BlackSS/SC

I've been having so problems with my clutch or hydrallic system. Just wondering if anyone knows how to test the clutch master cylinder for issues. I'm not losing brake fluid and I've bleed the system to find there was no air and everything was ok.

mkulrey13

iTrader: (39)

prob the same problem ive been having. Have you installed a new clutch? my clutch's release point gets closer to the floor as i drive until i pump the **** of the pedal while in N then its back to normal for a bit before it repeats itself.

BlackSS/SC

I put a Exedy clutch in the car last year. I was stupid and didn't change the slave cylinder and the clutch wouldn't work to begin with and the slave leaked fluid in the bell housing. So I dropped the trans again and swapped slaves.

I went to the track this weekend and after the first run my clutch messed up. Slipping in 3rd gear at WOT. Can't get the car in gear if it's been idling in neutral with the clutch out. Have to shut it off and start it in gear then it's fine until it idles in neutral with the clutch out again. A few times the car was wanting to creep ahead with the clutch pushed in the whole way.

I have bleed the clutch again just to make sure there was no air, there wasn't any. I just want to elimiate everything I can before dropping the trans again. I think I'll need a new slave and clutch disc in the end.

AzulitoAlero

Have you had your flywheels resurfaced recently? If so, then they may have ground off too much and made it too thin, upsetting the hydraulics enough to make it seem like a leak.


Also (I was having this same problem) REPLACE THE MASTER CYLINDER WHEN YOU REPLACE THE SLAVE!!! The hydraulics will seem off until you do, especially so in these cobalts.


And when you bleed, be sure to do it properly and I recommend vacuum bleeding. When the previous owner of my car had it bled at another shop, they couldnt get it right at all. The clutch would be soft and engage waaayyy close to the floor. But when my dad did it at our shop (the proper way) it felt like a new car!

Also - do not overfill the DOT3 brake/clutch fluid.


Yall are forgetting that usually the Slave busts because of crap in the fluid, so that same crap is going to get to the Master as well.


Your welcome

BlackSS/SC

I have the Exedy clutch which clutch/disk/flywheel combo.

I find that the good old fasion bleeding worked best for me. I vaccum bleed it first and it didn't work very well for me. I've had it in the car for 10000kms.

Why do you say to replace the master? If there is no reason?

AzulitoAlero

Because by just replacing the slave, you are putting a brand new, higher functioning part in there. The Master is older, and will work on a slightly different level. And since its more aged, its faults will be even more pronounced. Its often that you will see a master cyl spring a leak after replacing the slave - its the new weakest link in the system.

At our shop, we nearly ALWAYS install the master and slave together even when only one fails. This prevents comebacks, because we have to warranty the repair, and chances are if you half-ass it then it will not function properly.


Also like as I said previously, something caused that slave to fail. Whether it was abusive driving or crap in the fluid, the master endured the same thing. You might as well replace the master while youre in there - its free labor on something you know is sure to fail soon after. Saves money, reduces downtime.

Its like replacing water pumps on most timing belt jobs - same philosophy.

2K5SS/SC?

I've briefed this over and over again if you do not replace the slave it WILL fail. It's not a matter of maybe, it's a matter of when. Unfortunately it needs to be taken out and replaced. I bet then you won't have any problems with the clutch slipping either. If it doesn't come back to a fully seated position it will partially engage the fingers and cause the pressure plate to not full clamp. Thus, the clutch will slip. I know it sucks, but it has to be done.

BlackSS/SC

I am swapping the slave for sure. Maybe not the master, not sure yet. Thinking about pulling it apart this weekend again and see what I can find in there. Clutch pedal is coming up the whole way. There is the normal small amount of play at the top of the pedal so I know the clutch is coming thw hole way up. No problem there.

So I'm going to replace the slave and master, found a good price at a dealer so I figured I might as well.

116Fanatic

So back to the original question of this thread...is there a way to test if its the master cylinder or the slave that has given out? Because if i'm going to replace the slave, I'm probably gonna do the whole clutch AND master...if its just the master its just the master.

Rangerondubz

So I need to make sure I change the clutch master cyl and not the brake master cyl?

TexasTieaga

Where can I find a clutch master? I'll replace it myself. If I do that and and my tranny still fails me I'll take it to a shop for the slave because I don't have the resources for a tranny drop (stupid fwd). And if I can also find a slave I won't have to pay for upsale. I would also like to know if there's a way to test the 2. I had a tranny rebuild less than a year ago w/exedy stage 1 clutch. It too releases right off the floor. You would think the 2 would be replaced. But since my old 3rd gear tore apart EVERYTHING in the tranny I would like to believe the slave was replaced? I don't have a lot of money with this steady car payment so I need to cut corners as much as possible.