Drivetrain Transmission, LSD, Clutch, Driveline, Axles...

Whats the "I" stand for??

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Old 11-10-2008, 09:53 PM
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I and L don't make any difference in accleration or shifting at higher rpm---they just hold first gear in L and don't shift into 4th in the case of I
Old 11-10-2008, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by avro206
I and L don't make any difference in accleration or shifting at higher rpm---they just hold first gear in L and don't shift into 4th in the case of I
It makes a big difference in acceleration if you don't have your selector in "L" and you get wheelspin....traction control kills performance and turns your Cobalt into a wimp...
Old 11-10-2008, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Red07SSNA
There is a possibility of the tranny going into 3rd gear at redline if you leave it in "L".

I have not done this but I have been PMd by a member who claims his tranny shifts into 3rd with his selector in "L".

Anybody else have this happen when they forgot to shift up to "I" after tranny went into 2nd with selector in "L"?
No L only goes 1st and 2nd.
You can go all the way to redline in 1st, it will shift to 2nd. If you keep on it after that once you hit redline it will not shift to 3rd. You must go up to 'I' or 'D' in order to go into 3rd gear.

Originally Posted by avro206
I and L don't make any difference in accleration or shifting at higher rpm---they just hold first gear in L and don't shift into 4th in the case of I
Wrong. That's why you ran a 16.2 stock. Most stock 2.4 autos run almost a half a second faster then that

L is much better to launch in then D, trust me.

Last edited by INDColtsFan18; 11-10-2008 at 10:08 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 11-10-2008, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by INDColtsFan18
No L only goes 1st and 2nd.
You can go all the way to redline in 1st, it will shift to 2nd. If you keep on it after that once you hit redline it will not shift to 3rd. You must go up to 'I' or 'D' in order to go into 3rd gear.



Wrong. That's why you ran a 16.2 stock. Most stock 2.4 autos run almost a half a second faster then that

L is much better to launch in then D, trust me.
don' read much do you? Please read my sig--all is explained there. To sum up:

1. That 16.2 was in a 5 speed car at nealry 5000 feet density alt.

2. My automatic 2.4L ran 16.8--again at nearly 5000 DA

You can take off 1 sec in DA like these. SO I am right there with every other 2.4L--auto or 5 speed

3. Raced numerous times...left in D and manually shifted. All 60ft times were the same.
Old 11-11-2008, 12:39 AM
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i dont see how they could be the same... if i dont have mine in L it chirps quick then the t/c kicks in and kills the power for atleast a full second
Old 11-11-2008, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by SilverSurfer
i dont see how they could be the same... if i dont have mine in L it chirps quick then the t/c kicks in and kills the power for atleast a full second
Mine does the same thing...if I have it in "D" when the wheel starts to spin the engine goes into it's "lazy" mode -- I originally thought there was something wrong with the engine. It doesn't do this in "L". Before I knew why this was happening I thought my SS was a "dog" off-the-line....my 06 LS 2.2 didn't do it (didn't have TC) so it was a real shocker after getting the SS/NA. If you have the SS/NA (or 2.2 with TC) it's best to start in "L" for maximum acceleration.
Old 11-11-2008, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by avro206
don' read much do you? Please read my sig--all is explained there. To sum up:

1. That 16.2 was in a 5 speed car at nealry 5000 feet density alt.

2. My automatic 2.4L ran 16.8--again at nearly 5000 DA

You can take off 1 sec in DA like these. SO I am right there with every other 2.4L--auto or 5 speed

3. Raced numerous times...left in D and manually shifted. All 60ft times were the same.
Wrong, the equation is actually:
1/4 mile time = (previous time) + (DA calculation)

53.8% of the variation in ź mile times can be explained by density altitude. The other 46.2% is explained by other factors such as: track conditions, driver’s skill level, weight reductions, tire psi, quality of tires, gas, head wind, tail wind, etc.
So basically, 53.8% of your 1/4 mile time you can say its due to Density Altittude. the other 46.2% you can say, well this track sucks, or Im not a good driver, or my tires are old. blah blah, etc.

General Rule:
For every +/-1000 feet change in DA, there is a +/-.13 second change in ź mile times.

example:say i ran a 13.4 previously, now if density altittude is -700......
you use the regression equation = 1/4 mile time = 13.4 + 0.000137 DA
= 1/4 mile time = 13.4 + .000137(-700) = 13.30 E/T time
So, basically with Density Altitude at -700ft. I should run 13.3 on the 1/4 mile. anything lower than that is a good time.

Therefore, you still suck. 5000 feet = -.65 sec, putting you at 16.15 ET with your auto 2.4L.

Also Note, your still wrong. D is slower then L off the line, shut the **** up.
Old 11-11-2008, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Red07SSNA
Mine does the same thing...if I have it in "D" when the wheel starts to spin the engine goes into it's "lazy" mode -- I originally thought there was something wrong with the engine. It doesn't do this in "L". Before I knew why this was happening I thought my SS was a "dog" off-the-line....my 06 LS 2.2 didn't do it (didn't have TC) so it was a real shocker after getting the SS/NA. If you have the SS/NA (or 2.2 with TC) it's best to start in "L" for maximum acceleration.
since u had both, how much better does the 2.4 run than the 2.2?
Old 11-11-2008, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by SilverSurfer
since u had both, how much better does the 2.4 run than the 2.2?
The 2.2 and 2.4 are very close in performance. the 2.4 will easily walk away at highway speeds and above. The 2.4 (stock for stock) will only out-accelerate a 2.2 off-the-line by a car length or two -- but if you leave an auto 2.4 in Drive and the 2.2 doesn't have TC the 2.2 will out-accelerate the 2.4 when the TC kicks in and the 2.4 will play "catch-up" until speeds are above 60-70 MPH (You may not even hear the wheel spin -- TC is that quick to react). My 06 LS outran a SS 2.4 easily up to 70 MPH and I thought it was the GMPP mods (the SS 2.4 had no mods). Only after I got my SS 2.4 and put all the GMPP mods on it did I find that my 2.4 would behave the same way as the SS 2.4 my 06 LS beat -- the owner had left it in "D" like I did and found out a 2.2 will out accelerate you because of the TC. Point is on a SS/Sport 2.4 PUT THE SELECTOR IN "L" for the best off-the-line acceleration -- no need to give Honda owners a little advantage
Old 11-11-2008, 01:21 PM
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"Indecisive" for those who can't decide whether they want LOW, or just leave it in DRIVE. It's a tough choice.
Old 11-11-2008, 01:25 PM
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Moved to Drivetrain...
Old 11-11-2008, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Red07SSNA
"L" is for off-the-line performance. It turns off the Traction Control (TC), engages the low/reverse band to assist the one-way roller assy through first gear, and holds the tranny in 1st gear until redline and shifts into 2nd gear. Once in 2nd gear you should shift up to "I" before hitting redline.

"I" is for "spirited driving. It is full automatic but doesn't allow the tranny to shift into Over Drive. The tranny will upshift at higher engine RPMs and will also downshift on its' own as you decelerate. TC does not get turned off -- if you get wheel spin and TC engages you lose power for a few seconds. You can drive in "I" but you lose MPG because the tranny won't go into OD.

"D" is forget-about-it and just drive. Best for MPG as the tranny will upshift to a higher gear quicker and go into OD for the best MPG.

Knowing what your tranny does is important so that you can use it to your full advantage.

Now let those truly ignorant manual drivers start their "if you want to shift you should have gotten a manual" posts
Truth
Old 11-11-2008, 11:33 PM
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I= I better get out of here before this thread turns into a flame war like the others.

.

I does equal intermediate as others said.
Old 11-12-2008, 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Red07SSNA View Post
"L" is for off-the-line performance. It turns off the Traction Control (TC), engages the low/reverse band to assist the one-way roller assy through first gear, and holds the tranny in 1st gear until redline and shifts into 2nd gear. Once in 2nd gear you should shift up to "I" before hitting redline.

"I" is for "spirited driving. It is full automatic but doesn't allow the tranny to shift into Over Drive. The tranny will upshift at higher engine RPMs and will also downshift on its' own as you decelerate. TC does not get turned off -- if you get wheel spin and TC engages you lose power for a few seconds. You can drive in "I" but you lose MPG because the tranny won't go into OD.

"D" is forget-about-it and just drive. Best for MPG as the tranny will upshift to a higher gear quicker and go into OD for the best MPG.

Knowing what your tranny does is important so that you can use it to your full advantage.

Now let those truly ignorant manual drivers start their "if you want to shift you should have gotten a manual" posts


thats exactly how it works... and it wont mess ur tranny up ..i asked a dealer and my own mechanic about this and theres even a name for it... its called speed shifting.. for those who didnt know
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