Replaced blown LNF clutch with GMPP clutch from CED
02-26-2013, 01:04 AM
#1
Replaced blown LNF clutch with GMPP clutch from CED
Will let the pictures speak for themselves
Old (clutch shredded to pieces down to the bare metal, pressure plate is blue from the heat) LNF clutch:
New GMPP clutch from CED:
Now going through a break in process...
Old (clutch shredded to pieces down to the bare metal, pressure plate is blue from the heat) LNF clutch:
New GMPP clutch from CED:
Now going through a break in process...
03-02-2013, 09:49 AM
#8
You should bed it in like you would brakes or anything else that uses a friction material on metal surface. The better you bed it in and apply friction material into the plate the better it will work. I'd give it a couple of heat cycles and some easy to moderate driving to get the pores open and materiel embedded in them, then drive it like you stole it once it's nicely bedded in. Don't need to baby it but don't get after it too hard for a couple heat cycles then good to go.
Think of it this way, a race track holds better once it's been rubbered in, right? The rubber tires stick better to its own material than the track. Same effect occurs with brake rotors and pressure plates. Bed them in and they work better because the friction material sticks better to itself then the actual plate or brake rotor. Once brakes are bedded in they stop much better, and once a clutch is bedded it it holds more torque.
Do it properly when the clutch is new and it'll work better.
Think of it this way, a race track holds better once it's been rubbered in, right? The rubber tires stick better to its own material than the track. Same effect occurs with brake rotors and pressure plates. Bed them in and they work better because the friction material sticks better to itself then the actual plate or brake rotor. Once brakes are bedded in they stop much better, and once a clutch is bedded it it holds more torque.
Do it properly when the clutch is new and it'll work better.
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DeanSsspsh (08-16-2019)
03-02-2013, 11:13 PM
#10
, and the guy before me most likely didn't know how to drive it, neither did his wife. 
Either way, thank you for the pointers, your input is always appreciated.
You should bed it in like you would brakes or anything else that uses a friction material on metal surface. The better you bed it in and apply friction material into the plate the better it will work. I'd give it a couple of heat cycles and some easy to moderate driving to get the pores open and materiel embedded in them, then drive it like you stole it once it's nicely bedded in. Don't need to baby it but don't get after it too hard for a couple heat cycles then good to go.
Think of it this way, a race track holds better once it's been rubbered in, right? The rubber tires stick better to its own material than the track. Same effect occurs with brake rotors and pressure plates. Bed them in and they work better because the friction material sticks better to itself then the actual plate or brake rotor. Once brakes are bedded in they stop much better, and once a clutch is bedded it it holds more torque.
Do it properly when the clutch is new and it'll work better.
Think of it this way, a race track holds better once it's been rubbered in, right? The rubber tires stick better to its own material than the track. Same effect occurs with brake rotors and pressure plates. Bed them in and they work better because the friction material sticks better to itself then the actual plate or brake rotor. Once brakes are bedded in they stop much better, and once a clutch is bedded it it holds more torque.
Do it properly when the clutch is new and it'll work better.
03-02-2013, 11:30 PM
#12
About 58K. And I will say it again... if it wasn't for my wife using it as "training wheels", it would probably still be good for another 10-20K at least. 
But what's done is done. Clutch is replaced. She doesn't want to drive manual again. Moving on with life.
But what's done is done. Clutch is replaced. She doesn't want to drive manual again. Moving on with life.
03-02-2013, 11:56 PM
#14
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Ill most likly grab this clutch when its time, im asking because i have about 55kms on mine, an she took a beating, it was stalled on a dyno with the dyno brake on, they payed for it tho, clutch got real glazed an sliped for a few days now its fine,
03-03-2013, 03:47 AM
#15
Many people stood by this clutch, so I decided to go with it. I was deciding between this and a KY stage 3, but decided to keep my clutch as the weakest point between engine and the tranny...
I've only had it for a week, but I would recommend it. Can't go wrong with GMPP stuff... This clutch is originally made in Germany for Saab (iirc, same motor, heavier car, so should hold down torque well)...
03-03-2013, 11:45 AM
#18
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I'm heavily debating whether to go with this or clutchmasters stage 4. Don't mind spending the extra 200 for the CM, just wanna make sure to do it right the first time so it lasts me a while.
03-03-2013, 03:09 PM
#20
You'll need both the kit and 6 (six) LNF pressure plate bolts from the second link (GMPP clutch only comes with LSJ bolts):
Ecotec LSJ Clutch Upgrade Kit 19212712
LNF Pressure Plate Bolt 11570368
Yes. After reading a few threads on it it seemed like a very good choice for my application.. Even though it's rated at 300, people seem to have them running with up to 400 TQ iirc. John from Powell Race Parts has installed many of these.
GMPP clutch, while having a higher holding capacity, behaves as a stock clutch. With most of higher capacity clutches you will have different pedal feel and clutch chatter. If you resell the car, to many people in general public an aftermarket clutch takes a bit of getting used to.
Also, if you get a clutch that can hold more than your transmission... you see what's next there.
Resurfaced. It was still good at 58K.
Ecotec LSJ Clutch Upgrade Kit 19212712
LNF Pressure Plate Bolt 11570368
Yes. After reading a few threads on it it seemed like a very good choice for my application.. Even though it's rated at 300, people seem to have them running with up to 400 TQ iirc. John from Powell Race Parts has installed many of these.
Also, if you get a clutch that can hold more than your transmission... you see what's next there.
Resurfaced. It was still good at 58K.
03-03-2013, 03:15 PM
#22
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That's what I have, but I'm waiting for install. It may be awhile. What's the break in process? 500 city miles, stop and go or is there more to it than that?
03-03-2013, 03:20 PM
#24
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I thought the GMPP clutch was the LNF clutch. So this is an upgrade from stock but only slightly? The stock and this are different numbers ? If they are different I had no idea.
03-03-2013, 03:23 PM
#25
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From what I understand they use some same parts, but the whole is greater than the sum of it's parts. Meaning it holds more than advertised and some things are the same, but ultimately it's not identical