Best Sound Deadener?
#1
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Best Sound Deadener?
So i bought some eDead 80 sound deadener from elemental designs audio and placed it everywhere in my trunk and my doors (both on the outside skin, if you're in the car, the panel that would be outside the car, and i placed it in the door on the inner skin). the stock pioneer bass sounds better, especially with new head unit, but i still hear a lot of outside noises and my exhaust.
is there any good (cheap please) product that i could use to maybe place on the floor (if thats the best spot). i know how to take apart the center console, but not the seats or side panels in the back seat area.
recap:
i guess my questions are:
1. what is a good sound deadening product thats cheap
2. does spray on deadeners work well?
3. where would be the best place to cover to eliminate outside noises
overall i want my car pretty silent inside, not 100% mercedes or anything, just a lot better than it is now
is there any good (cheap please) product that i could use to maybe place on the floor (if thats the best spot). i know how to take apart the center console, but not the seats or side panels in the back seat area.
recap:
i guess my questions are:
1. what is a good sound deadening product thats cheap
2. does spray on deadeners work well?
3. where would be the best place to cover to eliminate outside noises
overall i want my car pretty silent inside, not 100% mercedes or anything, just a lot better than it is now
#2
Well, Ive had experience with Dynomat <-- Which is over priced, But works. There is a cheaper verison called Fat Mat Difference i found is that its thiner and doesnt spread as nice hard to explain. Then there's stuff called Lizard Skin. Pretty decent price at 79.99 a Gallon and if your doing the bottom of your truck i would assume this would be not that bad of a install of this stuff. heres a link to that Lizardskin Ceramic Insulation and Sound Control Spray-on Formula
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i've already done the entire bottom trunk, trunk walls, rear deck with the speakers, and the door panels.... all with eDead 80. my issue was that i could still hear lots of road noise, so i was probably going to do the floor (under driver and passenger) the best i could.
i think i saw once that you can't really take out all of the carpet, center console, or seat brackets, so i was going to takeout as much as i could and spray or lay new mat where ever i could reach
i think i saw once that you can't really take out all of the carpet, center console, or seat brackets, so i was going to takeout as much as i could and spray or lay new mat where ever i could reach
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i just looked online. it's basically the same as dynomat, eDead, etc. It's pretty pricey too, for my liking. but i'm realizing that if i wanna do this right, i may have to spend more money than i wanted.
#9
I've heard people mention Brown Bread (now known as B-Quiet) is comparable to Dynomat and much less expensive.
B-Quiet sound deadening material
B-Quiet sound deadening material
#11
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u know my answer before i even say it so im not going to. but ive torn my entire car apart for sound dampening reasons and i have the pics to prove it so while it may not be easy its possible.
I would look at only mat type dampeners. liquid is a bitch to work with and doesn't have an advantage over the mat
I would look at only mat type dampeners. liquid is a bitch to work with and doesn't have an advantage over the mat
#13
u know my answer before i even say it so im not going to. but ive torn my entire car apart for sound dampening reasons and i have the pics to prove it so while it may not be easy its possible.
I would look at only mat type dampeners. liquid is a bitch to work with and doesn't have an advantage over the mat
I would look at only mat type dampeners. liquid is a bitch to work with and doesn't have an advantage over the mat
Sound Deadening Materials for Noise Reduction from Second Skin
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so Emp, would doing the floor (from the inside) make a huge difference, or am i better of saving my money?
what about the sides? i have a coupe and i don't really know how to take apart the panels in the back seat area. Does that area make a difference?
what about the sides? i have a coupe and i don't really know how to take apart the panels in the back seat area. Does that area make a difference?
#15
B-Quiet:
Extreme- $69.99 per 50sqft x2 = $139.98
Ultimate- $119.99 per 50sqft x2 = $239.98
Dynamat:
Extreme- $600.00 for 72sqft + $310.00 for 35sqft = $910.00
Not saying you'll use 100 square feet of sound deadening material, but it seems you get a bit better rate when buying more at once. So maybe you can find a buddy or two and split it. Either way, these are just examples anyway.
And unless I'm reading too much into it, the two mentioned above are kind of an all-purpose sound deadening/vibration reduction solution whereas that Second Skin stuff is a multi-step process (Damplifier + Spectrum + Overkill + Luxury Liner). When I priced out the Damplifier/Damplifier alone, it came out to between the two above in terms of cost, without factoring in the other steps.
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Quick price comparison for 100 sqft:
B-Quiet:
Extreme- $69.99 per 50sqft x2 = $139.98
Ultimate- $119.99 per 50sqft x2 = $239.98
Dynamat:
Extreme- $600.00 for 72sqft + $310.00 for 35sqft = $910.00
Not saying you'll use 100 square feet of sound deadening material, but it seems you get a bit better rate when buying more at once. So maybe you can find a buddy or two and split it. Either way, these are just examples anyway.
And unless I'm reading too much into it, the two mentioned above are kind of an all-purpose sound deadening/vibration reduction solution whereas that Second Skin stuff is a multi-step process (Damplifier + Spectrum + Overkill + Luxury Liner). When I priced out the Damplifier/Damplifier alone, it came out to between the two above in terms of cost, without factoring in the other steps.
B-Quiet:
Extreme- $69.99 per 50sqft x2 = $139.98
Ultimate- $119.99 per 50sqft x2 = $239.98
Dynamat:
Extreme- $600.00 for 72sqft + $310.00 for 35sqft = $910.00
Not saying you'll use 100 square feet of sound deadening material, but it seems you get a bit better rate when buying more at once. So maybe you can find a buddy or two and split it. Either way, these are just examples anyway.
And unless I'm reading too much into it, the two mentioned above are kind of an all-purpose sound deadening/vibration reduction solution whereas that Second Skin stuff is a multi-step process (Damplifier + Spectrum + Overkill + Luxury Liner). When I priced out the Damplifier/Damplifier alone, it came out to between the two above in terms of cost, without factoring in the other steps.
if you look up eDead 80, it's only $2 a square foot and you can order any amount...1, 8, 30.... thats what i did originally. i ordered about 100 square feet. i should probably just stick with this stuff. my friend has a little connection, but it's not much and takes time. its basically free shipping, which is about $60 when you buy 100 square feet
#17
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doing the floor for sure would make a difference. the quarter panels probably would but to be honest i dont know 100%. ive done so much on my car its hard to actually recall and go back and say what did or didn't make a difference. I have more material on the quarter panels of my car then any where else in the car by far thou. like 2-3X more
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my only question now is how to get the trim pieces of by the door sills? the driver side has the cutout for the hood release.... are these panels held in place by those metal pins that are everywhere else?
#20
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I had a 97 taurus with 2 audiobahn alum q 12's running 1200 watts to each sub. I dynomatted the trunk/rear deck and doubled up in the most rattling areas with left overs. It killed about 85% of the sound and from the interior it sounded mint outside was some rattles but I never got to serious into it. If I wanted to I would have dynamatted the entire car.
I Was thinking about trying on a spare trunk lid to spray foam the entire thing, since I work for a huge commercial insulation company, see if that works good. It would bond to everything plug gaps and acts as a barrier and maybe for additional test procedures spray some sound deadening cellulose/k-13 over the foam and covering it all up so you can't see it.
I Was thinking about trying on a spare trunk lid to spray foam the entire thing, since I work for a huge commercial insulation company, see if that works good. It would bond to everything plug gaps and acts as a barrier and maybe for additional test procedures spray some sound deadening cellulose/k-13 over the foam and covering it all up so you can't see it.
#21
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As is usually the case, "good" and "cheap" don't go together.
Good stuff is going to cost you.
Do it right or not at all, that's my motto.
__________________________________________________
Black 2010 SS/TC – G85 |Debadged | GMS1 | Hahn 3” DP and Catback | AEM intake | GM racing pedals | OZ Ultraleggera rims |DEPO 4th gen projectors w/ 6K HIDs | smoked LED tails | 20% 3M tint |Pioneer Avic Z110bt head unit, Alpine PDX-5 amp, Focal speakers all around
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3835837
Good stuff is going to cost you.
Do it right or not at all, that's my motto.
__________________________________________________
Black 2010 SS/TC – G85 |Debadged | GMS1 | Hahn 3” DP and Catback | AEM intake | GM racing pedals | OZ Ultraleggera rims |DEPO 4th gen projectors w/ 6K HIDs | smoked LED tails | 20% 3M tint |Pioneer Avic Z110bt head unit, Alpine PDX-5 amp, Focal speakers all around
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3835837
#22
Words to live by right there. But not everyone has a spare wad of benjamins just laying around to take down to car toys and have the best stuff put in, haha. Obviously the cheapest of the cheap is out, even if you are broke. The trick is to try and balance quality with price.
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