attaching amp to factory battery
03-19-2009, 11:51 AM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 07-02-08
Location: Arlington, TN
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
attaching amp to factory battery
Tried a search but couldn't find an answer to a simple question. How to attach an amp to a factory battery setup. have an 08 base ls.
03-19-2009, 06:18 PM
#4
New Member
Join Date: 03-06-09
Location: Davenport, IA
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yep our trunks are soo big, we can fit a bike and a battery in it. lol. but, yeah, what would make you think it would need to be wired up differently.
03-19-2009, 10:16 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: 01-22-06
Location: S.FL
Posts: 8,396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
03-20-2009, 12:54 AM
#18
0 gauge from knukonceptz, it was the kollosus or however you spell it
i spent like 90 bucks on everything, i got 6 ft of power, 2 ft ground, triple battery terminal thingy, high flow inline fuse, 10g kasa speaker wire and a 0g terminal ring for grounding
i spent like 90 bucks on everything, i got 6 ft of power, 2 ft ground, triple battery terminal thingy, high flow inline fuse, 10g kasa speaker wire and a 0g terminal ring for grounding
03-20-2009, 08:17 AM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: 01-22-06
Location: S.FL
Posts: 8,396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
something about using a common body ground to ensure no stray voltage or something like that, ill find it.
ither way. what do you think your battery is grounded to? your taking a longer route. the voltage does not go like... back into the battery.
now all your grounds just use the neg terminal of your bat as a point to collect your stray voltage and pass it to your body ground.
ill find the actual answer somewhere tho hold on.
03-20-2009, 09:41 AM
#22
Just some food for thought,
whats the difference from ac voltage in a house and dc voltage in a car other then the obvious alternating part? they are both electrical circuits with a positive and a negative in AC the "ground" is a completely separate conductor and all its purpose is to be a protection device, in the case of over current for some reason electricity should flow along this ground and hopefully prevent ur house wires from melting and causing a fire.
In a dcv car the "ground" is nothing of the sort it is the negative circuit hence removing the battery ground and ur car electrical components no longer work. Assuming you had a very basic vehicle electrically and the battery was up front like normal... play along with me and we'll assume the alt wasn't connected to the engine electrically with metal and the engine not connected to the body and each electrical component that normally gets its negative via that connection had its own wire running straight to the battery... If you were to eliminate the body ground and use wire to connect the battery and alternator would the car still work? (remember very basic old vehicle, no computer ect)
The answer is yes all dc needs is a pos and neg and as long as they are safely connected electrically it would work exactly the same but it seems a lil redundant to do all that work to make sure the negative isn't touching the body and making a body "ground" as we know it today. Along with the fact that in cars today there's so many different electrical components that "ground" to the closest place they can find. One could argue the only reason for a body ground is to save money. Why pay for tons of copper wire when your surrounded by metal? The second reason for the body ground is like you stated resistance. the fog lights or whatever in the engine bay that's grounded there will have a better connection resistance wise then running a thin wire all the way to the battery in the back. The only way for it to be a better connection resistance wise were if you connected them with a wire thick enough to have a lower resistance then the body ground. Running 8g or whatever for EVERY electrical component to ground straight to the battery is not only obnoxious and boarderline impossible but again expensive.
Copper is a better conductor and has lower resistance then steel. so if the battery is close its will have less resistance to ground to the battery directly
whats the difference from ac voltage in a house and dc voltage in a car other then the obvious alternating part? they are both electrical circuits with a positive and a negative in AC the "ground" is a completely separate conductor and all its purpose is to be a protection device, in the case of over current for some reason electricity should flow along this ground and hopefully prevent ur house wires from melting and causing a fire.
In a dcv car the "ground" is nothing of the sort it is the negative circuit hence removing the battery ground and ur car electrical components no longer work. Assuming you had a very basic vehicle electrically and the battery was up front like normal... play along with me and we'll assume the alt wasn't connected to the engine electrically with metal and the engine not connected to the body and each electrical component that normally gets its negative via that connection had its own wire running straight to the battery... If you were to eliminate the body ground and use wire to connect the battery and alternator would the car still work? (remember very basic old vehicle, no computer ect)
The answer is yes all dc needs is a pos and neg and as long as they are safely connected electrically it would work exactly the same but it seems a lil redundant to do all that work to make sure the negative isn't touching the body and making a body "ground" as we know it today. Along with the fact that in cars today there's so many different electrical components that "ground" to the closest place they can find. One could argue the only reason for a body ground is to save money. Why pay for tons of copper wire when your surrounded by metal? The second reason for the body ground is like you stated resistance. the fog lights or whatever in the engine bay that's grounded there will have a better connection resistance wise then running a thin wire all the way to the battery in the back. The only way for it to be a better connection resistance wise were if you connected them with a wire thick enough to have a lower resistance then the body ground. Running 8g or whatever for EVERY electrical component to ground straight to the battery is not only obnoxious and boarderline impossible but again expensive.
Copper is a better conductor and has lower resistance then steel. so if the battery is close its will have less resistance to ground to the battery directly
03-20-2009, 10:09 AM
#23
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 07-02-08
Location: Arlington, TN
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm sorry. apparently in typical fashion, I didnt clarify my question. My bad. Yes, Positive to positive and negative to negative, that part I got. My question is in looking at the factory battery they installed, it doesnt have secondary posts. Do I have to replace the factory connector thats on the posts? how do I make the connection TO the battery?
03-20-2009, 02:23 PM
#24
Member
Join Date: 08-18-08
Location: Utah
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just some food for thought,
whats the difference from ac voltage in a house and dc voltage in a car other then the obvious alternating part? they are both electrical circuits with a positive and a negative in AC the "ground" is a completely separate conductor and all its purpose is to be a protection device, in the case of over current for some reason electricity should flow along this ground and hopefully prevent ur house wires from melting and causing a fire.
In a dcv car the "ground" is nothing of the sort it is the negative circuit hence removing the battery ground and ur car electrical components no longer work. Assuming you had a very basic vehicle electrically and the battery was up front like normal... play along with me and we'll assume the alt wasn't connected to the engine electrically with metal and the engine not connected to the body and each electrical component that normally gets its negative via that connection had its own wire running straight to the battery... If you were to eliminate the body ground and use wire to connect the battery and alternator would the car still work? (remember very basic old vehicle, no computer ect)
The answer is yes all dc needs is a pos and neg and as long as they are safely connected electrically it would work exactly the same but it seems a lil redundant to do all that work to make sure the negative isn't touching the body and making a body "ground" as we know it today. Along with the fact that in cars today there's so many different electrical components that "ground" to the closest place they can find. One could argue the only reason for a body ground is to save money. Why pay for tons of copper wire when your surrounded by metal? The second reason for the body ground is like you stated resistance. the fog lights or whatever in the engine bay that's grounded there will have a better connection resistance wise then running a thin wire all the way to the battery in the back. The only way for it to be a better connection resistance wise were if you connected them with a wire thick enough to have a lower resistance then the body ground. Running 8g or whatever for EVERY electrical component to ground straight to the battery is not only obnoxious and boarderline impossible but again expensive.
Copper is a better conductor and has lower resistance then steel. so if the battery is close its will have less resistance to ground to the battery directly
whats the difference from ac voltage in a house and dc voltage in a car other then the obvious alternating part? they are both electrical circuits with a positive and a negative in AC the "ground" is a completely separate conductor and all its purpose is to be a protection device, in the case of over current for some reason electricity should flow along this ground and hopefully prevent ur house wires from melting and causing a fire.
In a dcv car the "ground" is nothing of the sort it is the negative circuit hence removing the battery ground and ur car electrical components no longer work. Assuming you had a very basic vehicle electrically and the battery was up front like normal... play along with me and we'll assume the alt wasn't connected to the engine electrically with metal and the engine not connected to the body and each electrical component that normally gets its negative via that connection had its own wire running straight to the battery... If you were to eliminate the body ground and use wire to connect the battery and alternator would the car still work? (remember very basic old vehicle, no computer ect)
The answer is yes all dc needs is a pos and neg and as long as they are safely connected electrically it would work exactly the same but it seems a lil redundant to do all that work to make sure the negative isn't touching the body and making a body "ground" as we know it today. Along with the fact that in cars today there's so many different electrical components that "ground" to the closest place they can find. One could argue the only reason for a body ground is to save money. Why pay for tons of copper wire when your surrounded by metal? The second reason for the body ground is like you stated resistance. the fog lights or whatever in the engine bay that's grounded there will have a better connection resistance wise then running a thin wire all the way to the battery in the back. The only way for it to be a better connection resistance wise were if you connected them with a wire thick enough to have a lower resistance then the body ground. Running 8g or whatever for EVERY electrical component to ground straight to the battery is not only obnoxious and boarderline impossible but again expensive.
Copper is a better conductor and has lower resistance then steel. so if the battery is close its will have less resistance to ground to the battery directly
03-20-2009, 03:29 PM
#25
Make sure you have a nice warm place to work with 0 guage
It tends to get a bit stiff when its cold.
It was cold as hell when I did my 0 guage from the battery to the fuse box, had to use a hair dryer to warm it up in order to bend it in some places
Sorry didn't flip to the second page, the post was directed at brickloaf
It tends to get a bit stiff when its cold.
It was cold as hell when I did my 0 guage from the battery to the fuse box, had to use a hair dryer to warm it up in order to bend it in some places
Sorry didn't flip to the second page, the post was directed at brickloaf