ctcsoccer7

[QUOTE=EmperorJJ1;3962383]the whole point is to add a second sub. if he only runs one sub then its best to leave it on the stock amp and not have this conversation


easy buddy....im just putting my two cents in .....but i would recommend the kicker 400.1 good solid amp....good power....not to pricey!

Militant_Jurist

Do you mean not upping the volume or EQ on the HU, or do you mean upping the settings within the amp itself?

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

[QUOTE=ctcsoccer7;3962823]lol sorry if that came out sounding bad but i didnt mean it that way at all.

mainly the settings on the amp itself but really both. just be sorta conservative. cranking everything up all the way isn't the way to set anything.

ctcsoccer7

If it was me i would go with a middle of the line amp...save up some doe and go with a kicker 400.1 or even the 750.1 or maybe a kenwood 8104d or 9104d that way you have some power to work with...instead of everything little being turned up so much it sounds like dog POOP! make sure not to UNDERPOWER the subs as that can also blow the subs just like OverPowering them

Militant_Jurist

Thanks for the input. For me, it's not a matter of saving up the money. This Cobalt is one that my dad and I rebuilt from salvage, something we do every couple of years. I just want a bit of a better sound system, and not looking to really spend any money in the process. This car is just to hold me over until I finish my doctorate in December, and I'll probably start looking for another salvage car the following spring.

One option I suppose would be to buy a used amp. Are these like used cars, where you often get a lemon, or are they typically a pretty good buy? I actually saw a used Kicker Z 400.1 for $75.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

um sorta both. ive purchased many used amps and other then the ones ive specificlly bought broken i think only 1 that was supposed to be working wasnt. but its the amp im really looking for and normally goes for 100-130 used in good to decent condition. This one was 55 shipped in good condition so i dont care so much it came sorta chweck

Militant_Jurist

Well, it's now a toss up between the MTX and a Kicker 08Z400.1. I've found both used for decent prices. I'm not going to blow up the subs with the Kicker, will I? It seems like it has a lot more power.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

either way you still have to be careful. the bigger the amp the bigger the chance of blowing the stock subs. they cant handle much power at all. if anything the kicker is a much cleaner amp

ctcsoccer7

i agree with this....but im running a KICKER 400.1 on the factory SS sub and its working like a champ had it in there for awhile now... Just bought the enclosure on this site and popped it in...sound good and gives good bass and is at 4ohms!

Militant_Jurist

You have this amp powering one factory sub? Aren't the subs at 2 ohms, so you'd have 400w going to just that one sub?

ctcsoccer7

yes, but i wired it down to 4 ohms....i plan on adding another sub to the mix when ever i build my custom box

Militant_Jurist

So if I have it wired to 2 subs at 2 ohms, would I be fine? Or would I also need to wire it down to 4 ohms?

ctcsoccer7

depends on the amp.....my guess would be yes because the kicker 400.1 is not one ohm stable IE.....in car audio world...

4ohm + 4ohm= 2ohm
2ohm + 2ohm= 1 ohm
8ohm + 8ohm= 4ohm

and so on and so on!


so if you add two of these then yes you will need to wire it down to 4ohm which would give you 4ohm + 4ohm = 2ohm.( max power of the kicker amp)

Militant_Jurist

Ok, cool. So, if I get the Kicker 09ZX400.1 Mono amp and wire two factory subs, I'll need to wire down to 4 ohm. The next question is how do I "wire down to 4 ohm" with each sub? I've never done this before.

Also, does wiring down a sub have any potentially damaging effect?

ctcsoccer7

ok ....on each side of the sub you have a (+) and a (-) ...basically you wire one positive of one side to a negative of the other side and then use the remaining positive and negative to go to the box. steps it down...i will try to see if i can find a schematic.

Militant_Jurist

Sounds easy enough. It won't harm the sub, will it?

Is this the wiring setup of which you speak?

ctcsoccer7

yes, just use it per box....not jumping from sub to sub!

Militant_Jurist

So the diagram has the correct overall wiring set up for what I need?

Also, how will I wire the Kicker into the factory system? Is it just a matter of hooking up the Kicker to the sub output, or will I need to wire it back to the HU?

ctcsoccer7

yeah you will need a LOC (line output converter) to the factory sub output, power and ground , and then a 12v source that turns on with the key the off with the key.

Militant_Jurist

That's the sub output on the amp, not the HU, correct? Also, I've heard mixed things about doing a direct wire into a fuse for something like the wipers. Is that how you set up your power supply, or did you do something else? Also, for the 2nd sub, can I just splice into the power supply for the first sub, or will it need its own power supply?

Thanks for all of the assistance thus far. I'm starting to get a real plan in mind.

ctcsoccer7

the second sub will only need speaker output from the amp , its just a sub, but the KICKER amp will need power , ground, SWITCHED power( which you can use a fuse tap or pull the fuse box out alittle and wire it in there as well, also the fuse box in the trunk may also have an ignition source( TEST FIRST). you can wire the LOC right at the input of the factory SS sub, should be on top of the box . I have an aftermarket HU i mine so it has an AMP (TURN_ON) wire output. WIPERS IS A OK SOURCE. also you can use a source called RAP , usually test as 12v with the key off , until you open the door then goes to 0v.

Militant_Jurist

Wiring right at the sub... I like the sound of that! I think I just might try to find the RAP, since power until the door opens would be great. I think I've heard of that power source before.... I'll just have to remember where it's located on the fuse box. My electrical tool collection sucks, so I'd rather have a power source that I know will work.

Are there any particular LOCs I should look for? Also, I noticed that on crutchfield, the wiring kit was over $100. Are there any other, less expensive, options for this plan?

ctcsoccer7

yeah i will look it up at work tommorrow! the RAP wire!.....yeah 8 gauge walmart will work, but you get what you pay for....also a good LOC has adjustments on it

Militant_Jurist

Thanks!

On a downer note, the good deal I found on a used Kicker 400.1 turned out to be not quite so good. I got an email from the seller saying that it was the amp only.... not even the remote control was included. I've found another unit for sale, brand new this time, for about $100 less than retail. If the wiring isn't all that expensive, and I can find a good LOC for a good deal, I think things will still be in tip top shape.

hailcesar75

subd