soccer1061287

Dan, PM me with your phone number. We may be able to help each other. I have a pole building that I work out of and I see you are in Fenton. Maybe we could work something out where you help me finish mine up and then we do yours. Even if not, you got a good deal for $200 labor for this swap, cause there is no way I would do it for less than $500. I would not anticipate that CM will cover your consequential expense of the labor, but they surprised me with the speed at which they hopped on this problem and reacted to the customer. They shipped mine overnight with saturday delivery, a double cost hit.

soccer1061287

If I had responsibility or control over any of this, we would have a clutch that will at least survive abuse in the stock engine. I have made some good contacts in the high performance vehicle group and have spoken with the chief engineer about the bad press that GM is getting on the overall clutch issue through the forums. Don't confuse the issue here. I do not see a slave cylinder issue. We as a company did a crappy job telling the dealers how to effectively bleed the system, but the slave cylinder does an excellent job of providing the design intent level of pressure plate finger travel given the design intent loads. As pressure plate finger loads increase and cylinder travel requirements change with any different clutch than the stock, the slave may or may not be correct for that application. That is why I have personally asked CM on more than one ocassion if the required pressure plate finger travels and loads are the same as stock and they have repeatedly confirmed that they are. That is why the slave cylinder you receive with the kit IS the GM slave.

SS4LIfe

any help on bleeding i really don't want to tow my car to the dealer thats a extra $80 towing and then dealer charge for the labor

soccer1061287

Go to any decent auto part store and purchase a Mighty Vac for around $40. Go to the hardware and purchase a large rubber stopper, a barbed fitting to fit the Mighty Vac hose and a clamp to clamp the hose to the fitting. Take the brake master cylinder cap off and put the stopper on in its place. Pump the vacuum to about 25-27. Get in the car and vigorously pump the clutch pedal 20 to 30 times. you should note bubbles (good size) coming up through the fluid that has been sucked into the vac pump hose. Make sure that you use the catch can that comes with the mighty vac, so you do not get fluid on the pump seals. You will need to repeat the pumping of the clutch pedal a number of times to get all of the air out. Pressure bleeding will not get the air out of the slave cylinder since it is 2-3 inches below the bleeder. Be patient and you will get it all.

SS4LIfe

i think i get what you are saying but i guess i need to go look at the vacuum to really get it.

is the mighty vac a vacuum for cleaning the car or for bleeding brakes, what about one of those brake bleeding kits, because the resovior has a nipple on the top of the resovior that i can attach a hose too without getting a cap for the resovior.

CobaltSS313

no im pretty sure you need a mighty vac but i could be wrong

djt81185

Well I come home to pittsburgh in 4 days and wont be back up for 4 months...thanks tho. PLus they are shipping my clutch to PA and I have to be at work their monday. I did the clutch with a coupon that is why I got such a nice price. CM said they wont cover the cost already.

Dan

xskier874

i know how they are brought my car in monday and they said it would be done for the weekend 2 weeks later i finally drove it out of there... and no prob bout the ride prob would of let you drive it if you asked. anyways nice meetin you and some of your buddies they got some nice cars ill have to roll with you sometime when you get your car back

and im trying to decide ingalls or b@M? only got the money for one right now

2K5SS/SC?

Ok, I'm officially done! The clutch will not disengage! Tried the roll thing with the clutch to the floor and the car drives off. The clutch has been vacuum bled by GM, and vacuum bled by myself, and still it doesn't diengage. I'm putting the car back to stock, and after I close on my house it's going to be traded in.

Oh, and by the way the door has to be repainted because the dealerships new lifts don't have rubber protectors over a certain piece, and now there is continuous scratch about 1" wide by 4-5" long on my drivers side door! I officially hate this car, and I refuse to by another GM product.

djt81185

Is this with the new one clutchmasters sent you? If so...fanfuckingtastic...

Dan

soccer1061287

2K5SS/SC, have you talked to Lonnie about this yet? I spoke with him today and from what I can tell, the clutch should disengage. I need more data. I was going to complete my install on thursday, but now I am up in the air with the decision. I am thinking of using the kevlar disc and the stock pressure plate. That way I get some of the benefit of the kit.

SS4LIfe

when i called the dealer they told me not to bleed it that way, it has to be bleed though the resovior i might tow mine to the dealer tomorrow to have them bleed it though the resovior.

SS4LIfe

how come we can't use the resovior cap is it because it doesn't seal completly.

i just went and look i see why.

oki take two peices of rubber plug the resovior and the vacuum, then connect the two with the barbes and tubing and pump the clutch is that right.

or do i hook the tube from the vacuum to the bleeder screw

djt81185

bleeding thru the resivour is vacuum bleeding

Dan

I had mine vacuum bleeded and it didnt make a difference

SS4LIfe

are u having clutch problem, or how did u bleed it

2K5SS/SC?

This is the new clutch, the system was properly vacuum bled multiple times, and it's still a no go. As soon as I call Lonnie and see if I can get my money back, the stock clutch is going back in and my exhaust, intake, Ingalls TD, and B&M are going to be for sale.

soccer1061287

Ok, the information that I am getting is coming directly from the clutch development engineers at GM who are doing these swaps on a daily basis for testing. SS4LIfe, let me clarify. You need one stopper whose large end will seal the reservoir. Drill a hole through it and insert the barbed fitting and clamp the tube to the vac pump to it. That tube goes to the catch can that came with the mighty vac. The other tube goes from the catch can to the hand pump of the mighty vac. No need to hook up to the car in more than one place. If this does not work it is not because of the the process, it is because there is something else wrong. Now I will say that vacuum bleeding will get 95% of the air out. The rest will self bleed over the next day or so, but the car should be very useable from vacuum bleeding. It is important to note that you litterally have to pump the hell out of the pedal and dont forget that when you are done you need to pump clutch and brakes back up, because neither will work immediately. I will try and get a digital for you later today.

Mike

SS4LIfe

that would be great

djt81185

We didnt use a stopper but we held a consistent 27inhg in the system...I'm having the same problems described in this thread...I don't have the money to keep having to install new "fixes" as they come out...as it is I'm already having to eat the cost of one install...and I can't keep doing that as a college student. And seeing that the fix did nothing for silversc im not too optimistic.

Dan

2K5SS/SC?

I used the barbed fitting in the rubber stopper and my mityvac to vacuum bleed the system. It still doesn't work.

djt81185

let me do some checking today....there may be another fix ive been hearing


Dan

if u have aim im me at djt81185

soccer1061287

OK, how do I insert a photo that is on my hard drive and not out on the web? Between us handfull of guys that are working this problem, we should share phone numbers, so 2k5SS/SC, djt81185 and SS4LIfe, I am going to pm you my home and cell numbers so we can talk real time on this. Right now, based on what I have been hearing, I am inclined to put the kevlar disc in with my stock pressure plate, cause I am 100% convinced the problem is in the pressure plate. The only reservation that I have with doing that is if the stock plate will give adequate clamp to the kevlar disc. My guess is yes.

I have a picture of the mighty vac setup that I am going to put in my Vb Garage so you can view it.

Mike

soccer1061287

I just got off the phone with Lonnie. I am going to bolt my trans to the engine and bleed the system. Then with the help of an assistant, I will look through the inspection hole while my helper cycles the clutch. I will be looking to see that the disc is releasing away from the pressure plate. I will give an update in an hour or two.

max_boost

I understand that a lot of people are having issues but it seems to only be with the CM clutches. I've had the Spec 3+ for about 3 months and do not have any of the issues that you guys describe. That leads me to belive that it isn't the car that is causing the issue.

I tried to call the shop that installed my clutch and ask them how the bleed my system to see if they did anything different but nobody answered. I'll try calling back later.

2K5SS/SC?

I don't think it's a bleed issue either. The first clutch kit released fine, but rubbed the bellhousing. The second pressure plate doesn't rub the bellhousing, but it will not disengage. I would have got the Spec one, but I was told they have problems. I went a purchased the CM FX300, and I have more problems than the people with the Spec ones. I'm at the point where I just don't want to deal with the car anymore.