fi btl n2 solution
11-24-2010, 09:23 PM
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fi btl n2 solution
ok....so i know brickloaf on here has an older fi btl and has it sounding tight etc.....he has it running at 1500 rms.....i have a new fi btl n2 running at 2500 rms....i'm wondering what kind of box solution i need to run this decently in my car. From an educated guess, I want to know whether people should think i should port or seal it, and if I should in fact port it, should i port it through my rear deck into the car or now. Any advice would be helpful as I am up in New Jersey at MTT right now and would appreciate any help given. Thanks guys, let me know.
11-25-2010, 12:51 PM
#2
im running a t20001bd on my BTL....i didnt even know they had newer versions (time to upgrade 
)but im gunna say port it at 35hz and have the port facing the rear of the car and you will be more than happy....
i usually roll around with my back seats down for some extra thump also, which makes a huge difference IMO
)but im gunna say port it at 35hz and have the port facing the rear of the car and you will be more than happy....i usually roll around with my back seats down for some extra thump also, which makes a huge difference IMO
11-28-2010, 10:22 PM
#4
well even the btl in a custom box is going to sound like **** unless you use sound deadening on like half the car....if you dont have any dynamat or anything prepare to hear nothing but loud rattling/metal vibrating noises
11-29-2010, 01:14 PM
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11-29-2010, 06:49 PM
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focus on trunk lid (multiple layers on trunk lid), rear deck (both sides), base of trunk under spare and all around the sides, and you may want to take out the bottom part of the rear seats and cover that too..
the doors and roof will flex a little too but barley make any noise so its not going to make to much of a noise difference if you cover em
also quarter panels make a huge difference but be ready to spend hours to get to access the panels to lay the second skin
the doors and roof will flex a little too but barley make any noise so its not going to make to much of a noise difference if you cover em
also quarter panels make a huge difference but be ready to spend hours to get to access the panels to lay the second skin
11-30-2010, 07:07 PM
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i've got plenty of time haha. im in school for this right now and we're in the bay, so i'll have plenty of help etc. but its awesome to know specifics for our car, esp when everyone looks at my car and is like wtf car is that.
12-05-2010, 12:53 PM
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focus on trunk lid (multiple layers on trunk lid), rear deck (both sides), base of trunk under spare and all around the sides, and you may want to take out the bottom part of the rear seats and cover that too..
the doors and roof will flex a little too but barley make any noise so its not going to make to much of a noise difference if you cover em
also quarter panels make a huge difference but be ready to spend hours to get to access the panels to lay the second skin
the doors and roof will flex a little too but barley make any noise so its not going to make to much of a noise difference if you cover em
also quarter panels make a huge difference but be ready to spend hours to get to access the panels to lay the second skin
12-05-2010, 05:39 PM
#9
also, by quarter panels, do you mean the panels behind the taillights? if so why is this so hard to get to. and if you don't mind letting me know, how many cu/ft is your box? i'm thinking about going smaller since some of it is going to be fiber glass...more towards the 2.0 to 2.1 than the max of 2.5. let me know
12-06-2010, 01:06 PM
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BTL-N2 pics - SMD Forum
Anyways, in terms of glassing, i plan on doing the front and sides in fiberglass molded outward with the back top and bottom being carpeted. I'll have to reinforce the **** out of the molding though, but it'll be worth it. and 2.5 net you mean port vol. included? Let me know man. Thanks as usual guys.
12-06-2010, 01:48 PM
#12
damn thats what i thought... i just saw those pics last week for the first time. no offence but that thing looks sorta shitty. but performance is all that counts right?
when using fiberglass on a sub box for a sub that big you are going to need to use alot. not alot of resin but alot of actual fiberglass (too much resin is bad you want just enough so that the fiberglass is completely soaked) on any flat parts i would try and use wood. it will keep costs down and make it easier on you
when using fiberglass on a sub box for a sub that big you are going to need to use alot. not alot of resin but alot of actual fiberglass (too much resin is bad you want just enough so that the fiberglass is completely soaked) on any flat parts i would try and use wood. it will keep costs down and make it easier on you
12-06-2010, 06:56 PM
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damn thats what i thought... i just saw those pics last week for the first time. no offence but that thing looks sorta shitty. but performance is all that counts right?
when using fiberglass on a sub box for a sub that big you are going to need to use alot. not alot of resin but alot of actual fiberglass (too much resin is bad you want just enough so that the fiberglass is completely soaked) on any flat parts i would try and use wood. it will keep costs down and make it easier on you
when using fiberglass on a sub box for a sub that big you are going to need to use alot. not alot of resin but alot of actual fiberglass (too much resin is bad you want just enough so that the fiberglass is completely soaked) on any flat parts i would try and use wood. it will keep costs down and make it easier on you
As for the fiberglass matting (tigerhair w/e you want to call it), resin, and bondo, I get all of that for free. It's provided by the school as part of the lab fee so i get to go buckwild on that ****. and yea, for the flat parts i'm going to just use wood and carpet, i tend to like that look better anyways.
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