blackbalt sport

I did a fuse tap for my remote wire from my amp. I'm tapped into the wiper fuse right now like I read on the FAQ section of this site but now everytime I turn unlock my doors, lock my doors, turn on the key, or do anything my subs give make a popping sound. I also tried tapping into the radio fuse but it still happened. Anyway to get rid of this? I use the high level inputs on my amp to get the signal and they are spliced to my rear speakers (I also read this on the same FAQ page).

Brucesblack

run a toggle switch to the wire you have and turn it on AFTER the radio is on !!!! , easy way to fix the problem

blackbalt sport

Could do that even though that is a real pain. Also, does there have to be a certain size of fuse that the remote is tapped to? For example can I tap it into a larger fuse like 15A - 20A?

joeworkstoohard

the issue is the amp, not the fuse itself, add a small time delayed relay.

blackbalt sport

Ok thanks but just wondering what the reasoning behind that is? And where would I put this relay? And yes I just checked it out and its not the fuse. I had the remote turn on wire totally disconnected and it still did it. It must be the signal it is getting from the rear speakers.

joeworkstoohard

a pop is usually one of two things, either the amp is getting an odd signal from the deck, or B, it's powering on hot.

what sometimes happens is that the amp comes on before the deck sends it any signal, so the pop is the deck coming on. the delay allows the deck to "boot" and send something bbefore the amp clicks on.

basically, it's the same theory as a switch to turn on after the radio is on, just automated.

blackbalt sport

Ok.. ok. Just another question but this problem wouldn't have anything to do with where my ground is would it? My ground wire for my amp is on the bolt that keeps the car's ground wire to the battery terminals. Its not on the metal piece where the ground runs to. Just an idea but could this be it?

joeworkstoohard

un likely, but that's still a bad spot for a ground.

Switt23

iTrader: (7)

From my expierence that popping noise comes from the amp getting turned on and basically immediately receving signal when it's not ready to.

Like stated above the best solution is either run a time delayed relay or run it to a switch. I don't see why the switch is so hard, it's just a lot of wire to run. Get a drill and make a small hole for the switch up by your leg on the dash. It's convient to have anyways on a switch because then you can kill the subs whenever need be just by flipping the switch.

blackbalt sport

But what do I attach the switch to? Because like I said before I totally unhooked the remote wire and it still popped. Therefore I don't know what good a switch or relay would do. Do you mean put a switch or relay off the speaker wire that is spliced to my rear speakers or what?

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

exactly... also most gms have some holes int the metal bar that right under the plastic piece under the steering wheel. all the switches at the shop fit perfectly there

that really makes no sense. So when u had the remote wire disconnected the sub popped when u turned your car on/acc? Because the amp wont turn on unless it has 12v at the remote, pos and a ground. If u pull the remote wire and your amp is turning on then either the amp is blown and somehow the remote/12v are touching inside or the wiring job in the back is fucked.

Assuming i had u confused all you do to hook up a switch to the remote wire is splice the wire and hook up one side to each "terminal" or prewired wire. Doesn't really matter which is which since one side will be on (connected) or off (disconnected) and theres no real polarity

Switt23

iTrader: (7)

That was my thoughts as well... without a remote switch wire, the amp won't turn on. The old fashion no switch way was to take a wire and strip both ends and just connect the remote terminal to the pos terminal, but if there is absoultely no connection to the remote wire the subs are wired wrong.

He might want to make sure that the Speaker wires aren't touching as well. If you get a - wire touching the + wire you can get some pretty weird interferance, as well as arcing lol.

If you want a fast answer... take a picture of the wiring on the amp, Emperor or I could probably answer your question by looking at it.

blackbalt sport

The sub pops not only when I turn the key but also anytime I lock or unlock my doors, or trunk. Or whenever I open/close my doors or trunk. When I open my door the sub pops once and the amp is on for a few seconds then it turns off and the sub pops again.

Going out now to check out whether my remote wire is somehow picking up interference and I'll check the speaker wires also.

So I found out that apparently my amp doesn't need a remote wire at all to turn on, all it needs is a signal. This still doesn't solve my problem. What I am thinking is that everytime the speaker gets a signal from the door chime the amp turns on and makes a popping noise. Now the only question is how do I get rid of this? I am not buying a Line Level converter seeing as this amp is brand new. What just really pisses me off is that my local install dealer is really a bunch of retards. I'm sure anyone on this site knows a lot more than them. If there's no other way around it I guess I'll have to go with the switch.

Switt23

iTrader: (7)

My suggestion... run a switch to the 12v power wire. Make sure it's fused on both ends of the switch.

So it would look like


Battery 12V --------- [In-line Fuse]----- [ / \ ] Toggle Switch-------[In-line Fuse]-----12v Amp Terminal.

The 2nd fuse is really just a incase, it's probably not needed. This way you can get in the car and start the car and radio, then turn the amp on to power the subs, listen to them and be happy. When parking the car, flip the switch off, then turn the car off after say 3 seconds to allow the amp to completely turn off.

Otherwise... buy a new amp with a remote switch terminal. I have never heard of an amp turning on with just an input signal. My guess is that somewhere in the amp the crossover wires cross the power wire and everytime the crossover sends either the low or high end frequency it crosses the power wire causing the pop noise.

Not sure, wouldn't be able to know unless the amp was cracked opened.

Also, i would recommend moving the ground to the seat belt bracket on the back seat bench. Take a screw driver and scuff the plate part (The seatbelt, not the floor) so it's fresh metal for a better ground.

The reason to do the plate and not the floor is to prevent the chance of rusting. The plate won't get exposed to water unless there is already a major rust issue.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

what amp is it? how are u getting signal? rcas, line out converter or high level input

oh do me a favor... turn the car on and bang on the rear deck from the bottom and tell me if the pop

Theres 2 different kinds of high level sensing... one senses 6v thru the speaker wire and turns on that way. THe other im not 100% sure how it works but simple terms it senses when the speaker moves instead of an actual signal from the radio.

So the only way to fix r problem is to somehow bypass the remote sensing turn on and run a remote wire to the fuse box up front. you may have to use a LOC instead of high level inputs at that point im not sure. or get a different amp

blackbalt sport

I'm getting my signal from the rear speakers. I have speaker wire spliced into each rear speaker which leads into to rca cables into my amp. My amp is a pioneer GMD7400 and has a switch to which input you are using. I have it switched to SP for speaker input. If I switch it to RCA as I tried yesterday I don't get the popping noise but the amp still turns on for a second. I'm just worried that there may be too much power coming in from the speaker inputs and running as rca. i'll check the rear deck later

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

the second part is the most important... i only half had an idea of what was wrong before reading ur post to c17

blackbalt sport

So does it harm the amp then if I have my amp set to RCA when it is actually getting the signal from the speaker input?

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

dont see why it would. do u have a remote wire ran?

blackbalt sport

No I don't. I took it out after I found out I didn't need it.