CCrunner84

I'm doing a trans swap in my 04 Ion Redline, brand new LSD trans.

I also installed a new GMPP clutch: Ecotec LSJ Clutch Upgrade Kit 19212712 - Crate Engine Depot

The trans came with a brand new slave, when we had everything buttoned up, we tried to bleed it. Clutch fluid came leaking between the bell housing and engine.

Dropped the trans, found the slave was popped or leaking etc.

So i swapped in the TOB that came with the new clutch, same ****, popped and started leaking.

I bought another slave, installed the trans, tried to bleed it right away, ******* isn't building pressure and I see clutch fluid starting to drip again from the bottom of the transmission.

Is there anything I can be doing wrong, or am I having some serious fucked up luck?

Iam Broke

iTrader: (10)

Are you sure the connection into the clutch housing isn't bad and it's leaking there? I've read that thing is a problem.

USMCFieldMP

iTrader: (1)

Yes... you should always replace the Clutch Pipe that is inside the Transmission.

Cobalt Clutch Pipe 24422067 - Crate Engine Depot

CCrunner84

This was a brand new trans though, the pipe was new, I assume it could have been toast after this third TOB.

I've checked the last two bad ones, and it's leaking form inside the TOB somewhere, not at the line, that I'm 100% sure.

This last one I'm not sure yet, I walked away from the car last night.

Iam Broke

iTrader: (10)

Perhaps you have a locked up pressure plate that is keeping the slave from moving and the pressure is blowing it out?

Strange to lunch so many.

coopercharge

iTrader: (4)

did you make sure the pressure fitting is on the nipple of the slave cylinder it looks like a little bead and sits on the slave cylinders nipple and the hose slides over both pieces?

dannysauer

iTrader: (3)

Pull the line from the transmission and make sure u only have one rubber seal in there cuz u may have stacked another on it and that will cause it to blow out the tob

CCrunner84

I'm not near the car right now to check but how would it blow the slave?

dannysauer

iTrader: (3)

Cuz it builds up to much pressure and has no were to go but out the tob if u take one apart u will find a rubber ring inside that is all messed up

asherby85

iTrader: (2)

This.

He knows from experience on my bf's transmission. We had the exact same problem that you are having and this was our issue. I was actually about to suggest the same thing, but Danny beat me to it.

CCrunner84

So there is some sort of bypass in that T fitting?

SSPainter

iTrader: (7)

i got a faulty tob my first install, exchanged it and the 2nd one worked like a champ. Ive also heard of pressure bleeding ruining Slaves... So I bled mine by peddle.

boost_junkie16

iTrader: (1)

I ran into the same problem when replacing my clutch. I went through two and finally got fed up. I made a new line from the slave and put a regular fitting with a bubble flare. Then just connected the two lines together with a coupler. Basically I deleted the bleed screw. I bled the clutch out by just loosening and tightening the coupler. I know it's not the proper way, but 10,000kms later and it's still working like a champ.

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

Sure it's mounting flush inside the housing? I had a bad slave once (brand new one), but once i got the part warrantied, all was fine, even with the Exedy super-clutch pressure plate in there.

CCrunner84

Yes it is, I had to take care of one bolt to get it in with all three (torx heads I'm not a fan of).


Can anyone confirm that there is some sort of bypass valve in that slave T fitting?

CCrunner84

I bled this using the traditional method, pump the peddle a few times, pop open the valve for a second and repeat.

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

There is no bypass valve in that fitting. Usually it will leak if it's not 100% perfect, but that doesn't seem to be the issue here. I'd say there has to be something keeping the TOB from sitting flat on the housing, and it's binding and blowing out.

Those OEM bolts are a bitch and a half to remove. I broke one and had to weld it to a nut to remove it on the first clutch job I did. Make sure you have a matched set of good bolts (I usually switch to a socket cap allen bolt) with some blue locktite on them.

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

GM procedure says to vac bleed. Every one i've done has been great with that method. Vacuum, release, pump the pedal, repeat. 3rd or 4th time, you've got a proper clutch pedal, no fluid leaks on anything, and it's very simple.

CCrunner84

What do you use to put vacuum on it? Is this something I could pick up at autozone / napa etc?

I've replaced the bolts already with socket head cap screws, and did a dry test to make sure it moves up and down freely.

I've checked to make sure it's not leaking past that T fitting. I removed the little plastic vent right next to it and go my finger over there to feel around while someone was pressing the clutch in, nothing was leaking by, it's always at the slave where it's leaking.

Iam Broke

iTrader: (10)

I'm glad Joe can vac bleed it, I tried several times with zero luck. I use the old fashioned way. Put a hose on the bleeder fitting into a jar from the fitting on top of the clutch housing, loosen the bleeder, depress the pedal slowly, tighten the bleeder, raise the pedal, repeat until no bubbles come out.

I had 25" vac on the master cyl for an hour at a time with zero results, released it, pumped it didn't matter.

I tried a MityVac kit on it. IDK what I was doing wrong.

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

I have a simple little vacuum tester and a rubber stopper I shaped to fit the master cyl opening. Plug it in, pump up about 20"hg of vac and let it sit for 15 min, release, pump pedal, repeat.

Iam Broke

iTrader: (10)

Thanks Joe, That's about what I did. At any rate I got the air out of mine the old fashioned way after all was said & done.

dannysauer

iTrader: (3)

Did u get the problem figured out man if so what was it