i want a w6 i think
08-25-2008, 04:24 AM
#1
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i want a w6 i think
I want a sub i can take out in my balt.... Just a 10"..... is it worth it? what amp would be good? anything else i need? Can i still use my stock sub?
08-25-2008, 06:03 AM
#3
If you add a sub you have to disconnect the stock one, it will sound like **** if you don't.
Like the above post said he has a w6, "in a ported box" and it sounds great.
If you want to make it removable then you should pick a sub that doesn't require so much air space to run, or run it in a sealed box, just make sure the box its built to spec. and slides in and out of the pinner trunk opening we have.
Are you going to be changing your HU?
As for amps well that depends on alot of things, money being the biggest one.
A w6 is going to require a decent amount of power to run right, the obove poster has a JL audio 1800D running his sub, about 1000 watts, not sure how much it set him back but I'm guessing upwards of $500.00
Like the above post said he has a w6, "in a ported box" and it sounds great.
If you want to make it removable then you should pick a sub that doesn't require so much air space to run, or run it in a sealed box, just make sure the box its built to spec. and slides in and out of the pinner trunk opening we have.
Are you going to be changing your HU?
As for amps well that depends on alot of things, money being the biggest one.
A w6 is going to require a decent amount of power to run right, the obove poster has a JL audio 1800D running his sub, about 1000 watts, not sure how much it set him back but I'm guessing upwards of $500.00
08-25-2008, 01:13 PM
#9
Senior Member
Pics of my system for those who haven't seen it already:
08-25-2008, 09:55 PM
#12
OK so you want to keep your stock HU.
One 10w6 (There are better subs out there. Plus there cheaper than the JL's) in a box built to spec. A mono amp that puts out 500-600 watts at 2ohms.
With the amount of power you want to get into that sub, you need to Use a RF 360.1 or a JL clean sweap.
Heres the deal, The HU is where it all starts, if your not putting out enough power from there, then you can put thousands and thousands of dollars worth of equipment back there and it will never sound like you want it to. If your going to half ass something the signal going to the amps is not the place to do it(IMO). If not you should just go buy a sony xplode sub/amp combo cuz its going to sound the same
Spend the $$ Buy the processor you won't be dissapointed.
A guy at the shop i go to has a brand new G37 coupe, he's running 2 DD 9512's from a DD M3, This setup pounds, but due to the navagation system he had to keep the stock HU, he used a MTX REQ and it sound just as good as any aftermarket Hu would sound, The DD S4 and the Focal Utopia's up front make it all that much better but you get my point
One 10w6 (There are better subs out there. Plus there cheaper than the JL's) in a box built to spec. A mono amp that puts out 500-600 watts at 2ohms.
With the amount of power you want to get into that sub, you need to Use a RF 360.1 or a JL clean sweap.
Heres the deal, The HU is where it all starts, if your not putting out enough power from there, then you can put thousands and thousands of dollars worth of equipment back there and it will never sound like you want it to. If your going to half ass something the signal going to the amps is not the place to do it(IMO). If not you should just go buy a sony xplode sub/amp combo cuz its going to sound the same
Spend the $$ Buy the processor you won't be dissapointed.
A guy at the shop i go to has a brand new G37 coupe, he's running 2 DD 9512's from a DD M3, This setup pounds, but due to the navagation system he had to keep the stock HU, he used a MTX REQ and it sound just as good as any aftermarket Hu would sound, The DD S4 and the Focal Utopia's up front make it all that much better but you get my point
08-26-2008, 01:33 AM
#14
For subs?
I have 2 Digital Designs 2512's , so I'm partial to DD
I had 2 10" JL's before and swaped them for the DD
The 2500 series can handle more power than the w6 (750w vs 600w)
They sound way cleaner (IMO)
Heres the great part, they are half the price, I paid $600 (Can) for both 12's
There amps are great to, I had a RF Power 1100a2 (Birth sheet said 1490 watts) I traded it in for a DD M2 (1700 watts). To run 1 2510, you would only need an C2.
So you get a 2510, and a C2 to run it, and you would pay about the same (give or take ) as you would for just the 10w6, and IMO it sounds way better.
Don't get me wrong JL Audio still make good subs, there just made for people who want all bass, and there way, way over priced.
Hell for the same price you buy a 12w6 for you can get a RE sub, there not even close, the RE is a way better sub capable of handling 3 times the wattage then the JL, they just alot of air space to move.
http://www.ddaudio.com/dd/default.asp
BTW-If you want to see my setup look further down the Electonics page for a thread called "I got bored so what"
I have 2 Digital Designs 2512's , so I'm partial to DD
I had 2 10" JL's before and swaped them for the DD
The 2500 series can handle more power than the w6 (750w vs 600w)
They sound way cleaner (IMO)
Heres the great part, they are half the price, I paid $600 (Can) for both 12's
There amps are great to, I had a RF Power 1100a2 (Birth sheet said 1490 watts) I traded it in for a DD M2 (1700 watts). To run 1 2510, you would only need an C2.
So you get a 2510, and a C2 to run it, and you would pay about the same (give or take ) as you would for just the 10w6, and IMO it sounds way better.
Don't get me wrong JL Audio still make good subs, there just made for people who want all bass, and there way, way over priced.
Hell for the same price you buy a 12w6 for you can get a RE sub, there not even close, the RE is a way better sub capable of handling 3 times the wattage then the JL, they just alot of air space to move.
http://www.ddaudio.com/dd/default.asp
BTW-If you want to see my setup look further down the Electonics page for a thread called "I got bored so what"
