05redlined

what all are we supposed to get in the cm package? i got a pp, clutch disk, and something thats green and compresses, and the alignment dowel. did i miss something?

djt81185

Ok I dont have the correct alignment dial and I go no new slave cylinder with the new one but that was becaue they are one backorder. We spent like 3 hrs trying to get the damned tranny to line up and go back in but it wont. Any pointers on getting it back on and installed? Getting it back on is what is holding us back.

Thanks,

Dan

vandy0419

How long is it averaging to do the install when you guys are having it professionally done?

SS_SC_Cobalt

that is supposed to be the good one!

SS4LIfe

i know thats why i took it to the dealership to be bleed because i must be doing something wrong.

they are going to charge two hours labor to do it and they are not saying its going to slove the problem

SS4LIfe

The labor hours are 6.7 for a shop to do it, like a dealership or somewhere like pep boys

vandy0419

Hey Dan (djt81185), how long did it take you and Rob? I think without the excessive bleeding you said it was only like 3 or 3.5 hours, right?

soccer1061287

djt81185 - If you don't have the trans back in yet, try this. First off, you must get the right angle to view from. You must be looking straight down the centerline of the crankshaft. Then you can manually align the disc and tighten the pressure plate. another option is to take a broom stick (quit laughing) and cut it to about a foot long. Then take electrical tape and build up the diameter of the end to match the pilot hole in the end of the crank. Then using the tape again, build up the diameter where it goes through the clutch hub to match the spline ID. I guess you could also go to the local auto parts and try and purchase the correct one or a universal set.

Vandy - You can do this job in the garage using jackstands in about 8 hours from start to finish. If you have a hoist available and a helper, you can easily cut 3 hours out of that time. A good dealer should be able to do the job in 3 hours. 6.7 hours is a rip. I have seen the technicians here at Milford Proving Grounds pull the trans in 45 min and not look like they are rushing.

Now for an update on my saga. I talked with the performance integration guys here at Milford Proving Grounds about my problem with the hydraulic system that will not hold pressure. To make a long story short, I knocked of the little rubber "hat" that sits on top of the plastic fitting at the trans.. Did not know where it went and basically forgot about it. Bottom line is I did not need to take the trans out this last time. Oh well, a good kick in the ass is necessary sometimes. I just wish I could get the ass kicking machine to shut off. Anyway, I will finish it this afternoon so I can drive it tonight.


Update

06black

let us know how this works!!!

djt81185

we got it pretty well aligned from using a socket. my question is how to ge t hte damned tranny back on? should i have it in neutral or in a gear? will it slide right in if its correct?
any hints on holding that spacer on? That kind of stuff I swear we fought witih it for 3 hrs last night and it refused to go on. What were u saying about having to clean up the splines?

also the ring around my axel is bent making it not perfectly round...no idea how that happened tho...will it hurt anything?

Dan

soccer1061287

Dan - The clutch needs to be within 1-2 mm of precise alignment to get the trans back in. There are a number of factors that must be correct for the trans to slip in. First and formost, the disc must be in the right spot relative to the pilot on the crank. Second, the splines in the disc must be lined up with the splines on the input shaft of the trans. And third, the input shaft of the trans MUST be on the same axis as the centerline of crank. When all of those things occur at the same moment that a force is pushing the trans toward the engine, it will suck right in. Yes, I connect the driver side axle and put the trans in gear so that I can rotate the input shaft (you can generally feel when the splines are in alignment). As far as getting the trans and engine on the same centerline, I use my finger to measure the gap at the top and bottom and both sides. Then you know what needs to be done to align the two axis. Once I think I have everything lined up, I put two feet on the trans and push/wiggle. It generally will pop right in with this high tech patented method. It also helps if you start at least two of the bolts, but 3 is best.

You said something about the ring around your axle. I am going to guess that you are talking about the metal frame of the oil seal. If it is not dented severely, it will likely be ok, but if it is grossly deformed, just replace it. They are cheap. Finding one would be the hard part. If in doubt, just put it back together and if it leaks, you can replace it. Not like having to pull the trans or anything.

djt81185

were going to try a lil more this weekend/week..if it doesnt work its going to a trans shop...i got quoted 400 to finish it completely

Dan

SS4LIfe

how will you get it there if you have the trans out. it only has one engine mount on.

WSFrazier

Trying to get that tranny in was a bitch the other night. I hope Dave's brother/dad can help so you don't gotta fork out that 400 dollars.

soccer1061287

Well, got the seal on and situation is better, but unless there is a massive amount of air in the system, I must have a secondary leak. I may have pinched the line from the trans to the master cylinder, so I am going to buy a new one if I cant get the system to bleed properly after sitting overnight. The polyurethane roll restrictors that I made work like a charm to stabilize the engine, but there is idle vibration transmitted into the passenger compartment. Good news is I heard today the GM is coming out with a set of mounts that will control wheel hop AND give good isolation from vibration. Also, GM is coming out with a set of axles that will work with the roll restrictors to totally kill wheel hop. The axles are current production Saab axles, but you have to buy a different hub because the splines are different.

soccer1061287

Hey djt81185 - Stick with it. Just when your ready to smack it with a hammer and rename the car some colorful 4 letter words, that trans will slip right in. Don't let it beat you.

WSFrazier

Lmao, the 4 letter words have already been slipping, and then some. Least him doing this on his redline will give us an idea on when me or another cobalt needs a new clutch.

2K5SS/SC?

Well, I have the latest clutch at the house, and the car back in my possession. I'm going to give her one last go tomorrow, so I don't have to pay the dealership another $705 since I originally thought the squealing noise was the same problem before the 1.0 version clutch was installed. I'll keep everyone posted on how it goes. I really need it to work out this time because I cannot afford to be screwing around with the car anymore right now. I'll be praying to the car gods tonight for a smooth installation, and a working clutch finally! Third times a charm right!

05redlined

my pressure plate actually says canada in a half circle with a D in the middle of it.... thats the korrekt one right? the guys at CM said it was. just verifying.

SS_SC_Cobalt

yes anything saying canada or of the sort and not LUK

2K5SS/SC?

Well, I confirmed I have the latest clutch kit. My buddy fell through on the install this weekend, so I'm going to try for someday this week. Hell what's a few more days at this point anyhow!

CobaltSS313

just got back from my 400 mile trip and the car runs fine no tranny problems what so ever. Hope everyone is coming along with their clutches and that everything goes well. Just letting everyone know im fine.

06black

wooo hoooooooooo!!!!!!

hows it feel?

CobaltSS313

it feels great, im suppose to take it up to the track on wednesday if the weather is nice.

soccer1061287

2K5SS/SC - I feel your pain man. Mine has been down 2.5 weeks with 4 trans pulls, working with CM to resolve this. I am excited and happy on one hand that the ones that are done are right, but I am knocking on the door of finishing mine and there is that last PIA detail of my hydraulic leak. I have taken care of the one leak where I left that hat seal out of the aluminum junction block where the hydraulic line goes into the trans, but have some secondary leak that is just driving me crazy. I did build pressure and was able to drive the car yesterday for a bit, and with all of the upgrades, it runs like a raped ape. When I am able to build pressure, it leaks like alot. For those of you who did the swap yourselves, did the aluminum block where the line goes into the trans have to be pushed down and then click in place? Mine does not seem to want to click in. I am so frustrated, that I am about ready to have one of the technicians at work finish it. And if you knew how much of a cheapskate I am, you would know what level of frustration I am at. Also, when I took the car out, I was getting 4 codes. Brought it back and found that I had pinched one of the O2 sensor wires under the rear roll restrictor. Fixed that and replaced a fuse, and all codes went away and the engine idled much smoother.