" (max) off the floor (I do mean down touching the rubber) not my release point. The release point is another inch higher than that. Then you are done. Then there is nothing the rest of the way to where the clutch normally sits. My stock clutch didn't start engaging until at least an inch above the floor then you had a decent amount of travel before it disengaged. Meaning it would be almost impossible to stop and then go on a hill with this clutch and I can not see it being designed that way.

Lets look at this in the reverse, when I put my foot down to change gears, it goes down to barely an inch, inch and half above the floor before my clutch starts to engage. I do not think it should ever have this much travel and I am interested in knowing what might have caused this

RedLined

+1 on making sure its bled properly. Makes a world of difference compared to one thats not. I have a fidanza flywheel as well so I know thats not whats causing your issues.

mysweetSS

Can this clutch be used on the LNF? If so, what extras would i need? Just hit 90K on my stock clutch.

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

its a stock lnf clutch

slapbetcommissioner

iTrader: (3)

Common misconception^
It's very similar but it's not the same. It will hold more torque then the stock Lnf and is still considered an upgrade. There has been side by side comparisons done on them and visually they are definitely different.

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

show the proof

footballplaya3k

iTrader: (1)

Use the search.

thatzthastuff

iTrader: (1)

fyi the clutch is back on the CED website again in case anyone was wanting one.

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

I did a pic of your fat ass showed up

footballplaya3k

iTrader: (1)

And I bet you couldn't stop touching yourself, huh.

mysweetSS

Do i need to get anything else to get the clutch to fit on the LNF?

mrbelvedere

iTrader: (3)

no

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

I beleive Tom has changed the kit to include a clutch centering tool, ( price goes up) and has detailed the warranty terms both on the site and when you purchase the clutch.

For my money, the stock LNF works great, and the only difference between the GMPP and the LNF is the clutch disc. Even that is very little different, I would suspect to deal with noise more than anything.

In ten years of dealing with Cobalts /delta on and off the track I have only once had a defective throw out bearing. The vast majority of failures are caused by faulty install. Props to one of my customers, called me for the the part number so he could replace it on a transmission I sent him " I wrecked it putting the trans in" he said.

An honest man.

For the F23 set you gotta alook at the Exedy stage 2 with flywheel its a pretty impressive stout piece....later I will post pictures. Its been a busy week so maybe on the weekend.