Do I need a second battery?
05-22-2009, 02:57 AM
#1
Do I need a second battery?
Ok, so this is what I'm going to be installing into my car:
Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD Receiver
Pioneer Premier TS-SW1001S4 Shallow Mount Subwoofer
Pioneer GM-D7400M 800 Watt Mono-Channel Amp
Slim PS2
Is that too much to run off my battery? If I should get another one, does anyone know how to run everything for a second battery? I don't know very much about the whole car audio. Any help would be great. Thanks.
Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD Receiver
Pioneer Premier TS-SW1001S4 Shallow Mount Subwoofer
Pioneer GM-D7400M 800 Watt Mono-Channel Amp
Slim PS2
Is that too much to run off my battery? If I should get another one, does anyone know how to run everything for a second battery? I don't know very much about the whole car audio. Any help would be great. Thanks.
05-22-2009, 05:48 AM
#3
Just upgrade the battery in your car rather than adding a second one.
If you look in the stickies at the top of this section you will find some usefull Battery info.
And you can run the batteries parallel but unless you really know what your doing, and can fix "on the fly" then I would go with the isolator as well if you do chose to go the second battery route.
However your not running alot of power sucking equipment so I wouldn't stress about a second battery.
One more thing, Caps (compasitors) are a waste of time/money IMO so don't waste either on one
If you look in the stickies at the top of this section you will find some usefull Battery info.
And you can run the batteries parallel but unless you really know what your doing, and can fix "on the fly" then I would go with the isolator as well if you do chose to go the second battery route.
However your not running alot of power sucking equipment so I wouldn't stress about a second battery.
One more thing, Caps (compasitors) are a waste of time/money IMO so don't waste either on one
05-22-2009, 12:19 PM
#6
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Just upgrade the battery in your car rather than adding a second one.
If you look in the stickies at the top of this section you will find some usefull Battery info.
And you can run the batteries parallel but unless you really know what your doing, and can fix "on the fly" then I would go with the isolator as well if you do chose to go the second battery route.
However your not running alot of power sucking equipment so I wouldn't stress about a second battery.
One more thing, Caps (compasitors) are a waste of time/money IMO so don't waste either on one
If you look in the stickies at the top of this section you will find some usefull Battery info.
And you can run the batteries parallel but unless you really know what your doing, and can fix "on the fly" then I would go with the isolator as well if you do chose to go the second battery route.
However your not running alot of power sucking equipment so I wouldn't stress about a second battery.
One more thing, Caps (compasitors) are a waste of time/money IMO so don't waste either on one
Last edited by ctcsoccer7; 05-22-2009 at 12:19 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
05-23-2009, 01:28 AM
#7
ok for one you would need an isolator , cant just loop a battery to another one! and for this setup no you would not need another battery, its not pulling enough current to make it an issue to even look at.
you look at the fuse on the amp to find out how many amps its pulling. Like if it had 2 20 amp fuses , it would be pulling 40 amps of current.
upgrading the battery is one thing you can do a red or yellow top OPTIMA battery would be one i would do, but to say a CAP is a waste of time would be incorrect. A cap is good because it keeps the pull of the car audio system off of the stock alternator, extending the life of that alternator.
you look at the fuse on the amp to find out how many amps its pulling. Like if it had 2 20 amp fuses , it would be pulling 40 amps of current.
upgrading the battery is one thing you can do a red or yellow top OPTIMA battery would be one i would do, but to say a CAP is a waste of time would be incorrect. A cap is good because it keeps the pull of the car audio system off of the stock alternator, extending the life of that alternator.
05-23-2009, 03:55 AM
#9
well first off that amp is 800w peak so 300 rms on a good day with good wire. secondly the full 300w rms will blow up that sub so you might as well bump that number right on down. Power inverter and PS2 will soak some juice but not enough to be concerned about so in my profession opinion you will be fine off the stock battery/alternator assuming they are both still good. Stock alt is 105a on the SS/SC no idea on the rest
oh and an isolator is for the most part retarded just like a capacitor yes it works yes it has a purpose but few people actually need it for what its ment to do. Most people just use them for the wrong reason and get pissed they don't "work" well
oh and an isolator is for the most part retarded just like a capacitor yes it works yes it has a purpose but few people actually need it for what its ment to do. Most people just use them for the wrong reason and get pissed they don't "work" well
05-23-2009, 10:52 AM
#12
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oh and an isolator is for the most part retarded just like a capacitor yes it works yes it has a purpose but few people actually need it for what its ment to do. Most people just use them for the wrong reason and get pissed they don't "work" well[/QUOTE]
im confused how can you be retarded , and work fine and serve a purpose? as i stated above for what he is using he wouldnt need either a CAP or an isolator, there isnt enough current draw on that amp for it to be an issue! i didnt just start doing car audio yesterday !
im confused how can you be retarded , and work fine and serve a purpose? as i stated above for what he is using he wouldnt need either a CAP or an isolator, there isnt enough current draw on that amp for it to be an issue! i didnt just start doing car audio yesterday !
yes they are useful and have a purpose but they don't need to be and shouldn't be used for any and every dual battery setup out there.
05-23-2009, 11:44 AM
#14
well first off that amp is 800w peak so 300 rms on a good day with good wire. secondly the full 300w rms will blow up that sub so you might as well bump that number right on down. Power inverter and PS2 will soak some juice but not enough to be concerned about so in my profession opinion you will be fine off the stock battery/alternator assuming they are both still good. Stock alt is 105a on the SS/SC no idea on the rest
oh and an isolator is for the most part retarded just like a capacitor yes it works yes it has a purpose but few people actually need it for what its ment to do. Most people just use them for the wrong reason and get pissed they don't "work" well
oh and an isolator is for the most part retarded just like a capacitor yes it works yes it has a purpose but few people actually need it for what its ment to do. Most people just use them for the wrong reason and get pissed they don't "work" well
05-23-2009, 08:52 PM
#15
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05-23-2009, 11:51 PM
#16
did you even read my post?
"oh and an isolator is for the most part retarded just like a capacitor yes it works yes it has a purpose but few people actually need it for what its ment to do. Most people just use them for the wrong reason and get pissed they don't "work" well"
fucked. i bet that amp can and will draw more then that before clipping. ultimately the game of playing keep up alternator amperage with amplifier amperage is a loosing battle. i mean look at me my electrical is rock solid but the sundown amp had a fuse rating of 300a, and the fosgate im getting soon has a fuse rating of 500a. yet my alt is a 200a
"oh and an isolator is for the most part retarded just like a capacitor yes it works yes it has a purpose but few people actually need it for what its ment to do. Most people just use them for the wrong reason and get pissed they don't "work" well"
fucked. i bet that amp can and will draw more then that before clipping. ultimately the game of playing keep up alternator amperage with amplifier amperage is a loosing battle. i mean look at me my electrical is rock solid but the sundown amp had a fuse rating of 300a, and the fosgate im getting soon has a fuse rating of 500a. yet my alt is a 200a
05-24-2009, 04:38 PM
#17
You haven't got that Fosgate Yet?
So what are you running right now?
I was reading a car audio mag today that tested the RF T2500.1
2540@1ohm @ 12.6volts
oh wait it gets better
3293@1ohm @ 14.4 volts
So taking that into account lets say for example the amp your getting does 4000@1ohm @12.6
That would put it close to 5000@1ohm @ 14.4 , right?
What kinda power is that thing going to crank out at 18 volts, Like 7-8k?
****!!!
Your going have to tow a generator around behind you
So what are you running right now?
I was reading a car audio mag today that tested the RF T2500.1
2540@1ohm @ 12.6volts
oh wait it gets better
3293@1ohm @ 14.4 volts
So taking that into account lets say for example the amp your getting does 4000@1ohm @12.6
That would put it close to 5000@1ohm @ 14.4 , right?
What kinda power is that thing going to crank out at 18 volts, Like 7-8k?
****!!!
Your going have to tow a generator around behind you
05-25-2009, 06:51 PM
#19
05-25-2009, 08:15 PM
#21
06-02-2009, 02:17 PM
#25
just throwing this out there, someone said the alts were only 105 amp...
i was looking at sheet that said all my cars features on it, and it said "125 amp generator"
maybe mines upgraded?
i was looking at sheet that said all my cars features on it, and it said "125 amp generator"
maybe mines upgraded?