Uncool, tranny drain plug stripped
#1
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Uncool, tranny drain plug stripped
Quick History,
Took car to auto shop to have tranny fuid swapped with synthetic (didn't want to do it myself). They couldn't do it because they didn't have a tool to fit between the tranny and chassis. Long story short. I cut off the short end of a 8mm allen to get to it. I pop under the car to do it myself and find the drain plug is stripped like crazy. No way of getting any torque on it. Of course I cant go back to the shop, because how would I prove they stripped the bolt. The my word against their's scenario comes in play. Now heres the question.
How do you get out a stripped transmission drain plug when you have limited room to work in?
Damn this bites!
Took car to auto shop to have tranny fuid swapped with synthetic (didn't want to do it myself). They couldn't do it because they didn't have a tool to fit between the tranny and chassis. Long story short. I cut off the short end of a 8mm allen to get to it. I pop under the car to do it myself and find the drain plug is stripped like crazy. No way of getting any torque on it. Of course I cant go back to the shop, because how would I prove they stripped the bolt. The my word against their's scenario comes in play. Now heres the question.
How do you get out a stripped transmission drain plug when you have limited room to work in?
Damn this bites!
#3
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I dont know about you man, but I would go tear ass at the old shop. I dont know what kind of bolt it is, or the clearance (havent done this yet) but there are tools specifically for extracting stripped bolts/screws/etc.... Craftsman FTW
#4
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Yeah I know, Craftsman has a lot of tools to get stripped bolts, screws and what have you out. It is a stripped 8mm allen bolt for the f23 getrag tranny drain plug. there is about 1/2 inch between the bolt and the frame/chasis rail
Does anyone think epoxying the allen wrench too the bolt might work. I was thinking about that 2000psi holding strength stuff. I am obviously going to replace the bolt afterwords. I was thinking about trying to weld a wrench to it, but kind of though the epoxy scenario might be easier and safer
Does anyone think epoxying the allen wrench too the bolt might work. I was thinking about that 2000psi holding strength stuff. I am obviously going to replace the bolt afterwords. I was thinking about trying to weld a wrench to it, but kind of though the epoxy scenario might be easier and safer
Last edited by jsscooby; 06-08-2007 at 01:50 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Do you have an air compressor and any pneumatic tools? This might be a job for a pneumatic ratchet and an extractor bit.
But if that fails, then the epoxy might work, but make sure that after you break it loose your glued on tool wont get in the way of turning the bolt 360* around to take it all the way out.
But if that fails, then the epoxy might work, but make sure that after you break it loose your glued on tool wont get in the way of turning the bolt 360* around to take it all the way out.
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Do you have an air compressor and any pneumatic tools? This might be a job for a pneumatic ratchet and an extractor bit.
But if that fails, then the epoxy might work, but make sure that after you break it loose your glued on tool wont get in the way of turning the bolt 360* around to take it all the way out.
But if that fails, then the epoxy might work, but make sure that after you break it loose your glued on tool wont get in the way of turning the bolt 360* around to take it all the way out.
#8
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do you access to a welder? if you do, fill in the stripped hole with weld. then use the pretruding weld as a way to turn the stripped plug. at work whenever a bolt is broken off flush with the component that it is in we do thise and it 9 times out of ten comes out and everything is okay.
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Quick History,
Took car to auto shop to have tranny fuid swapped with synthetic (didn't want to do it myself). They couldn't do it because they didn't have a tool to fit between the tranny and chassis. Long story short. I cut off the short end of a 8mm allen to get to it. I pop under the car to do it myself and find the drain plug is stripped like crazy. No way of getting any torque on it. Of course I cant go back to the shop, because how would I prove they stripped the bolt. The my word against their's scenario comes in play. Now heres the question.
How do you get out a stripped transmission drain plug when you have limited room to work in?
Damn this bites!
Took car to auto shop to have tranny fuid swapped with synthetic (didn't want to do it myself). They couldn't do it because they didn't have a tool to fit between the tranny and chassis. Long story short. I cut off the short end of a 8mm allen to get to it. I pop under the car to do it myself and find the drain plug is stripped like crazy. No way of getting any torque on it. Of course I cant go back to the shop, because how would I prove they stripped the bolt. The my word against their's scenario comes in play. Now heres the question.
How do you get out a stripped transmission drain plug when you have limited room to work in?
Damn this bites!
My drain plug bolt is stripped right. I had plans to put RP syncromax in it. What do you all thing the possibilty of sucking out some of the ATF through the fill hole would be. I do realize that gears are in the way, so who know how far I could route a hose inside the tranny to suck out as much ATF as possible. Maybe I would be able to get half it out and be left with a 50% ATF and 50% RP syncromax mix. (the two mixes would be compatible). i'm figuring this should yield some of the benefits of switching fluids. Flame On!
#11
Why not try an allen bit. Like the ones that would be used on a universal screwdriver or rachet set. JB Weld that into the plug. Then use a pair of pliers or a racheting closed end wrench to back the bolt out.
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Go to a good welding/machine shop and tell them what you are up against. Best thing to do is to try an allen key, if not then you can drill into it, increase bit size, drill into it, tap it, and turn it out. Be sure to change the fluid afterwards! Or you can weld on it and grip onto the weld and turn out that out (its not as easy as it sounds).
Go to a good shop to someone that cares.
Go to a good shop to someone that cares.
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Yeah I got all these methods to get it out, but i am in a tight area. The frame rail is literally 3/4 inch away from plug. i had to shave the short end of an allen key to even get it onto the bolt. I think i might **** and moan a little while longer and leave it as is.
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bump
"Yeah, umm, possibly a stupid question, but the thought is hanging on to me.
My drain plug bolt is stripped right. I had plans to put RP syncromax in it. What do you all thing the possibilty of sucking out some of the ATF through the fill hole would be. I do realize that gears are in the way, so who know how far I could route a hose inside the tranny to suck out as much ATF as possible. Maybe I would be able to get half it out and be left with a 50% ATF and 50% RP syncromax mix. (the two mixes would be compatible). i'm figuring this should yield some of the benefits of switching fluids. Flame On!"
any IMO on talking trans fluid out through the drain plug
"Yeah, umm, possibly a stupid question, but the thought is hanging on to me.
My drain plug bolt is stripped right. I had plans to put RP syncromax in it. What do you all thing the possibilty of sucking out some of the ATF through the fill hole would be. I do realize that gears are in the way, so who know how far I could route a hose inside the tranny to suck out as much ATF as possible. Maybe I would be able to get half it out and be left with a 50% ATF and 50% RP syncromax mix. (the two mixes would be compatible). i'm figuring this should yield some of the benefits of switching fluids. Flame On!"
any IMO on talking trans fluid out through the drain plug
#18
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Whatever you do make sure you have a new plug before you do anything. Lots-o-luck getting one from GM.
To get the old one out tack weld your shaved allen key to the stripped plug to break it loose. Once it's loose the plug is easy to turn. Cut off your tack welded allen key and remove the plug.
To get the old one out tack weld your shaved allen key to the stripped plug to break it loose. Once it's loose the plug is easy to turn. Cut off your tack welded allen key and remove the plug.
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Just for everybody's future reference. If you happen to strip it out like i did, you can CAREFULLY use a hammer and chisel, you HAVE to get a deep set into the outer edge if you don't hit hard and get deep all you will do is chip it away. My dad showed me that trick after i just about gave up on it. And no you can't get vise grips on it.
#20
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Just for everybody's future reference. If you happen to strip it out like i did, you can CAREFULLY use a hammer and chisel, you HAVE to get a deep set into the outer edge if you don't hit hard and get deep all you will do is chip it away. My dad showed me that trick after i just about gave up on it. And no you can't get vise grips on it.
#22
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I know I'm reviving an old thread but I was just wondering what the OP did to fix the problem. I was thinking of JB welding the wrench to the bolt then cutting the wrench so I could turn the bolt once I broke it loose. Anyone have a better and easier idea?
#23
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snap on and other companies make an 'IMPACT DRIVER'/ This tool accepts the allen socket, and is then hammered on the end with a BFH; as it is hit, the tool rotates the trans plug. I use this tool often, peeps are fond of over torquing the drain plug and fill plugs.
"An impact driver is a tool that delivers a strong, sudden rotational and downward force. In conjunction with toughened screwdriver bits and socket sets, they are often used by mechanics to loosen larger screws (bolts) and nuts that are corrosively "frozen" or over-torqued. The direction can also be reversed for situations where screws have to be tightened with torque greater than a screwdriver can reasonably provide."
hope this helps
google/wiki Impact driver
"An impact driver is a tool that delivers a strong, sudden rotational and downward force. In conjunction with toughened screwdriver bits and socket sets, they are often used by mechanics to loosen larger screws (bolts) and nuts that are corrosively "frozen" or over-torqued. The direction can also be reversed for situations where screws have to be tightened with torque greater than a screwdriver can reasonably provide."
hope this helps
google/wiki Impact driver
#24
I appreciate the info, however, the location of the transmission drain plug does not allow for any type of power tool since there is about an inch of clearance from the plug to the frame rail. Why GM designed it so...
#25
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listen not to be rude but i take care of this everyday. On Cobalts. F35. I use a 3/8 extension, a 3/8 drive metric allen socket on the end, an impact driver on the extension and a B F Hammer. Surely I dont need to post apicture?
its not a power tool. its an impact driver.
its not a power tool. its an impact driver.