Can you add a second stock sub?
06-10-2009, 06:38 PM
#76
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Yeah, that part I'm still good on. What I'm confused about is where the sound input for the Kicker will come from. Will I be wiring 4 lines into a LOC and then 2 wires from it into the amp? It just sounds confusing because it sounds like sub1 will be hooked up to 2 amps, if I'm supposed to just splice into the stock amp to sub1 connection.
06-10-2009, 06:46 PM
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Yeah, that part I'm still good on. What I'm confused about is where the sound input for the Kicker will come from. Will I be wiring 4 lines into a LOC and then 2 wires from it into the amp? It just sounds confusing because it sounds like sub1 will be hooked up to 2 amps, if I'm supposed to just splice into the stock amp to sub1 connection.
06-10-2009, 06:58 PM
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not quite, one its not positive or negative from the LOC its RCAS, and the subs are wired wrong, you need a positive from one voice coil to the negative of the opposite voice coil, and the run the last positive and negatives to the amp. if you look at you crutchfield thing its right, just real close together.
06-10-2009, 08:36 PM
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06-10-2009, 08:41 PM
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Great! Thanks for all of the help thus far. I think I've found a decent wiring kit, which I believe has everything I need (including the RCAS?), other than the LOC. Is there a particular LOC that you would recommend for this?
06-10-2009, 08:44 PM
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the one at bestbuy is pretty descent, like 25 dollars and has adjustable gains on it, as long as the one you get is adjustable , should be fine!
06-10-2009, 08:48 PM
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Like this? It's $15.99 on their website.
06-10-2009, 08:52 PM
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Like this? It's $15.99 on their website.
06-10-2009, 08:55 PM
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Excellent! Well, now all I have to do is take the second sub out of the parts car and get everything else purchased. Thanks for all of the help! I'll be sure to post once I'm doing the actual work.
06-10-2009, 08:59 PM
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06-12-2009, 02:16 PM
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I just thought of another thing, having recalled that you mentioned running the Kicker 400.1 on your factory sub.
I'm not sure when I'll be picking up the 2nd sub (it's buried in my dad's auto shop right now), and I'll have the new amp in well before the sub gets dug out. How did you wire up your factory sub to the amp? If it's alone on the amp, will it be more likely to be blown out?
I'm not sure when I'll be picking up the 2nd sub (it's buried in my dad's auto shop right now), and I'll have the new amp in well before the sub gets dug out. How did you wire up your factory sub to the amp? If it's alone on the amp, will it be more likely to be blown out?
06-12-2009, 05:42 PM
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I just thought of another thing, having recalled that you mentioned running the Kicker 400.1 on your factory sub.
I'm not sure when I'll be picking up the 2nd sub (it's buried in my dad's auto shop right now), and I'll have the new amp in well before the sub gets dug out. How did you wire up your factory sub to the amp? If it's alone on the amp, will it be more likely to be blown out?
I'm not sure when I'll be picking up the 2nd sub (it's buried in my dad's auto shop right now), and I'll have the new amp in well before the sub gets dug out. How did you wire up your factory sub to the amp? If it's alone on the amp, will it be more likely to be blown out?
06-13-2009, 08:48 PM
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06-23-2009, 10:12 AM
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I've finally gotten everything together, including the 2nd sub, so I'm going to start wiring soon! I want to snap a couple of photos during the process to post here, so it won't be happening today, as I'll be in court for the entire afternoon and working late into the evening. I'll try to have the photos taken and posted here probably on Thursday night.
I've decided to not build a sub-box, since that would just drag things out even longer. Instead, I'm going to secure the stock sub to the trunk floor covering (the hard cover over the spare well).
Also, I don't want to cut off the plug that goes to the input of the original sub; I'm thinking about just sticking the LOC wires into the plug, and taping it up. Any problem with doing that?
I've decided to not build a sub-box, since that would just drag things out even longer. Instead, I'm going to secure the stock sub to the trunk floor covering (the hard cover over the spare well).
Also, I don't want to cut off the plug that goes to the input of the original sub; I'm thinking about just sticking the LOC wires into the plug, and taping it up. Any problem with doing that?
06-23-2009, 09:42 PM
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I've finally gotten everything together, including the 2nd sub, so I'm going to start wiring soon! I want to snap a couple of photos during the process to post here, so it won't be happening today, as I'll be in court for the entire afternoon and working late into the evening. I'll try to have the photos taken and posted here probably on Thursday night.
I've decided to not build a sub-box, since that would just drag things out even longer. Instead, I'm going to secure the stock sub to the trunk floor covering (the hard cover over the spare well).
Also, I don't want to cut off the plug that goes to the input of the original sub; I'm thinking about just sticking the LOC wires into the plug, and taping it up. Any problem with doing that?
I've decided to not build a sub-box, since that would just drag things out even longer. Instead, I'm going to secure the stock sub to the trunk floor covering (the hard cover over the spare well).
Also, I don't want to cut off the plug that goes to the input of the original sub; I'm thinking about just sticking the LOC wires into the plug, and taping it up. Any problem with doing that?
06-25-2009, 02:17 PM
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UPDATE:
So, I mounted the amp and the sub, and ran wire for everything. I still have to run the remote turn-on to the RAP, and I had a bit of trouble finding a good way of hooking the Kicker up to the (+) pole on the battery.
There just wasn't any good place to attach a terminal. I ran out of time anyways, so it was a good time to reach that problem. Should I just forget the terminal, loosen the hook up to the (+), and run the wire directly into the (+) hook-up?
So, I mounted the amp and the sub, and ran wire for everything. I still have to run the remote turn-on to the RAP, and I had a bit of trouble finding a good way of hooking the Kicker up to the (+) pole on the battery.
There just wasn't any good place to attach a terminal. I ran out of time anyways, so it was a good time to reach that problem. Should I just forget the terminal, loosen the hook up to the (+), and run the wire directly into the (+) hook-up?
06-25-2009, 11:37 PM
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what would look really clean is a mirror image box like the pioneer on the left side to the right side. I wonder if anyone ever managed to fab one up....
06-25-2009, 11:49 PM
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