Can I replace stock battery with an Optima red or yellow top?
03-07-2008, 10:13 AM
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Can I replace stock battery with an Optima red or yellow top?
I was looking into replacing my stock battery with something more powerful and reliable. Something along the lines of an optima red top or optima yellow top. Would I be able to replace my stock battery with an optima?
Does anyone know the difference between the two types of batteries?
Also would this void some kind of warranty for me?
any info will help, thanks!
Link:
http://europe.optimabatteries.com/pu...utomotive.html
Does anyone know the difference between the two types of batteries?
Also would this void some kind of warranty for me?
any info will help, thanks!
Link:
http://europe.optimabatteries.com/pu...utomotive.html
03-07-2008, 10:17 AM
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I have a Red Top 35 in my GT, and it works flawlessly. Especially for -35 and -40 mornings. She fires right up, no hesitation. Your warranty will be fine. At least they haven't said anything about mine.
I think the Red Top is just for better overall performance, and the Yellow Top is good if you have alot of power options/add-ons. Not sure if there is even a Yellow Top available for us.
I think the Red Top is just for better overall performance, and the Yellow Top is good if you have alot of power options/add-ons. Not sure if there is even a Yellow Top available for us.
03-07-2008, 10:31 AM
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I had a yellow top in last winter.
Takes some wiggling to get it in... but it's worth it.
A red top is a 'starting battery', as it delivers maximum current with in the first few seconds of draw.
Don't run it dead, or it'll be pretty much pooched.
A yellow top is a deep cycle. It won't deliver as much burst current, but you can pretty much run it into the ground, and it will bounce back to full health. I've found them as being the best for stereo's, as they deliver a more stable current output, and seem to absorb spikes better.
Just my 2cents.
Takes some wiggling to get it in... but it's worth it.
A red top is a 'starting battery', as it delivers maximum current with in the first few seconds of draw.
Don't run it dead, or it'll be pretty much pooched.
A yellow top is a deep cycle. It won't deliver as much burst current, but you can pretty much run it into the ground, and it will bounce back to full health. I've found them as being the best for stereo's, as they deliver a more stable current output, and seem to absorb spikes better.
Just my 2cents.
03-07-2008, 10:50 AM
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So these batteries are just something extra to go along with your stock batterry or are they safe to use for completely replacing your stock one? my stock one is acting up on me because i left my lights on one day & had to get boosted..... ever since, my electrical system hasnt been the same... I just wanna know if i can use one of the optima batteries to replace my stock one... can i?
Or is there some other brand/kind of aftermarket battery i can replace my stock one with that is more powerful?
So you replaced your stock one with a yellow top?
Cool. Did you get rid of the stock battery & just use the red top in your car? I need to know if it is safe to completely replace the stocker.
Or is there some other brand/kind of aftermarket battery i can replace my stock one with that is more powerful?
I had a yellow top in last winter.
Takes some wiggling to get it in... but it's worth it.
A red top is a 'starting battery', as it delivers maximum current with in the first few seconds of draw.
Don't run it dead, or it'll be pretty much pooched.
A yellow top is a deep cycle. It won't deliver as much burst current, but you can pretty much run it into the ground, and it will bounce back to full health. I've found them as being the best for stereo's, as they deliver a more stable current output, and seem to absorb spikes better.
Just my 2cents.
Takes some wiggling to get it in... but it's worth it.
A red top is a 'starting battery', as it delivers maximum current with in the first few seconds of draw.
Don't run it dead, or it'll be pretty much pooched.
A yellow top is a deep cycle. It won't deliver as much burst current, but you can pretty much run it into the ground, and it will bounce back to full health. I've found them as being the best for stereo's, as they deliver a more stable current output, and seem to absorb spikes better.
Just my 2cents.
I have a Red Top 35 in my GT, and it works flawlessly. Especially for -35 and -40 mornings. She fires right up, no hesitation. Your warranty will be fine. At least they haven't said anything about mine.
I think the Red Top is just for better overall performance, and the Yellow Top is good if you have alot of power options/add-ons. Not sure if there is even a Yellow Top available for us.
I think the Red Top is just for better overall performance, and the Yellow Top is good if you have alot of power options/add-ons. Not sure if there is even a Yellow Top available for us.
Last edited by ViSiONZ; 03-07-2008 at 11:22 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-07-2008, 12:05 PM
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03-07-2008, 12:17 PM
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03-07-2008, 12:56 PM
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i have to go to my car to get something, ill look now, one min
it says
5/07-guess thts the date (its in a blue circle)
and on the white sticker
CA-870
CCA-750
AH-55
RC-120
it says
5/07-guess thts the date (its in a blue circle)
and on the white sticker
CA-870
CCA-750
AH-55
RC-120
Last edited by originaladrian; 03-07-2008 at 12:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-07-2008, 01:08 PM
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Last edited by ViSiONZ; 03-07-2008 at 01:08 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-07-2008, 01:12 PM
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03-07-2008, 01:17 PM
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i disagree, i run 2 kicker 12" L5's. No cap, and minimal dimming. with an audiobahn POS at 2 ohms runs 1200x1 so 600 to each subwoofer at 2 final ohms. no problems yet, and i also have interior LEDS and I did have an underglow. I still run constant 13-14s with everything on. Interior lights, headlights, wipers, system, dome light, blinkers, and I still show around 13.5's when my system HITS on a battery diagnostics. I will be getting another battery because I'm going to a bigger system, but i disagree with ur statement.
03-07-2008, 01:24 PM
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i used to run an 800W amp to 2 12,s at 2 ohms on the stock battery. Ran fine with no to little dimming except at really high levels. doing it right with good wire, good grounds, and not ghetto rigged in any way will make a huge difference (not saying this is u by any means)
03-07-2008, 01:52 PM
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i used to run an 800W amp to 2 12,s at 2 ohms on the stock battery. Ran fine with no to little dimming except at really high levels. doing it right with good wire, good grounds, and not ghetto rigged in any way will make a huge difference (not saying this is u by any means)
Im not sure if the stock battery can be recharged or anything. I could barely start my car today. Plus I am going to have a lot of new electrical mods done to my car in the near future & I like to turn my music up really loud with out having my lights dim on & off like im flashing my high beams at someone
. The 1 farad cap that I have is decent but when I turn my bass up full & volume up almost full, the flickering begins & its especially noticeable at night. but I have alot of stereo bulk in my trunk already & don't know if there is room for 2 batteries.
Last edited by ViSiONZ; 03-07-2008 at 01:52 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-07-2008, 01:55 PM
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All my stuff was installed by a professional that ive known for years. I just need a new battery because my stock one has gone to **** now that my car got boosted by my friends camry the other day because I left my lights on all day/night.
Im not sure if the stock battery can be recharged or anything. I could barely start my car today. Plus I am going to have a lot of new electrical mods done to my car in the near future & I like to turn my music up really loud with out having my lights dim on & off like im flashing my high beams at someone. The 1 farad cap that I have is decent but when I turn my bass up full & volume up almost full, the flickering begins & its especially noticeable at night.
That just might be an option but I have alot of stereo bulk in my trunk already & don't know if there is room for 2 batteries.
Im not sure if the stock battery can be recharged or anything. I could barely start my car today. Plus I am going to have a lot of new electrical mods done to my car in the near future & I like to turn my music up really loud with out having my lights dim on & off like im flashing my high beams at someone
. The 1 farad cap that I have is decent but when I turn my bass up full & volume up almost full, the flickering begins & its especially noticeable at night.That just might be an option
but I have alot of stereo bulk in my trunk already & don't know if there is room for 2 batteries.[QUOTE=That just might be an option
but I have alot of stereo bulk in my trunk already & don't know if there is room for 2 batteries.[/QUOTE]no need, trust me, A yellow top is MORE thn enough muscle for our cars.
Last edited by originaladrian; 03-07-2008 at 01:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-07-2008, 02:01 PM
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03-08-2008, 01:06 PM
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03-08-2008, 03:12 PM
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U mean those batteries marketed just for car audio? there a scam, way overpriced for a big ass capacitor. A true deep cycle battery works differently. with the optima you have TONS of reserve power and a very good charge/discharge rate. The most stable batterie i personally have ever used.