JsavageSS/TC

Just replaced the clutch master cylinder. Bleed the system, I do need to add more brake fluid to the brake master.... I have good pressure as what I would imagine a stg 4 exedy clutch would have. I can't get it to go into any gear. I actually got it to go into reverse but as soon as it slipped in it grinded really bad and killed the engine. The previous owner replaced the shifter cables and said they might need to be adjusted. Its also has a hurst sts... please help... any suggestions?


Don't pay any attention to my sig, that's my old car. I now have a 05 ss

Iam Broke

iTrader: (10)

Did you vacuum bleed the clutch? You will need to to get the trapped air out of the slave cylinder, bleeding the line at the bellhousing isn't adequate.

JsavageSS/TC

I kind of figured that... where can I rent one?

Iam Broke

iTrader: (10)

IDK, I bought a whole kit for $35.

JsavageSS/TC

Where from?

Iam Broke

iTrader: (10)

Of all places...Amazon.com, I think it's a Mity-vac kit.

JsavageSS/TC

So will vaccume bleeding fix it? Its like clutch won't work, good pressure but it stays engaged at all times

Iam Broke

iTrader: (10)

If you had it apart and haven't vacuum bled it there is air trapped in the slave cyl. Besides that you may need a ZZP adj clutch rod to increase the throw from the pedal. Diagnosing over the internetz is difficult to say for sure. One can hope it will fix it.

JsavageSS/TC

I had one on there, but didn't swap it out when I changed the master... I'm thinking there is something else wrong because the clutch is always engaged no matter what... maybe the slave?

Iam Broke

iTrader: (10)

Could be, is there fluid leaking out of the bottom of the bellhousing? If so, then it let go.

I think many have had a problem with the connection from the master cyl into the bell housing leaking also.

JsavageSS/TC

Only fluid I saw was from me bleeding it. I'm about to just buy a whole new stg 2 from gm... or what would be perfect for my set up? 2.6, 60's, HE, 75% meth, wicked tuned, header, catless dp, ark catback... it has an exedy stg 4 but I can afford that... I need a good affordable alternative...

Iam Broke

iTrader: (10)

From your posting tag I thought you had an LNF, my bad. The LSJ slave units blow out a lot from what I've read and the LNF slave is a great upgrade. Might be all it is and the clutch is fine.

Perhaps some SS/SC owners will chime in.

I have a SPEC Stage2+ with a LWFW and it has some issues as well. Wants to drag a lot even with the ZZP adj rod when it's cold out. Chatters & moans a bit cold too.

Chevycobaltss3

iTrader: (2)

I already walked u through this jewbag....... lnao its ure friction disc.. if the clutch pedal is engaged and the throwout bearing is getting pushed out and you start the car in gear it shouldn't.move even if u have. Few air. Bubbles. The friction disc is ure issue and I promise u it is. No matter what if your clutch is engaged and fully engaged thrn ure issue is the clutch. Get the gmpp clutch for real..... easy to put in......

Quote:

Originally Posted by JsavageSS/TC

Only fluid I saw was from me bleeding it. I'm about to just buy a whole new stg 2 from gm... or what would be perfect for my set up? 2.6, 60's, HE, 75% meth, wicked tuned, header, catless dp, ark catback... it has an exedy stg 4 but I can afford that... I need a good affordable alternative...

Chevycobaltss3

iTrader: (2)

Get the clutch and ill put it in. Then i can tune it and make it pull alot better...




.....it

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chevycobaltss3

I already walked u through this jewbag....... lnao its ure friction disc.. if the clutch pedal is engaged and the throwout bearing is getting pushed out and you start the car in gear it shouldn't.move even if u have. Few air. Bubbles. The friction disc is ure issue and I promise u it is. No matter what if your clutch is engaged and fully engaged thrn ure issue is the clutch. Get the gmpp clutch for real..... easy to put in......

JsavageSS/TC

I sold my RX7 so that will fund my new clutch... I'm currently pulling the trans right now so I can inspect the damage... ill take pics later on after it is out...

Chevycobaltss3

iTrader: (2)

Easy lmao.... k let me know

Quote:

Originally Posted by JsavageSS/TC

I sold my RX7 so that will fund my new clutch... I'm currently pulling the trans right now so I can inspect the damage... ill take pics later on after it is out...

Chevycobaltss3

iTrader: (2)

I say,ur friction disc is. Missing some springs...

JsavageSS/TC

Pressure plate is probbably missing some fingers, or they are bent... I was just thinking about that

buellfooll

The vacuum bleed method has been mentioned but you also have the option of pressure bleeding. It's easier and faster IMHO. One man can completely change brake and/or clutch fluid in about 1/2 hr., assuming the wheels are already off the car. And it's strictly a ONE man job. I've bled brakes every way possible and the pressure bleeder is the best. Again! JMHO!

It might be a little more expensive but because it's so easy you'll be more inclined to change the fluid more often.

GM Bleeder 0108 -- Motive Products Online Store

Before ordering call Motive to make sure of the adaptor #. I think this is the one I have. It can also be bought at Amazon through one of their vendors with free shipping. Here;

Amazon.com: Motive Products GM Power Bleeder: Hoerr Racing Products

Good luck.

JsavageSS/TC

Quick.... what size are the hub bolts? All I have is a 36mm but that only fits the TC, the lsj is smaller.... what is it?