Stock clutch: how long has yours lasted...
09-03-2008, 11:35 PM
#51
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85k fellas, ive done nitrous, slicks, and i have a ported blower, pulley, etc on now.....She is about to go though but its been through enough! Time to upgrade, haha
09-03-2008, 11:58 PM
#52
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Ya i am taking mine to the dealer monday to get it looked at so..ya i am hopin they just replace it. Its under factory warrenty. I wonder what kinda car i am gonna get getting for a Rental 
lol
lol
09-04-2008, 12:28 AM
#53
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you want to get the clutch to the engage point, and THEN hit the gas. not hit the gas and then engage the clutch. i'm completely off the clutch by 1,000 rpms unless i'm on a hill. on a big hill, i give it a lil gas first and i'm off by maybe 1500.
to practice doing this, go on a flat area, and let the clutch out, NO GAS. when you start moving, that's the engage point, and that's when you want to start giving gas. after a while it becomes very quick.
to practice doing this, go on a flat area, and let the clutch out, NO GAS. when you start moving, that's the engage point, and that's when you want to start giving gas. after a while it becomes very quick.
But with the Exedy it's ******* hard to keep from stalling doing that right now. Maybe once it has worn in more.
09-04-2008, 09:40 AM
#57
Not a Sebring
I think if and when my stock clutch ever does go, ill just upgrade to an Exedy organic stage 1 w/ a Fidanza flywheel. I don't want or need any higher than a stage 1 and I wanna keep it bearable in heavy traffic. But looking as even some guys with 100k on their stock clutch, maybe my stock clutch will last for as long as I plan on owning the car, lol.
09-04-2008, 09:50 PM
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I'd call bullshit but I'm too lazy to do it. Knowing GM bizarro land the clutch probably lasts longer when you modify the **** out of the car rather than run stock.
The centerforce dfx setup is supposed to be a good daily driver clutch. I won't replace mine until I have to, then boot it for the exedy or centerforce as long as the flywheel is light enough to make acceleration/deceleration insane. Then I'll need a new starter (again).
I think if and when my stock clutch ever does go, ill just upgrade to an Exedy organic stage 1 w/ a Fidanza flywheel. I don't want or need any higher than a stage 1 and I wanna keep it bearable in heavy traffic. But looking as even some guys with 100k on their stock clutch, maybe my stock clutch will last for as long as I plan on owning the car, lol.
Last edited by theneelster; 09-04-2008 at 09:50 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
09-04-2008, 10:17 PM
#61
09-08-2008, 09:27 PM
#64
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No driver mod needed. Every clutch i got the old one from the dealer, a buddy of mine is a tech and if you were to take a straight edge accros the pressure plate the only place the straight edge touched was a half in on the end. Meaning the disk wasnt holding. The disk was always really good looking but not enough pressure
09-08-2008, 09:56 PM
#66
you want to get the clutch to the engage point, and THEN hit the gas. not hit the gas and then engage the clutch. i'm completely off the clutch by 1,000 rpms unless i'm on a hill. on a big hill, i give it a lil gas first and i'm off by maybe 1500.
to practice doing this, go on a flat area, and let the clutch out, NO GAS. when you start moving, that's the engage point, and that's when you want to start giving gas. after a while it becomes very quick.
to practice doing this, go on a flat area, and let the clutch out, NO GAS. when you start moving, that's the engage point, and that's when you want to start giving gas. after a while it becomes very quick.
09-09-2008, 08:00 PM
#68
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09-09-2008, 10:15 PM
#69
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Mine lasted 63k and still held strong. I upgraded so I wouldn't have to install one later when I build it up (plus I was putting a new trans in, no reason not to).
I agree with the rest of your comment, but I'm curious, how are you 'supposed' to do it? It seems like targeting a reasonable RPM range (1800-2000) and letting out the clutch until it matches would be the most efficient way of doing it, clutch-wear wise.
I agree with the rest of your comment, but I'm curious, how are you 'supposed' to do it? It seems like targeting a reasonable RPM range (1800-2000) and letting out the clutch until it matches would be the most efficient way of doing it, clutch-wear wise.
Im newb to a manual.. the 09 SS I have 500 miles on is my first manual... I have posted several threads in the drivetrain section asking for any advice.
How are you suppose to let the clutch out from a stop in normal driving... (light turns green). Aren't you suppose to let it out pretty slow while giving it a bit of gas? I realize that anytime the clutch is not fully disengaged or engaged, its causing wear. But... it seems if I let the clutch out to fast from a stop,,, I either stall from not enough gas.. or I give it enough gas.. and the tires light up... Im sure there is a fine line in between those two things...but does letting it out slowly in 1st from a stop wear on it or cause it to slip?
I slowly let it out till I feel the car start to move... give it about a half second to get moving then slowly but with a fluid motion.. let out the clutch the rest of the way while giving it a bit of gas.
09-10-2008, 04:40 PM
#70
Senior Member
Rev match yer downshifts too, much easier on the clutch, gears, cv joints, motor and trans mounts, passengers....everything.
I learned to "drive stick" on a 13 speed about 2 centuries ago - if you didn't rev match every shift, you were not going to catch the next gear, no way no how - no synchros in them trannys.
Leaving from a stop (with the 13 - any large truck for that matter) was no throttle at all until the clutch was all out....but I had 1850 ft/lbs of torque to play with, pretty tough to stall it out. 
Of course, nail the throttle hard in LL and you would spit the driveshaft out 
Small stuff (like our 'Balts ) I will feed in a little throttle as I am coming up on the clutch - maybe 1100 - 1200 rpm......unless there is something I wish to be in front of in the next lane, then its 2400 - 2500
Either way, you want to spend as little time as possible with the clutch slipping. Get it out as quick as you can without stalling / bunny hopping / wheel spin (unless that is the desired outcome )
Bottom line, it takes practice. Couple thousand miles in traffic you will be banging off shifts like a pro.
Learning that way seems to have served me well....my 89 535i has 285000 km on the original clutch, still no slippage. Guess we will see if this little red coupe can do the same
I learned to "drive stick" on a 13 speed about 2 centuries ago
- if you didn't rev match every shift, you were not going to catch the next gear, no way no how - no synchros in them trannys. Of course, nail the throttle hard in LL and you would spit the driveshaft out Small stuff (like our 'Balts ) I will feed in a little throttle as I am coming up on the clutch - maybe 1100 - 1200 rpm......unless there is something I wish to be in front of in the next lane, then its 2400 - 2500
Either way, you want to spend as little time as possible with the clutch slipping. Get it out as quick as you can without stalling / bunny hopping / wheel spin (unless that is the desired outcome )Bottom line, it takes practice. Couple thousand miles in traffic you will be banging off shifts like a pro.
Learning that way seems to have served me well....my 89 535i has 285000 km on the original clutch, still no slippage. Guess we will see if this little red coupe can do the same
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