Militant_Jurist

????

ctcsoccer7

ok pulled my car apart and found that the RAP wire in my 2006 LT is a thicker yellow going into the passenger and driver kick panel. Also found that you must have power windows/doors for this wire to be here. The wire will be thicker than all the rest of them and will almost look faded, (kinda whiteish). The easiest door boot was the passneger one.

Militant_Jurist

Thanks for getting that info!

So I can just splice the power from the amp into the RAP, ground the amp separately, and then use a LOC from the input line to Sub1 over to input on Sub2. I'll wire the subs down to 4 ohm each by the method we discussed. Will wiring into the RAP mean that I won't have to worry about wiring the remote turn-on?

Would you say that $165 would be a good deal for a new Kicker 08ZX400.1? I found it on Amazon.

cgrammer

Sub'd means subscribed. He just typed in the thread so it's saved for future reference.


Noob... I was one, too.

Militant_Jurist

Haha that makes sense now. I was actually quite surprised when I was unable to find this kind of information just through searching the web. Hopefully my questions and the great answers I've received so far will also be able to help others.

ctcsoccer7

dont wire power into the RAP...wire the amp turn_on into that wire....Power is in the trunk under the mat ,at the battery. You have 3 power wires 12volts constant, Ground(negative) and amp turn on(RAP) and the LOC for rcas!

I think that price is kinda high! i would say dont jump over 100!

hailcesar75

i was one too and didnt know what the hell it meant

Militant_Jurist

Any suggestions for where to get a new one? Crutchfield has it listed for $299, Amazon is at about $165, and I've only seen a used one on ebay for under 100, but it didn't have the remote control wire. Is that a big deal? Could I rig up a replacement remote control?

ctcsoccer7

i wouldnt really be worried about it......worst case i could sell you on for like 5 buck plus shipping, i think i have like 2 or 3 in my tool box.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

ya the remote bass knob needs to be thrown away anyway. and i dont know about u but 165 for 400w rms, new, kicker... sounds like a damn good deal

i knwo im just going to confuse the **** out of u and ruin this whole conversation but stock subs are dual 2 ohm. so think of each speaker as 2. with a total of 2 subs you would have 4 voice coils.

Militant_Jurist

Yeah, I'm kind of leaning towards getting it new, because who knows what this ebay guy did when taking it out of his vehicle. Plus, I'd be getting a warranty with a new one. I'm going to think about it tonight, but if the Kicker will work great with my plan, I'm leaning toward just going new, and having less risk attached.

Haha yup, that just confused me pretty well. If it's a dual 2 ohm, and I need to wire down to 4 ohm to keep from blowing the subs, what does this mean for me?

Or is that the reason why there are two pairs of (+) and (-) on each sub? From what I understand, the diagram I posted was specific for a pair of DVC subs.

ctcsoccer7

so your not confused, go with your diagram, it will work for what your doing but just think of it as running it to the amp not from sub to sub.

he mean + - , + -, + -, + - but depending on how you wire it you can get 4ohms or 1ohm, just go with your diagram. it will work

Militant_Jurist

Ok, so I'll be taking the input off of the stock sub1, using a LOC to connect the input to the amp. Then I'll be running each sub to the amp, wiring each down to 4 ohm.

ctcsoccer7

yes but you dont have to take the input off, just wire into it. leave it plugged in!

Militant_Jurist

How does sub1 get run off of the Kicker then?

camshaft343

I just tried to mirror image fit another one. It DOES NOT FIT.

ctcsoccer7

could have told you that!.....you would need to build a custom box

camshaft343

ya...Harrison and I looked for the this thread and couldn't find it.

ctcsoccer7

ive seen it done on my boys car , he just took a factory SS box and then went to town on it with fiber glass! turned out good!

camshaft343

oh cool. I don't have fiber glass tools or material so I'll just buy a dual 8" box

ctcsoccer7

also try ZENCLOSURES.com he makes car specific boxes you just have to tell him for how many subs/size. On the site its for 2 12s for the cobalt.

Militant_Jurist

I'll have to look into that, either a new box or retro-fitting the stock.

I suppose I'm a bit confused now about how the amp and sub1 will be connected? Sub2 wiring is pretty clear, but it sounds like sub1 will not be actually run off of the Kicker.

ctcsoccer7

huh? where did you get lost? of course its gonna hook up to the amp!

Militant_Jurist

So the stock sub1 will be hooked up to both the new amp and the stock amp?

I was envisioning a clean and simple setup such as this:


with the amp being connected to a pair of wires with a LOC between the stock amp and new amp.

Oh, except that I remember you said each sub would be wired to the amp directly, instead of sub2 to sub1.

ctcsoccer7

if you take the bottom sub and go to the amp its the same thing . dont loop the subs, just take both of them and go to the amp. you will still get the same power and at the amp the ohms will be 2. ITS the same just dont run the bottom sub to the other sub , run it to the amp