capacitor questions
#27
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Ever since the rear harness ground issue I saw in my 95 Z28, I do not trust stock or chassis grounds for anything higher than a 200w amp. Simply too much cheap wire, cheap connections and questionable chassis conductivity for my taste. I ran my additional ground through the interior - haven't done one on the 'balt (yet), but I'd suspect that it isn't too difficult to run the wire like I did on a j-body.
If it is easier under the chassis and somebody knows - do tel!!! Save me the trouble of figuring it out when I do run my system!
If it is easier under the chassis and somebody knows - do tel!!! Save me the trouble of figuring it out when I do run my system!
#30
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That's no problem - you can connect it straight to the cable, or, if you want to improve grounding in general to the rear of your car, you can secure it somewhere in the chassis where there's a decent sized bolt or to the stock ground point for your rear, then to your amp. On my Z28, I had a spare hole from where some other old parts connected, and I sanded and used that point as a chassis ground - I even have my ground points for my rear lights relocated there.
#34
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was reading this post because the setup i have pretty much makes my lights dim as hell but not flicker which im guessing is just for the power that theyre actually using and began wondering if there was anything actually bad with that? its a dumb question but i dont know much about my cars electrical system so just thought id ask. running a pioneer headunit a kenwood 1800w at around 900 rms and 2 kicker l5s at 450 rms each
#37
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was reading this post because the setup i have pretty much makes my lights dim as hell but not flicker which im guessing is just for the power that theyre actually using and began wondering if there was anything actually bad with that? its a dumb question but i dont know much about my cars electrical system so just thought id ask. running a pioneer headunit a kenwood 1800w at around 900 rms and 2 kicker l5s at 450 rms each
#38
this thread it way to long for such an easy solution....if you dont want headlight dimming either do the big 3 and get a deep cycle battery or buy HID's....never had a headlight flicker on around 2k rms since i installed HID's...
#39
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I've actually not had a problem after I put in a 130 amp (or higher) alternator in my high-wattage cars I used to do! Its a heck of a lot less expensive and time consuming than swapping out the innocent parts!
Then again, those cars had welding cable running to the back to supply the juice......
Then again, those cars had welding cable running to the back to supply the juice......