Originally Posted by Spun

Make sure you have a nice warm place to work with 0 guage
It tends to get a bit stiff when its cold.
It was cold as hell when I did my 0 guage from the battery to the fuse box, had to use a hair dryer to warm it up in order to bend it in some places

Sorry didn't flip to the second page, the post was directed at brickloaf

Originally Posted by EmperorJJ1

Just some food for thought,

whats the difference from ac voltage in a house and dc voltage in a car other then the obvious alternating part? they are both electrical circuits with a positive and a negative in AC the "ground" is a completely separate conductor and all its purpose is to be a protection device, in the case of over current for some reason electricity should flow along this ground and hopefully prevent ur house wires from melting and causing a fire.

In a dcv car the "ground" is nothing of the sort it is the negative circuit hence removing the battery ground and ur car electrical components no longer work. Assuming you had a very basic vehicle electrically and the battery was up front like normal... play along with me and we'll assume the alt wasn't connected to the engine electrically with metal and the engine not connected to the body and each electrical component that normally gets its negative via that connection had its own wire running straight to the battery... If you were to eliminate the body ground and use wire to connect the battery and alternator would the car still work? (remember very basic old vehicle, no computer ect)

The answer is yes all dc needs is a pos and neg and as long as they are safely connected electrically it would work exactly the same but it seems a lil redundant to do all that work to make sure the negative isn't touching the body and making a body "ground" as we know it today. Along with the fact that in cars today there's so many different electrical components that "ground" to the closest place they can find. One could argue the only reason for a body ground is to save money. Why pay for tons of copper wire when your surrounded by metal? The second reason for the body ground is like you stated resistance. the fog lights or whatever in the engine bay that's grounded there will have a better connection resistance wise then running a thin wire all the way to the battery in the back. The only way for it to be a better connection resistance wise were if you connected them with a wire thick enough to have a lower resistance then the body ground. Running 8g or whatever for EVERY electrical component to ground straight to the battery is not only obnoxious and boarderline impossible but again expensive.

Copper is a better conductor and has lower resistance then steel. so if the battery is close its will have less resistance to ground to the battery directly

Originally Posted by polarbair

I'm sorry. apparently in typical fashion, I didnt clarify my question. My bad. Yes, Positive to positive and negative to negative, that part I got. My question is in looking at the factory battery they installed, it doesnt have secondary posts. Do I have to replace the factory connector thats on the posts? how do I make the connection TO the battery?

Originally Posted by xray_racer

I am no expert, but I have had some experience and I know when I put a new engine in my '70 Camaro and didn't connect a wire from the battery to the frame of the car the starter would not turn over. As soon as I connected a wire from the neg bat terminal to the body it started right up. Someone that understands this better please speak up, I would like to know. Thanks

Originally Posted by stinkyfisherman

Well put.

Originally Posted by EmperorJJ1

??? it would help probably help but with the 4g stock its not "needed" persay