Can you add a second stock sub?
#26
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[QUOTE=EmperorJJ1;3962383]the whole point is to add a second sub. if he only runs one sub then its best to leave it on the stock amp and not have this conversation
easy buddy....im just putting my two cents in .....but i would recommend the kicker 400.1 good solid amp....good power....not to pricey!
easy buddy....im just putting my two cents in .....but i would recommend the kicker 400.1 good solid amp....good power....not to pricey!
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ya i mean anything you do is going to be more power then stock. i think i calculated it before and it was something like 78w max power so at 100 rms per sub at 2 ohms u would be doubling that. The only issue i can foresee on that amp is cranking the settings too high. as long as you don't expect a crazy jump in volume when its all said and done you will be fine. when its all said and done you should get about double the volume bass wise. turning up the amps settings to get more is really just a good way to blow everything up
#28
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[QUOTE=ctcsoccer7;3962823]
lol sorry if that came out sounding bad but i didnt mean it that way at all.
mainly the settings on the amp itself but really both. just be sorta conservative. cranking everything up all the way isn't the way to set anything.
the whole point is to add a second sub. if he only runs one sub then its best to leave it on the stock amp and not have this conversation
easy buddy....im just putting my two cents in .....but i would recommend the kicker 400.1 good solid amp....good power....not to pricey!
easy buddy....im just putting my two cents in .....but i would recommend the kicker 400.1 good solid amp....good power....not to pricey!
mainly the settings on the amp itself but really both. just be sorta conservative. cranking everything up all the way isn't the way to set anything.
Last edited by EmperorJJ1; 06-06-2009 at 10:58 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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If it was me i would go with a middle of the line amp...save up some doe and go with a kicker 400.1 or even the 750.1 or maybe a kenwood 8104d or 9104d that way you have some power to work with...instead of everything little being turned up so much it sounds like dog POOP! make sure not to UNDERPOWER the subs as that can also blow the subs just like OverPowering them
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If it was me i would go with a middle of the line amp...save up some doe and go with a kicker 400.1 or even the 750.1 or maybe a kenwood 8104d or 9104d that way you have some power to work with...instead of everything little being turned up so much it sounds like dog POOP! make sure not to UNDERPOWER the subs as that can also blow the subs just like OverPowering them
One option I suppose would be to buy a used amp. Are these like used cars, where you often get a lemon, or are they typically a pretty good buy? I actually saw a used Kicker Z 400.1 for $75.
#31
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um sorta both. ive purchased many used amps and other then the ones ive specificlly bought broken i think only 1 that was supposed to be working wasnt. but its the amp im really looking for and normally goes for 100-130 used in good to decent condition. This one was 55 shipped in good condition so i dont care so much it came sorta chweck
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Well, it's now a toss up between the MTX and a Kicker 08Z400.1. I've found both used for decent prices. I'm not going to blow up the subs with the Kicker, will I? It seems like it has a lot more power.
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i agree with this....but im running a KICKER 400.1 on the factory SS sub and its working like a champ had it in there for awhile now... Just bought the enclosure on this site and popped it in...sound good and gives good bass and is at 4ohms!
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You have this amp powering one factory sub? Aren't the subs at 2 ohms, so you'd have 400w going to just that one sub?
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4ohm + 4ohm= 2ohm
2ohm + 2ohm= 1 ohm
8ohm + 8ohm= 4ohm
and so on and so on!
so if you add two of these then yes you will need to wire it down to 4ohm which would give you 4ohm + 4ohm = 2ohm.( max power of the kicker amp)
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depends on the amp.....my guess would be yes because the kicker 400.1 is not one ohm stable IE.....in car audio world...
4ohm + 4ohm= 2ohm
2ohm + 2ohm= 1 ohm
8ohm + 8ohm= 4ohm
and so on and so on!
so if you add two of these then yes you will need to wire it down to 4ohm which would give you 4ohm + 4ohm = 2ohm.( max power of the kicker amp)
4ohm + 4ohm= 2ohm
2ohm + 2ohm= 1 ohm
8ohm + 8ohm= 4ohm
and so on and so on!
so if you add two of these then yes you will need to wire it down to 4ohm which would give you 4ohm + 4ohm = 2ohm.( max power of the kicker amp)
Also, does wiring down a sub have any potentially damaging effect?
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ok ....on each side of the sub you have a (+) and a (-) ...basically you wire one positive of one side to a negative of the other side and then use the remaining positive and negative to go to the box. steps it down...i will try to see if i can find a schematic.
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Is this the wiring setup of which you speak?
Last edited by Militant_Jurist; 06-08-2009 at 08:32 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#43
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So the diagram has the correct overall wiring set up for what I need?
Also, how will I wire the Kicker into the factory system? Is it just a matter of hooking up the Kicker to the sub output, or will I need to wire it back to the HU?
Also, how will I wire the Kicker into the factory system? Is it just a matter of hooking up the Kicker to the sub output, or will I need to wire it back to the HU?
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yeah you will need a LOC (line output converter) to the factory sub output, power and ground , and then a 12v source that turns on with the key the off with the key.
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Thanks for all of the assistance thus far. I'm starting to get a real plan in mind.
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the second sub will only need speaker output from the amp , its just a sub, but the KICKER amp will need power , ground, SWITCHED power( which you can use a fuse tap or pull the fuse box out alittle and wire it in there as well, also the fuse box in the trunk may also have an ignition source( TEST FIRST). you can wire the LOC right at the input of the factory SS sub, should be on top of the box . I have an aftermarket HU i mine so it has an AMP (TURN_ON) wire output. WIPERS IS A OK SOURCE. also you can use a source called RAP , usually test as 12v with the key off , until you open the door then goes to 0v.
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the second sub will only need speaker output from the amp , its just a sub, but the KICKER amp will need power , ground, SWITCHED power( which you can use a fuse tap or pull the fuse box out alittle and wire it in there as well, also the fuse box in the trunk may also have an ignition source( TEST FIRST). you can wire the LOC right at the input of the factory SS sub, should be on top of the box . I have an aftermarket HU i mine so it has an AMP (TURN_ON) wire output. WIPERS IS A OK SOURCE. also you can use a source called RAP , usually test as 12v with the key off , until you open the door then goes to 0v.
Are there any particular LOCs I should look for? Also, I noticed that on crutchfield, the wiring kit was over $100. Are there any other, less expensive, options for this plan?
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yeah i will look it up at work tommorrow! the RAP wire!.....yeah 8 gauge walmart will work, but you get what you pay for....also a good LOC has adjustments on it
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On a downer note, the good deal I found on a used Kicker 400.1 turned out to be not quite so good. I got an email from the seller saying that it was the amp only.... not even the remote control was included. I've found another unit for sale, brand new this time, for about $100 less than retail. If the wiring isn't all that expensive, and I can find a good LOC for a good deal, I think things will still be in tip top shape.