Battery Question
07-08-2009, 12:01 PM
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Battery Question
I'm looking to purchase a Carquest NGT Extreme Battery.
I just need to know what model number I need to get. I'm running a 1200 watt amp and getting the lights dimming, and heard buying a better battery can solve this problem.
Thanks for your help!
p.s. I looked at the Optima Yellow Top, but can't find any locally, and to order one in will cost $230+
I just need to know what model number I need to get. I'm running a 1200 watt amp and getting the lights dimming, and heard buying a better battery can solve this problem.
Thanks for your help!
p.s. I looked at the Optima Yellow Top, but can't find any locally, and to order one in will cost $230+
07-08-2009, 04:12 PM
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I'm looking to purchase a Carquest NGT Extreme Battery.
I just need to know what model number I need to get. I'm running a 1200 watt amp and getting the lights dimming, and heard buying a better battery can solve this problem.
Thanks for your help!
p.s. I looked at the Optima Yellow Top, but can't find any locally, and to order one in will cost $230+
I just need to know what model number I need to get. I'm running a 1200 watt amp and getting the lights dimming, and heard buying a better battery can solve this problem.
Thanks for your help!
p.s. I looked at the Optima Yellow Top, but can't find any locally, and to order one in will cost $230+
07-08-2009, 04:40 PM
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Batteries don't solve dimming problems. The main purpose of a battery in a car is to get the car started. Your alternator is not supplying enough current for the demand. Try upgrading the battery/alternator wires first to see if it solves your 'issue'.
I bought my redtop at sears for $150 and yellow tops were the same price, but this was over 5 years ago.
I bought my redtop at sears for $150 and yellow tops were the same price, but this was over 5 years ago.
07-08-2009, 09:05 PM
#5
Batteries don't solve dimming problems. The main purpose of a battery in a car is to get the car started. Your alternator is not supplying enough current for the demand. Try upgrading the battery/alternator wires first to see if it solves your 'issue'.
I bought my redtop at sears for $150 and yellow tops were the same price, but this was over 5 years ago.
I bought my redtop at sears for $150 and yellow tops were the same price, but this was over 5 years ago.
I admit a replacement alt is def the way to go however on a 1200 watt system a better battery and the big 3 (wire upgrade) should be all you need.
The stock battery only puts out 750 amps (I can't remember if thats exact but it should be somewhere in the ball park) Since your amp is drawing power right from the battery it makes a difference.
I'm running 3000+ watts and all be it its not by choice, more due to lack of aftermarket products but I'm doing it on the stock alt and 2 Kinetik HC 1800's since Emp sleeps with the blueprints to that dual alt setup under his pillow
OP-You live in London Ont right?
Heres a list from The Carquest website, just go there and they will be able to tell you what model best suits your setup,
CARQUEST Auto Parts (Super Store)
246 HORTON ST
LONDON, ON N6A 4L6, CAN
CARQUEST Auto Parts
430 FIRST ST
LOND, ON 12345, CAN
CARQUEST Auto Parts
610 Newbold Street Unit 4
London, ON N6E 2T6, CAN
CARQUEST Auto Parts
1510 FANSHAWE PARK ROAD WEST
London, ON N6H 5L8, CAN
CARQUEST Auto Parts
4300 Wellington Road South
London, ON N6E2Z7, CAN
Added- I think the part number your looking for is NG3478, if you think you can get a better deal online, however a battery is considered dangerous materials, thus causing issues when ordering from the states
but spun has it right on!
07-09-2009, 09:30 AM
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Batteries don't solve dimming problems. The main purpose of a battery in a car is to get the car started. Your alternator is not supplying enough current for the demand. Try upgrading the battery/alternator wires first to see if it solves your 'issue'.
I bought my redtop at sears for $150 and yellow tops were the same price, but this was over 5 years ago.
I bought my redtop at sears for $150 and yellow tops were the same price, but this was over 5 years ago.
07-09-2009, 01:26 PM
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A good battery does solve some dimming problems.
I admit a replacement alt is def the way to go however on a 1200 watt system a better battery and the big 3 (wire upgrade) should be all you need.
The stock battery only puts out 750 amps (I can't remember if thats exact but it should be somewhere in the ball park) Since your amp is drawing power right from the battery it makes a difference.
I admit a replacement alt is def the way to go however on a 1200 watt system a better battery and the big 3 (wire upgrade) should be all you need.
The stock battery only puts out 750 amps (I can't remember if thats exact but it should be somewhere in the ball park) Since your amp is drawing power right from the battery it makes a difference.
The 750 amps you're referring to most likely is the cold cranking amps or in other words the amount of current the battery can provide instantaneously not continuously. You need to be worried about what your alternator is rated at amps wise. You can disconnect the battery of your car while its running and it will remain running.
07-09-2009, 11:55 PM
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huh, well a kid I know from High school told me I could have his 3.0 farad cap, because it wasn't working for him, apparently he was still getting the dimming lights even with the cap. The only condition is I had to take it out and put his stuff back together.
Well while I was taking it out, I noticed he didn't have it grounded properly. Needless to say, my dimming problem is now gone. It's nice being able to listen to loud ass music at night.
Still going to upgrade the battery though and do a larger gauge ground from the battery, and some new better battery terminals.
Well while I was taking it out, I noticed he didn't have it grounded properly. Needless to say, my dimming problem is now gone. It's nice being able to listen to loud ass music at night.
Still going to upgrade the battery though and do a larger gauge ground from the battery, and some new better battery terminals.
07-10-2009, 04:20 AM
#12
The appearance of dimming doesn't have much at all to do with the battery itself. Typically what is happening is when you go over the current that your alternator can supply there is a voltage drop and then your system will be pulling its current from the battery alone. Think of the battery as a reserve tank. The dimming you are seeing is the voltage going from say 13.8V (typical normal voltage with a car on/alt running) down to 12V. When you let it get down to this point its up to your batteries capacity. So you can make the dimming less noticeable but its certainly not going to go away by replacing the battery.
The 750 amps you're referring to most likely is the cold cranking amps or in other words the amount of current the battery can provide instantaneously not continuously. You need to be worried about what your alternator is rated at amps wise. You can disconnect the battery of your car while its running and it will remain running.
The 750 amps you're referring to most likely is the cold cranking amps or in other words the amount of current the battery can provide instantaneously not continuously. You need to be worried about what your alternator is rated at amps wise. You can disconnect the battery of your car while its running and it will remain running.
huh, well a kid I know from High school told me I could have his 3.0 farad cap, because it wasn't working for him, apparently he was still getting the dimming lights even with the cap. The only condition is I had to take it out and put his stuff back together.
Well while I was taking it out, I noticed he didn't have it grounded properly. Needless to say, my dimming problem is now gone. It's nice being able to listen to loud ass music at night.
Still going to upgrade the battery though and do a larger gauge ground from the battery, and some new better battery terminals.
Well while I was taking it out, I noticed he didn't have it grounded properly. Needless to say, my dimming problem is now gone. It's nice being able to listen to loud ass music at night.
Still going to upgrade the battery though and do a larger gauge ground from the battery, and some new better battery terminals.
Last edited by EmperorJJ1; 07-10-2009 at 04:20 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
07-15-2009, 07:24 PM
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okay I got the NGT Extreme 9A78DT
which has 780 CA
Hopefully this will power my set up better
Keeping the 3.0 farad cap in place too
I think Im going to buy some heavy duty battery terminals to make sure the power is flowing.
which has 780 CA
Hopefully this will power my set up better
Keeping the 3.0 farad cap in place too
I think Im going to buy some heavy duty battery terminals to make sure the power is flowing.
Last edited by Gotenks; 07-16-2009 at 04:06 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
07-17-2009, 03:58 PM
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Well its good that you made your headlights happy. Remember that the CA rating only determines the starting power of a battery the RC rating is the one you should be concerned about in your situation. You could've dumped the cap and upgraded wiring as well as cleaning up the corosion on alternator/battery connections. You're just giving your alt more work to do with the cap in place. You'd be suprised what a simple $40 mod will do for a stock electrical system.
07-18-2009, 01:46 AM
#17
Unless cobalts come with a sensor to dectect whether or not the battery is there, or the alternator isn't working properly the car will stay on. I've done this on a couple of different cars. Once a car is started the battery is no longer needed that's the point.
Well its good that you made your headlights happy. Remember that the CA rating only determines the starting power of a battery the RC rating is the one you should be concerned about in your situation. You could've dumped the cap and upgraded wiring as well as cleaning up the corosion on alternator/battery connections. You're just giving your alt more work to do with the cap in place. You'd be suprised what a simple $40 mod will do for a stock electrical system.
Well its good that you made your headlights happy. Remember that the CA rating only determines the starting power of a battery the RC rating is the one you should be concerned about in your situation. You could've dumped the cap and upgraded wiring as well as cleaning up the corosion on alternator/battery connections. You're just giving your alt more work to do with the cap in place. You'd be suprised what a simple $40 mod will do for a stock electrical system.
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