chrisjaldin

iTrader: (6)

I'm installing my new amp but my fuse keeps on blowing. I got the piooner amp 760Watts with two 30 amp fuses on it. A power cable in-line fuse with 60 amp AGU fuse. So, after plugging the negative cable to the battery, I join the two pieces of the 60 agu fuse holder; fuse blows. I'm using a capacitor GSI with the in-line fuse and a direct power cable to the amp from the capacitor. What should I do? Dont have much fuses left.

chrisjaldin

iTrader: (6)

Please some help

Magz_rule

iTrader: (3)

First thing id try is ditching the capacitor and running the amp straight from the power cable. Caps are kinda useless anway, just adds clutter and extra problems, if that doesnt work check your power wire, make sure theres no bare metal showing anywhere, no scraped insulation, etc..

chrisjaldin

iTrader: (6)

I must connect battery cables and then agu fuse at last? this fuse is of glass, not of plastic as usually.

Magz_rule

iTrader: (3)

Well yea keep the fuse on the power line to, pretty much just ditch the cap and try it

chrisjaldin

iTrader: (6)

The 60 agu fuse is right for a dual 30 amp fused amp?...omg, I'm doubting all again

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

it blows right away first thing?

chrisjaldin

iTrader: (6)

Yes. During installation I took out the negative cable of the battery and just before hook it again, I took out the AGU fuse. But when I put the AGU fuse to its holder, it burned right away.

I also tried, when the fuse is on the holder already connected, hooking just the negative cable after install all...but the result was worst. Burned for aggresively :S

turbohornet88

try putting your negative cable to the body or some piece of metal to the car. I drilled a hole through my bottom trunk area, sanded it down to bare metal and screwed down the eye hole for the neg cable there. Or you are shorting your cables out somewhere.

dillw33d

iTrader: (1)

Did you charge your cap first? I left my old car sit for like 2 weeks and went to start it and the cap had drained, and blew my fuse.

Car Audio Capacitor Installation

I just use a lightbulb where it says resistor if I don't have anything decent laying around

chrisjaldin

iTrader: (6)

How did you charge it? using a light buld?... how exactly... You are probably right, capacitor must have drained because it was on a mechanical shop about a 2 weeks.... I'm going to get a voltimeter right now...Hold on

dillw33d

iTrader: (1)

It's kind of a tricky situation, you have to touch a wire from your positive to the side of the light bulb, and the other to the black tip on the bottom to the positive on your cap, with your amp unhooked from the cap, and only the cap hooked to gnd. its tough to do with only one person unless you have an automotive bulb. They make charging resistors but I have no clue where to find them.

chrisjaldin

iTrader: (6)

Mmmm.. Maybe, it's better for now to just put away the cap and connect the battery to the amp directly. I'll have a audio professional do the charging for me. Anyways , I'm not sure how to proceed with the order of connecting the cables to the battery or the fuse... First correct if I'm mistaken.

The fuse of the power cable must be the same amperage as the fuses on the amplifier? In my case 60 agu fuse for two 30 amp maxi fuses?

When I connect back the negative cable to the battery I must have the fuse already in-line on the power cable connected to the battery?

dillw33d

iTrader: (1)

There's a formula to determine fuse size. Its something to do with rms wattage and stuff like that. I can't remember it off the top of my head and I'm on my phone so (not to sound like a dick) but can't look it up. Best of luck to you man. Hopefully empjj or someone can drop some info by.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

whoa whoa calm down here fellas. If the fuse is popping right away then the issue isnt fuse size. and i wouldn't put the fuse in then do the negative for the power. put the fuse in with the negative already connected. also charging a cap is cool and all but its not a gigantic deal. if you hook it up like you should without charging it you'll be just fine

with that said if the fuse pops first thing like you said then there's only 2 possible situations. the positive wire is shorting out somewhere down the line. either a screw thru it its shorting out going thru the firewall... ect ect OR its an equipment problem. either your capacitor is broken or you amp is broken. first thing would be checking the wire. go thru every last inch of it and look for something wrong. then i would take the cap out of the equation for now and see if it still does it. if so then its the amp

chrisjaldin

iTrader: (6)

I just skip the cap and connect the power cable to the amp and it worked. I'll have the cap charge other time.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

in that case the cap is probably broken... or was hooked up backwards

dillw33d

iTrader: (1)

Or the fact that the cap has such a minuscule resistance that it allows a ton of current to pass through. Same principle why you don't put a voltage to ground without a resistance. The second his amp turns on and completes the circuit, his cap tries to charge itself all at once, surging FAR above 60-70A.

Bad for your battery, bad for your cap, bad for your fuse. charge that ****. The only reason why other electronic devices with caps (cameras etc) don't need charging is their charge constant/charge cycle is far smaller since we are talking Micro, Nano and even Pico Farads (10^-6 all the way to 10^-12) and possibly literally millions of times smaller.

I don't want to sound like a dick, and I don't want to start **** with under 50 posts. I just don't want him to ditch a fine cap.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

if the problem was the cap charging the amp being on or even connected wouldn't make a difference. once the capacitor sees power it will try to charge.

i do agree with you thou i forgot to ask the size of the capacitor, if its a big capacitor it could theoretically blow the fuse if its not charged BUT a 1f or 2f cap is not going to blow a 60a car audio fuse from charging.

dillw33d

iTrader: (1)

Idk man, I had a 60A maxi in my pontiac when i had it, sat for 4 weeks while I was in germany, and I turned her on, only to find subs play for a split second then quit, and then my low voltage chime beeped. agree to disagree.

1coolss

Caps are useless, its just look shiny, LED blinking lights, and FART** power. 0-1000rms watts should be fine with factory electrical (depends on the way you tuned the amp). Caps discharged itself when sat for awhile. Just do the big 3 for this simple setup and you should be good..