blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

You get the idea...

Anyone done their cobalt in the stuff?
What would be the best areas to hit for the most effectiveness?
I really do not want to just go crazy and do the entire car lol.

I was thinking:
-deck lid
-trunk floor
-behind the factory sub
-under the back seat
-under the rear deck

Goal is to quiet down the interior some and block some exhaust noise.

Thoughts?

royce777

iTrader: (29)

subd

AHelm3

iTrader: (7)

In also.

My buddy had great results with Fat Mat. We did the entire bed of his S-10 so the 4 Type-R's didn't rattle it to ****.

Ive got 2-10s in my trunk and my interior and deck lid rattle to all hell when I crank it up.
What are good spots to hit with deadener?

yellowsupercharged06

iTrader: (3)

racecars dont use this stuff !

addes weight, spend the $$ on a zzp exhaust and you wont want to hinder your exhaust sound

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I may be switching to a ZZP catted longtube with a 3" ZZP exhaust. We will see.

Plus, I am not trying to hide the sound, I want my bluetooth to work better!

intel

iTrader: (1)

EmpJJ might be someone you want to talk to, he's done some crazy stuff with sound dampening and might be able to give you some opinions...

Also, on a side note, what brand did you end up going with for the automotive base coat?

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I figure he will chime in, I also bumped his stolen car thread.


I never picked one. I saw some of the work the dude who I was going to have do it and change my mind lol. I need to find some one that is not spraying parts with harbor freight tools and the knowledge of youtube haha.

breds2k

iTrader: (1)

I plan to get 100sq ft of fatmat and do the whole floor, all 4 doors, rear deck, whole trunk and trunk lid. Might need 150sq ft we will see.

100 SQUARE FEET IS 23 POUNDS. And that's more than most people will use, so the weight is not an issue here. If your looking to do the trunk lid and rear deck and maybe your front doors, I bet 30 sq feet would be fine (but id go with a 50sqft pack to be safe) and your looking at under 15 lbs. So stop the whole weight savings thing because its bullshit. 20lbs isnt going to slow your car down unless your a avid autox racer and at that point the car should be gutted.

With fatmatting everything, there will be noticably less road noise, doors will seal better and have a nicer "clunk" to them and should improve the overall feel of the cars build quality says some.

There is one guy in here that did all this about 2 years ago....EVERYTHING in the car was done and did add about 50lbs. but he did the roof and the dashboard and stuff like that.

Drunkship

I've only ever used Second Skin. When I had a system in HS the company was small but cheaper than Dynamat. Plus they gave out A LOT of free samples for their products in development.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I'll look at that. I don't have a huge system, stock actually. May upgrade amp and speakers but keeping stock sub. I am wanting to do this for road and exhaust noise.

Shanedude

Good idea BlackSSstg2. So much road noise esp in rain/winter.

kxrida2000

iTrader: (12)

Lizard skin works the best and is the lightest if u wanna take the time and effort to apply it. Not really reversible though

I've had good results with fat and dynamat also.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

Is that a paint on?

I prefer stick on sheets so that I can easily go around cables and wires. Never know what might needs replaced or removed in the future.

I see 50 square feet of Fat Mat for 89.99 shipped. It's the 50 mil stuff (I think). Not too bad and seems like it should suit my needs and wants

riceburner

iTrader: (66)

Subd... i never use my radio, got a 2.8" pulley to listen to instead but getting rid of dash rattles has been on my to do list since day one with this car

Then again the process is really simple...have a ten mil handy and a flatblade screwdriver and the whole interior comes apart pretty much lol. Place preferred matting in all areas you can, leaving room for clips...maybe get rid of some of the stock damping stuff to compensate... use expanding foam in remote areas that are hard to get to or for clip areas

bmartz1991

iTrader: (35)

The only rattling that bugs me if I'm bumping is the ******* sound the rear view mirror makes when it shakes.

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

I figure the areas I listed should take out a majority of road noise. I don't really want to pull carpet because of time required but I'll have left over if what I do is not enough.

xxenjoi11

iTrader: (10)

Emp recommended Second Skin to me when i did this. LOVE the stuff, I have the damplifier pro and regular stuff. super tacky and real workable. i'd highly recommend it myself.

I'd definitely get one of these though, makes it infinite times easier. Also, it will make sure 100% of the adhesive is attached to metal. I wouldn't skimp on a cheap one of these either, this one is heavy duty as I was putting all my 160 pound frame into it and no signs of wear.

intel

iTrader: (1)

Dang, I didn't even know emp's car was stolen... I saw his thread after you mentioned it, hope everything works out for him.

breds2k

iTrader: (1)

oh ****!!! That was the car that had all the dynamat done to it!

xxenjoi11

iTrader: (10)

yeah i cried a little inside when i found that out, he was the reason i went all out and put the sound deadener on in the first place

bmartz1991

iTrader: (35)

Emp is deff the man when it comes to audio on here.

UltraSilverSS

iTrader: (2)

Look into NVX its .091" thick which is thicker than most of the competition and at a very good price. I just picked up 12 sq ft for $39

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ntire-Car.html

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

thanks guys, ya it really really really sucks about the car ...


this is truely a hard question... mainly because its really complex. its almost impossible as a consumer to tell the difference between products. The only concrete thing you can do is to stay away from asphalt products but some products are a blend so even that isnt 100%.

Regardless of what you use if you are not going for a ton of coverage you will want to hit the large flat areas first and apply the product preferably in the middle. The better adhesion you can get the better the results. This generally isnt an issue with better products but going the extra mile when cleaning and using a roller maybe heat gun pays off in the end.

Looking at your list i would tackle the trunk/wheel well first as those made the biggest difference that i could hear. I know you didnt list it but throwing some on the quarter panels is a good idea too (largest single piece of metal in our cars with absolutely nothing for dampening) The only ones i would do last would be under the seat (put 2 small pieces if that, the foam of the seat makes this really the least effective area to dampen) and while it makes sense to hit the rear deck lid i would do that last as well. its farely rigid as its not flat so while some dampening wouldnt hurt save it for the end if at all

and as always heres the link to my ss thread and a few useful links as well

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/elec...thread-197926/
Vibration test results - P&S or not to P&S, that is the question... - Car Audio Classifieds

drumrush

iTrader: (8)

I love my second skin trunk! Damplifier pro works great And is good quality. I got a Ton for half price because the backing was hard to peel off on the batch I got

blueLNFftw

iTrader: (16)

This is what I ended up doing. I layed two layers behind the sub and on the floor on the exhaust side. What a difference in exhaust drone inside the cabin as well as fullness of the bass. I recommend this to anyone looking to quiet down their car.

I am going to pull the back seat and do underneath it next as well as the door skins.