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Old 10-29-2007, 03:28 PM
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Tranny

has anyone used other transmission fluid other then gm #21018899 in their ss s/c? also where is the fill plug? Thanks

anyone, i need this info

Last edited by JMAc88; 10-29-2007 at 03:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 10-29-2007, 04:15 PM
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The fill plug is on the drivers side of the tranny behind the the plastic wheel well piece, the drain plug is right below it too. I used Royal Purple MaxGear 75W-90 gear oil and it's far superior all the way around to the GM stuff.
Old 10-29-2007, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 2K5SS/SC?
The fill plug is on the drivers side of the tranny behind the the plastic wheel well piece, the drain plug is right below it too. I used Royal Purple MaxGear 75W-90 gear oil and it's far superior all the way around to the GM stuff.
thanks for the help
Old 10-29-2007, 05:36 PM
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I used Royal Purple Syncromax (not syncromesh) made for manual transmissions. I cannot prove it but I have heard that 75-90 is too thick....the factory fluid is very thin. Takes 1.8 quarts also.
Old 10-29-2007, 05:46 PM
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Trust me when I say the MaxGear 75W-90 is what you need. It's the only Royal Purple product that meets the GM requirements, but actually exceeds them as well. It has the LSD additives in it as well as a shockproofing agent, and to top it all off it meets the GL-4 requirement set by GM. My tranny has never shifted smoother now that I have the Max Gear in there, and it's helping protect it too since I've managed to grenade two 3rd gears already in my two previous trannies.
Old 10-29-2007, 05:54 PM
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So the MaxGear 75W-90 is pretty good **** then, huh?
Old 10-29-2007, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by M-Dub
So the MaxGear 75W-90 is pretty good **** then, huh?
Real good **** then!

My Integra takes 10W-30 motor oil for the tranny, and after I put the Royal Purple 10W-30 motor oil in it, there was a huge difference! What can I say, I now use Royal Purple products in all three of my vehicles! My truck just got an oil change with it, the Integra runs it, and my Cobalt runs it too. It has to be good stuff to get me to change over from my previous beloved Mobil Synthetic.
Old 10-29-2007, 07:56 PM
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looking at the specs, it supposed to take dexron III atf. dexron 3 is about as thick as 10w oil. from past expiriance, going to thicker oil may cause hard shifting and can prematurly wear syncros and bearings. not saying it wont work, but its something to think about.
Old 10-29-2007, 08:02 PM
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Also, switching to synthetics can also increase performance, for instance, i changed my 2005 dodge ram 1500 to amsoil engine oil, trans fluid, t-case fluid and rearend lube and went from 15.5 quartermile to 15.3. no bullshit. its all about rotational resistance
Old 10-29-2007, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Sharkey
looking at the specs, it supposed to take dexron III atf. dexron 3 is about as thick as 10w oil. from past expiriance, going to thicker oil may cause hard shifting and can prematurly wear syncros and bearings. not saying it wont work, but its something to think about.
Wrong tranny my friend, try again. The MU3 trans A.K.A. the F35 takes a special GL-4 rated synthetic transmission fluid available at your local GM dealer for $12-15/quart. Trust me when I say that I know what I'm talking about here as I have done the research, and have had my tranny out of the car 5 times now. I have the job down to 7 hours on jackstands in my garage, and that's by myself to boot!

Originally Posted by Frankruffolo257
Also, switching to synthetics can also increase performance, for instance, i changed my 2005 dodge ram 1500 to amsoil engine oil, trans fluid, t-case fluid and rearend lube and went from 15.5 quartermile to 15.3. no bullshit. its all about rotational resistance
I believe it too! My cars all run so much smoother and shift nicer than ever before. The price has recently come down on their products too, so now they cost the same as Mobil 1. It's really a no brainer after you've tried out their products.

Last edited by 2K5SS/SC?; 10-29-2007 at 11:34 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 10-29-2007, 11:36 PM
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Might want to look into RedLine products. Very popular with modified Suby's. Personally I have RedLine Heavy Shock Proof in mine. It didn't get rid of the whine the tranny makes, but it did make the shifts like butter, and hopefully will help the trans last a bit longer.

Changing trans fluid is easy in these cars. Only part that sucks is the drain plug is right next to the subframe, little tight.
Old 10-30-2007, 11:14 AM
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Here is the stock F35 Manual Transmission fluid:
-SAAB MTF 0063, SAABs fully syntetic 75W/90 from Castrol
-GM has their own part number for the fulid, i don't remember what the part number is.


There actually was a time that they put Dex III in the F35 transmission (back when the transmissions were first put in the Saab 9-3), but found that the transmissions would tear themselves apart.
Old 10-30-2007, 11:23 AM
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interesting, i guess alldata still gives the old spec out. i know plenty of guys in the j-body community try switching to royal purple and other manual transmission fluids that are gear oil viscosity. some swear buy it, but nobody really pays attention to the viscosity on the bottle, they asume because its manual tranny fluid itll work.
Old 10-30-2007, 11:29 AM
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I used syncromech......that's what it calls for...that's what I used....I don't know enough about tranny's to mess w/ other lub's
Old 12-14-2007, 07:58 PM
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Hey, how much fluid is required and how long does draining and filling take? Anybody could do this right?

Thanks
Old 12-14-2007, 11:05 PM
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Hmmm ill have to look up what kind the F23 takes. Sounds like ill be putting Royal Purple in it this weekend when i finish up this damn thing... lol
Old 12-15-2007, 10:21 AM
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Tranny fluid

Guys..

First off have you actually taken apart the tranny and looked at the gears and the oil hole that supplys them with lub? The hole is so tiny its no wonder this cars tranny sucks. I have my tranny apart and its amazing too see what GM was thinking on this one. The hole is the size of a pen in diameter. So if you put a 75W-90 weight oil in it which is very thick you will get very little flow going too the gears. Especally in the winter time if you live up north. A thinner weight oil would be better. I will see if I can upload some pics....


Old 12-15-2007, 10:47 AM
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Ive been through 5 transmissions... and yes Ive rebuilt the last one i got i think the fluid that's in are trans is crap... i think its fine as far as thickness but its junk as far as a lubrication.. I'm using a mix between two fluids i mixed 1/2 qt. of royal purple and 1qt. of redline d4 atf fluid..

i let my car warm up every day before driving it and the 2 fluids worked out great for me... after it warms up it shifts smooth and no noise from the gears.. do i recommend doing this i cant say.. but so far i like how the trans acts...for me the royal purple is great. and its still thin enough to pass through the oil passages i ran my car for 500 miles then drained it back out to see if there was any metal in there there was none to be found.. this works for me ... before i tried this i experimented in cups with different types of fluids... mixing them and found this combination was the the best one for me...
its still thin enough to go through the oil passage and its viscosity is better then just the 2 by them self's.. the oils stick to the gears and dint run off like water.. but that's my opinion..

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Old 12-15-2007, 06:13 PM
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im still wanting to know what is breaking in these transmissions. when i put a thread up all i got was "wheelhop breaking the case", wich is not a lubrication issue.

btw the tranny is built by getrag in europe. getrag builds transmissions for lots more than gm and has built some great stuff.
Old 12-15-2007, 07:33 PM
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its the diffs for me that keeps breaking and the input shaft bearings..

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this is what keeps breaking..
Old 12-15-2007, 08:05 PM
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did the spider gears break or did the pin come through the case???

as a transmission tech, i see a lot of this sort of thing, and it always comes down to spinning the tires. basicly the side/spider gears are not designed to spin at very high rpm, they are designed just to allow one tire to spin faster during cornering. when you do a burnout or get stuck and one tire is turning, the side and spiders turn very very fast. now couple that with a carrier spinning, and the oil is pushed away from the side/spider gears and they dont get any lube. they start to seize onto the diff pin and either break, or cause the retainer pin to break, allowing the diff pin to walk out and put a hole in the case. this is caused by lack of lube to the side and spiders, however there is nothing you can do to fix that just by design. ive seen a multitude of cars of all different makes do this (quite common in winter with the ice and snow). ive even seen rwd stuff with open diffs (or worn out limited slips) do the same thing.
Old 12-15-2007, 08:44 PM
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If you been through 5 trannys, you need to learn2drive
Old 12-15-2007, 09:44 PM
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dont start with that bull ****..... WSFrazier.... i race my car every day at the drag strip, autocross and down the street. plus im making more power then most any one on here except a few that built there engines... im allso a 2.2 supercharged... so watch your statements...
Old 12-15-2007, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by yellowshowbalt
dont start with that bull ****..... WSFrazier.... i race my car every day at the drag strip, autocross and down the street. plus im making more power then most any one on here except a few that built there engines... im allso a 2.2 supercharged... so watch your statements...
1) If I still had my Cobalt I am sure it would wtfpwn you, but it grew too slow for my tastes.
2) Turboed ecotec's with that same trans have been making a lot more power than you on the stock tranny, still are
3) Isn't that an oxymoron... a supercharged 2.2?
4) lol 2.2
Old 12-15-2007, 10:49 PM
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and you are part of the reason why some people hate talking on this site...

btw you couldent hold a candle stick to me bub...

whats wrong had to buy a car that has mods all ready for it.. i see your a follower and not a leader..
dam lemming... and you suck..


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