Can you add a second stock sub?
#52
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ok pulled my car apart and found that the RAP wire in my 2006 LT is a thicker yellow going into the passenger and driver kick panel. Also found that you must have power windows/doors for this wire to be here. The wire will be thicker than all the rest of them and will almost look faded, (kinda whiteish). The easiest door boot was the passneger one.
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ok pulled my car apart and found that the RAP wire in my 2006 LT is a thicker yellow going into the passenger and driver kick panel. Also found that you must have power windows/doors for this wire to be here. The wire will be thicker than all the rest of them and will almost look faded, (kinda whiteish). The easiest door boot was the passneger one.
So I can just splice the power from the amp into the RAP, ground the amp separately, and then use a LOC from the input line to Sub1 over to input on Sub2. I'll wire the subs down to 4 ohm each by the method we discussed. Will wiring into the RAP mean that I won't have to worry about wiring the remote turn-on?
Would you say that $165 would be a good deal for a new Kicker 08ZX400.1? I found it on Amazon.
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Haha that makes sense now. I was actually quite surprised when I was unable to find this kind of information just through searching the web. Hopefully my questions and the great answers I've received so far will also be able to help others.
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Thanks for getting that info!
So I can just splice the power from the amp into the RAP, ground the amp separately, and then use a LOC from the input line to Sub1 over to input on Sub2. I'll wire the subs down to 4 ohm each by the method we discussed. Will wiring into the RAP mean that I won't have to worry about wiring the remote turn-on?
Would you say that $165 would be a good deal for a new Kicker 08ZX400.1? I found it on Amazon.
So I can just splice the power from the amp into the RAP, ground the amp separately, and then use a LOC from the input line to Sub1 over to input on Sub2. I'll wire the subs down to 4 ohm each by the method we discussed. Will wiring into the RAP mean that I won't have to worry about wiring the remote turn-on?
Would you say that $165 would be a good deal for a new Kicker 08ZX400.1? I found it on Amazon.
I think that price is kinda high! i would say dont jump over 100!
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dont wire power into the RAP...wire the amp turn_on into that wire....Power is in the trunk under the mat ,at the battery. You have 3 power wires 12volts constant, Ground(negative) and amp turn on(RAP) and the LOC for rcas!
I think that price is kinda high! i would say dont jump over 100!
I think that price is kinda high! i would say dont jump over 100!
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Any suggestions for where to get a new one? Crutchfield has it listed for $299, Amazon is at about $165, and I've only seen a used one on ebay for under 100, but it didn't have the remote control wire. Is that a big deal? Could I rig up a replacement remote control?
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ya the remote bass knob needs to be thrown away anyway. and i dont know about u but 165 for 400w rms, new, kicker... sounds like a damn good deal
i knwo im just going to confuse the **** out of u and ruin this whole conversation but stock subs are dual 2 ohm. so think of each speaker as 2. with a total of 2 subs you would have 4 voice coils.
i knwo im just going to confuse the **** out of u and ruin this whole conversation but stock subs are dual 2 ohm. so think of each speaker as 2. with a total of 2 subs you would have 4 voice coils.
Last edited by EmperorJJ1; 06-10-2009 at 12:55 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Haha yup, that just confused me pretty well. If it's a dual 2 ohm, and I need to wire down to 4 ohm to keep from blowing the subs, what does this mean for me?
Or is that the reason why there are two pairs of (+) and (-) on each sub? From what I understand, the diagram I posted was specific for a pair of DVC subs.
Last edited by Militant_Jurist; 06-10-2009 at 11:21 AM.
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Yeah, I'm kind of leaning towards getting it new, because who knows what this ebay guy did when taking it out of his vehicle. Plus, I'd be getting a warranty with a new one. I'm going to think about it tonight, but if the Kicker will work great with my plan, I'm leaning toward just going new, and having less risk attached.
Haha yup, that just confused me pretty well. If it's a dual 2 ohm, and I need to wire down to 4 ohm to keep from blowing the subs, what does this mean for me?
Or is that the reason why there are two pairs of (+) and (-) on each sub? From what I understand, the diagram I posted was specific for a pair of DVC subs.
Haha yup, that just confused me pretty well. If it's a dual 2 ohm, and I need to wire down to 4 ohm to keep from blowing the subs, what does this mean for me?
Or is that the reason why there are two pairs of (+) and (-) on each sub? From what I understand, the diagram I posted was specific for a pair of DVC subs.
ya the remote bass knob needs to be thrown away anyway. and i dont know about u but 165 for 400w rms, new, kicker... sounds like a damn good deal
i knwo im just going to confuse the **** out of u and ruin this whole conversation but stock subs are dual 2 ohm. so think of each speaker as 2. with a total of 2 subs you would have 4 voice coils.
i knwo im just going to confuse the **** out of u and ruin this whole conversation but stock subs are dual 2 ohm. so think of each speaker as 2. with a total of 2 subs you would have 4 voice coils.
Last edited by ctcsoccer7; 06-10-2009 at 12:30 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Ok, so I'll be taking the input off of the stock sub1, using a LOC to connect the input to the amp. Then I'll be running each sub to the amp, wiring each down to 4 ohm.
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I'll have to look into that, either a new box or retro-fitting the stock.
I suppose I'm a bit confused now about how the amp and sub1 will be connected? Sub2 wiring is pretty clear, but it sounds like sub1 will not be actually run off of the Kicker.
I suppose I'm a bit confused now about how the amp and sub1 will be connected? Sub2 wiring is pretty clear, but it sounds like sub1 will not be actually run off of the Kicker.
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huh? where did you get lost? of course its gonna hook up to the amp!
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I was envisioning a clean and simple setup such as this:
with the amp being connected to a pair of wires with a LOC between the stock amp and new amp.
Oh, except that I remember you said each sub would be wired to the amp directly, instead of sub2 to sub1.
Last edited by Militant_Jurist; 06-10-2009 at 06:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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if you take the bottom sub and go to the amp its the same thing . dont loop the subs, just take both of them and go to the amp. you will still get the same power and at the amp the ohms will be 2. ITS the same just dont run the bottom sub to the other sub , run it to the amp