Tranny Mounts
#1
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Join Date: 02-20-08
Location: Lacombe, AB
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Tranny Mounts
What is the difference between these two mounts. (1)One is just inserts and the bushing and the other (2) is billet and the inset? like what is the difference? Which one should I go with?
Here are the links, take a look and let me know the difference:
(1)http://www.turbotechracing.com/produ...dcategory=5615
(2)http://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt_...=526&catid=146
Here are the links, take a look and let me know the difference:
(1)http://www.turbotechracing.com/produ...dcategory=5615
(2)http://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt_...=526&catid=146
#2
What is the difference between these two mounts. (1)One is just inserts and the bushing and the other (2) is billet and the inset? like what is the difference? Which one should I go with?
Here are the links, take a look and let me know the difference:
(1)http://www.turbotechracing.com/produ...dcategory=5615
(2)http://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt_...=526&catid=146
Here are the links, take a look and let me know the difference:
(1)http://www.turbotechracing.com/produ...dcategory=5615
(2)http://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt_...=526&catid=146
#4
Rattlesnake Race Shop
iTrader: (1)
What is the difference between these two mounts. (1)One is just inserts and the bushing and the other (2) is billet and the inset? like what is the difference? Which one should I go with?
Here are the links, take a look and let me know the difference:
(1)http://www.turbotechracing.com/produ...dcategory=5615
(2)http://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt_...=526&catid=146
Here are the links, take a look and let me know the difference:
(1)http://www.turbotechracing.com/produ...dcategory=5615
(2)http://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt_...=526&catid=146
Neither, get these: http://www.ottperformance.com/Cobalt...duct_info.html
Buy the rotated mounts from OTTP. They serve a purpose... read the build book if you don't believe me.
#6
Rattlesnake Race Shop
iTrader: (1)
On a regular SS/SC Trans mount... the hole for the bolt is right in the middle. On OTTP's rotated mounts, the hole is in a very specific spot, designed to rotate the motor, which in turn move the positioning/angle of the axles, eliminating wheel hop - and the majority of axle problems, etc etc etc.
There... that is a dumbified down version without all the technical jargon.
#7
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Thanks dude so all in all these are a **** load better then buy plain poly inserts? So am I right in assuming that you either need to send you mount in or buy a whole new one?
#8
Rattlesnake Race Shop
iTrader: (1)
So you either:
a.) Order the mounts paying core charge, receive them, install, send in your stockers, receive core charge back.
or
b.) Order mounts w/o paying core charge, send your stockers in, receive updated mounts, install.
#12
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Okay so.... is stage one only replace one of the tranny mounts while stg.2 replaces both? Is that correct to assume. Also what do you think of the upper motor mount over ingalls?
#13
Rattlesnake Race Shop
iTrader: (1)
Stg1 replaces the front motor mount and puts a spacer on the rear. Stg 2 replaces both.
With the OTTP Rotated mounts, you do not need an Upper Motor Mount, and I strongly recommend that you do not put one on - bad.
Take that junk ass Ingall's off of there too. Once you have Trans mounts, the ingall's become obsolete.
#24
Rattlesnake Race Shop
iTrader: (1)
2.) The rotated mounts do just that... they rotate the engine. Having the softer, stock upper mounts allows you to do this safely. Having a hard mount like TTR's that is made to run at the stock engine angle becomes "dangerous" when running the rotated mounts.
This is from someone that helped build a very fast, multi-colored Cobalt that won a big timed event :
You can use a ttr mount but it may break your lower mounts.
I have posted the information over and over; to tell you the truth, you may have missed the posts on css and RLF. The included angle output shaft center line of trans to input shaft at centerline of hub bearing at ride height is 17 degrees on an SS/SC/TC. The axle doesnt like that. The car was designed for the AT trans. So by moving the trans output shaft back the axle when it is more or less straight as it moves up and down, has a better time transmitting power. The top mounts are soft, so that allows movement without spending more money.
To do it 100% correct, you need to face the trans mount flange that bolts to the block on the passenger side. But it doesnt appear to matter so i dont do it anymore. The passenger side mount the two big bolts need to be loosened off and then re-tightened with the new mounts installed, there is a humungous amount of hole there to allow for easy assembly and that helps us. The drivers side bushing is made of silly putty so it doesnt care at all. The TTR poly bushings or anyone elses dont work because they dont fix the root cause number 1 and number 2 they vibrate as they dont have a voided isolation bushing.
I have posted the information over and over; to tell you the truth, you may have missed the posts on css and RLF. The included angle output shaft center line of trans to input shaft at centerline of hub bearing at ride height is 17 degrees on an SS/SC/TC. The axle doesnt like that. The car was designed for the AT trans. So by moving the trans output shaft back the axle when it is more or less straight as it moves up and down, has a better time transmitting power. The top mounts are soft, so that allows movement without spending more money.
To do it 100% correct, you need to face the trans mount flange that bolts to the block on the passenger side. But it doesnt appear to matter so i dont do it anymore. The passenger side mount the two big bolts need to be loosened off and then re-tightened with the new mounts installed, there is a humungous amount of hole there to allow for easy assembly and that helps us. The drivers side bushing is made of silly putty so it doesnt care at all. The TTR poly bushings or anyone elses dont work because they dont fix the root cause number 1 and number 2 they vibrate as they dont have a voided isolation bushing.
I'm not trying to bash you guys or anything. Your upper mount is a great add on for Poly Inserts and it look pretty damn good... but it is a risky add on with rotated mounts.
Sold it a week later and NEVER missed it. That was a year ago.
But... in all honesty... you shouldn't need them. IIRC, the auto puts the Axles at a different angle than the manual trans does. You should be fine with stock mounts.
#25
1.)
As I said before... and as TTR said... the ingall's is junk. JUNK. Plain and Simple. If you have one now... sell it. I had one with INTENSE's poly inserts. Ran it that way for 1 year. One day... while at the track, I took the Ingall's off to see if it made a difference... and it didn't.
Sold it a week later and NEVER missed it. That was a year ago.
As I said before... and as TTR said... the ingall's is junk. JUNK. Plain and Simple. If you have one now... sell it. I had one with INTENSE's poly inserts. Ran it that way for 1 year. One day... while at the track, I took the Ingall's off to see if it made a difference... and it didn't.
Sold it a week later and NEVER missed it. That was a year ago.