Is Royal Purple worth it??
#1
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Is Royal Purple worth it??
I know Royal Purple is like $7.00 a quart but is it worth it? I heard it can add like 3 more mpg and it is better on your parts.
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I think that a lot of the royal purple popularity came from a few things. First, an aggressive marketing campaign in motor-sports, particularly drag racing. Two, on the TV show "Horsepower TV" they did a dyno test with a Mustang, baseline, and then swapped engine oil, tranny fluid, and rear-end fluid to royal purple. The result was something like a 9hp gain. Things to learn from that? Yes, swapping out all fluids, especially in a RWD car, will reduce some parasitic loss and free up some power, but who knows how old the fluids in the car were to start with? With that being said, when I had my Talon TSi AWD, I swapped everything over to royal purple and did not feel a noticeable difference, but I already ran full synthetic oil in. Switching from mineral oil to synthetic, again, will net positive results, as it did on the TV show. All in all I think it comes down to personal preference. Check out amsoil, it actually has been shown to hold up the best of all synthetic oils.
#10
Castrol 10w-30 (Its HOT here) Full Syn in the motor; my 93 accord went 352,000 miles and was still running strong was an attestament.
Royal Purple ATF in my F23 Manual Trans, shifting into Second gear doesnt feel like I'm crushing eggs anymore.
Brands aside, Synthetics = Better for longevity.
Royal Purple ATF in my F23 Manual Trans, shifting into Second gear doesnt feel like I'm crushing eggs anymore.
Brands aside, Synthetics = Better for longevity.
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I use royal purple all the time on my car because i get it for four dollars a quart with my employee discount. I cant really tell if there was a difference between that and the mobil 1.
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On what is this based?? I hear ads for Amsoil all the time saying how it's better than the leading synthetic (Mobil1). Like stated above, I want an oil I can buy just about anywhere. Regardless of what they state about the interval b/n changes and how many miles its guaranteed, I always change my oil when the OLI (Oil Life Index) gets close to 0%, which usually occurs b/n 7,000 and 7,500 miles.
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i tryed all those oils and beleive it or not guys i felt a diffrence from Quaker State Advance...non of the other oils actually made a diffrence,so i tryed this and wow...i was surprised..this is from there website...
Q High RPM Synthetic Blend
Muscular V8 or turbo power 4-cylinder engines generate more heat and high rpms that can rob an engine of power and wear down conventional oils. The Q High RPM Synthetic Blend is specially formulated to maximize the performance and power of a high output engine. As rpms run high, the heat-activated additives are released providing a low-friction, heat resistant lubrication film. This advanced protective film helps reduce the co-efficient of friction, preventing oil shearing and resisting thermal breakdown even under high rpm conditions. The Q High RPM Synthetic Blend is available in ILSAC GF-4 grades including SAE 5W-30 and 10W-30.
Q Advanced Engine Full Synthetic
Today's technologically advanced engines generate more power per displacement than ever before, and that means more heat. This heat, combined with the shearing forces of high rpms and friction, can rob the engine of power. The new Q Advanced Engine Full Synthetic with unique heat-activated additives is specially formulated to maximize the performance and power of today's modern engines. When friction and heat are most severe, the heat-activated molecules in Q are unleashed to provide a low-friction, ultra-heat resistant lubrication film that results in maximum protection and power. Q Advanced Engine Full Synthetic is available in SAE 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 5W-50 grades and a European Formulation designed specifically for vehicles with extreme lubrication requirements.
Q High RPM Synthetic Blend
Muscular V8 or turbo power 4-cylinder engines generate more heat and high rpms that can rob an engine of power and wear down conventional oils. The Q High RPM Synthetic Blend is specially formulated to maximize the performance and power of a high output engine. As rpms run high, the heat-activated additives are released providing a low-friction, heat resistant lubrication film. This advanced protective film helps reduce the co-efficient of friction, preventing oil shearing and resisting thermal breakdown even under high rpm conditions. The Q High RPM Synthetic Blend is available in ILSAC GF-4 grades including SAE 5W-30 and 10W-30.
Q Advanced Engine Full Synthetic
Today's technologically advanced engines generate more power per displacement than ever before, and that means more heat. This heat, combined with the shearing forces of high rpms and friction, can rob the engine of power. The new Q Advanced Engine Full Synthetic with unique heat-activated additives is specially formulated to maximize the performance and power of today's modern engines. When friction and heat are most severe, the heat-activated molecules in Q are unleashed to provide a low-friction, ultra-heat resistant lubrication film that results in maximum protection and power. Q Advanced Engine Full Synthetic is available in SAE 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 5W-50 grades and a European Formulation designed specifically for vehicles with extreme lubrication requirements.
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I was in the oil changing business for 3.5 years; we didn't stock any Quaker State oils. In 3.5 years we had only 3 people ask for it and 2 people that brought it with them. We don't like it around here.
I also know a guy that had his engine rebuilt and they mechanice asked what oil he was using. He told the mechanic that he used Castrol 10W-30 and changed it every 3,000 miles. Mechanic says to him that he's been rebuilding engines for like forever and has never seen one that looked so bad inside and would never again use Castrol.
I also know a guy that had his engine rebuilt and they mechanice asked what oil he was using. He told the mechanic that he used Castrol 10W-30 and changed it every 3,000 miles. Mechanic says to him that he's been rebuilding engines for like forever and has never seen one that looked so bad inside and would never again use Castrol.
#20
InfinityzeN - The normal Amsoil last about 12k miles between changes. Their good stuff about 25k.
Between; viscous breakdown, heat cycling, moisture contraction of heating and cooling parts, and the variable of ambient tempratures ie. thick when its cold thin when its hot. Using the same weight oil regardless for 12 to 25 thousand miles.
Yea ok.... the advertising machine works again.
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InfinityZen is correct, however, he did not mention that to go that long between changes, a high quality, extended period filter is a must, as this is where most oil change intervals are necessary. Not because of viscosity breakdown, but because of filter breakdown. Most oils, synthetic or not, have been shown to actually improve in their thermal capabilities over time.
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From the Amsoil website.
And before any decide to be a smart ass again, do some research of your own. Amsoil long life has consistently been shown to have the longest life of any synthetic oil on the market. One example, independent testing of Amsoil long life oil with high performance filters for 50k miles in New York city cabs. Stop and go driving is one of the most stressful things you can do to a car. The engines with Amsoil had less wear and tear then all the engines of the control group cars with natural oils changed every 3k miles and synthetic oils changed every 5k miles.
In the SS/SC, their long life should easily last you 10~12k miles. Hell, normal synthetic can easily last 5~6k miles. Just make sure you don't get cheap filters. High grade filters, especially with rare earth magnet bands (pulls the small metal bits out of the oil) will greatly extend the time between oil changes.
And before any decide to be a smart ass again, do some research of your own. Amsoil long life has consistently been shown to have the longest life of any synthetic oil on the market. One example, independent testing of Amsoil long life oil with high performance filters for 50k miles in New York city cabs. Stop and go driving is one of the most stressful things you can do to a car. The engines with Amsoil had less wear and tear then all the engines of the control group cars with natural oils changed every 3k miles and synthetic oils changed every 5k miles.
In the SS/SC, their long life should easily last you 10~12k miles. Hell, normal synthetic can easily last 5~6k miles. Just make sure you don't get cheap filters. High grade filters, especially with rare earth magnet bands (pulls the small metal bits out of the oil) will greatly extend the time between oil changes.
#24
In the SS/SC, their long life should easily last you 10~12k miles. Hell, normal synthetic can easily last 5~6k miles. Just make sure you don't get cheap filters. High grade filters, especially with rare earth magnet bands (pulls the small metal bits out of the oil) will greatly extend the time between oil changes.
Someone know something about performance ecotec oil filters we dont?
Part numbers?
Cost?
Where to get them?
A general statement from a manufacturer cannot be applied to every situation and variable. Some truths, some not so; but to take a manufacturer claim as gospel is foolish.
Is something better some applications, maybe, is it better for everyone, maybe not.
#25
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What are you, a dumb ass who can't understand English? Did I not say independent testing? Meaning done by people other than the manufacturer? I don't take any statements from the manufacturer. Or maybe you confused me answering the post above mine with were I got my information from.
Mobile 1 has also been proven to be good for over 12k miles. Performance car testing used an LS1.
There are a few things you need to do if you want to run your oil long life. Change the filter every 6k miles, regularly check and top off your oil (about once every 1k miles). Mandatory change of oil once a year.
As for the rare earth magnets, not everyone on here has an LSJ or aluminum block. I know my Silverado doesn't. And even if you have an aluminum block, if you think that is the only trace metal that will show up in your oil you are sadly mistaken. You also don't have to put them on your filter (though if possible that makes cleanup easy). People have also successfully used them by attaching them to the bottom of their oil pans near the drain. A magnetized oil drain plug is normally a waste of money. They are commonly made by magnetizing iron, which looses its charge.
Mobile 1 has also been proven to be good for over 12k miles. Performance car testing used an LS1.
There are a few things you need to do if you want to run your oil long life. Change the filter every 6k miles, regularly check and top off your oil (about once every 1k miles). Mandatory change of oil once a year.
As for the rare earth magnets, not everyone on here has an LSJ or aluminum block. I know my Silverado doesn't. And even if you have an aluminum block, if you think that is the only trace metal that will show up in your oil you are sadly mistaken. You also don't have to put them on your filter (though if possible that makes cleanup easy). People have also successfully used them by attaching them to the bottom of their oil pans near the drain. A magnetized oil drain plug is normally a waste of money. They are commonly made by magnetizing iron, which looses its charge.