DaveBlank

first a little background. i had 2-10" jl audio subs and a rockford fosgate 400watt 2 channel amp out of my s-10. wanted to install them in cobalt ls that doesn't have the pioneer system usin stock head unit. one friend told me all i needed was a line out converter blah blah blah, i agreed to let him do it. he done a horrible/sloppy job, he just cut the wires to my rear speaker and plugged them into the converter. i drove around like this for a month before i took them out. i talked to a couple audio shops in the area and they said i cut have both my rear speakers and the subs, they would install for $350-500, i thought that was a little pricey so here i am. how do i "tap" into my rear speaker wires? i pretty much know how to hook up everything else?

NCC-2000

You pretty much do what was originally done, but keep the speakers connected at the same time. There was no reason for him to cut your wires and leave them cut. Just hook it all back up but connect both the speakers and the converter to the wires in the back.

ctcsoccer7

if you have the factory sub you need to wire the LOC into that. just re connect the rear speakers.

AROON02

also in most cars the wiring is already instaleed for speakers ans stuff like that simply because why make multiple harnesses ya kno, take a look behind driveers side trunk paneling to see if anythings there hes a ******* for that by the way good lluck

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

^^^ no sub wiring in non pioneer systems? any pics of how bad the damage was? THat is a little pricey but shops dont normally charge up the ass for no reason. often times its much more expensive to redo a fucked up install then just do it in the first place. example we charge $90 for an 8g amp install but if if we have to fix someone elses friends amp install it goes to like 120. also depends on what all happened.

It could be as easy as reconnecting the speakers and done. but that price may include speakers and install because he trashed the stock ones. i cant tell unless i have a few detailed pics of the speaker situation

brickloaf

whats the difference between a 8g and 0g install?

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

here? about double the price 0g install would be right around 200

brickloaf

theres no difference at all besides the thickness of wires...why more expensive?

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

price of the wire and it is more difficult to install a thicker wire. period

That's why i have a vendetta with copper clad aluminum wire. something like CCA 4g doesn't have much more current flow then actual oxygen free copper 8g. Yes its more but not much. but like i said thicker wire is harder to run harder to work with ect ect so why waste my time effort and when it comes down to it the customers money on something that has no true gain at all other then a my dick is bigger then yours contest?

alot of things are fucked up in the car audio industry because companies got greedy and customers became stupider

brickloaf

ohh i didnt know you were including a wiring kit, i thought it was 200 for just a amp install.

well some people acctually need 0g, its just retarded when people want to put it on there 300 wt system

Spun

iTrader: (1)

Hey Emp have you played around with the knukonceptz flex wire yet. Stinger has a flex line out too. I ended up using the Street wires 0 guage I had for my big three in my friends Jetta, it was cold out and wow that stuff turned into a nightmare (needed bigger wire to run a Kicker SX1250.1). Then when I went to replace it I found the stinger flex wire.

What a difference, so easy work with

DaveBlank

i don't hae a camera to take pics at the moment so i will try to describe it. i still have the remote power up line ran from passenger side fuse box, the wires that went to my rear speakers have the little plugs/clips cut from them and there is crimp on connectors just hanging in the breeze. i still have the plugs/clips that go into the rear speakers. do i just need to put the plugs back on and connector or solder to bare wire before the plug?

NCC-2000

Yeah if you put the stock plugs back on those wires, you can plug your rear speakers back in, then it's just a matter of hooking up the LOC and setting up the rest of the system.

brickloaf

Knu wire is super flexible, i have like 20 ft of it balled up in to like a 1 sq ft ball up in my room

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

right i agree. at the shop we have plenty of **** that would take 0g happily... i mean if i counted it up we probably have more 1kw rms and up subs then lower... and we have the amps to back it up too. not saying we do it often but if someone really wanted to we could do a wall with 4 RE MT 18s off a T2kw per sub and start tomorrow

never messed with the knu flex or streetwires. only the kollosas an klmx when it comes to knu. the stinger wire is nice thou. slightly smaller version of the fosgate or kicker wire which are my favorite in that order

x2 the only thing i was worried about was how close he cut them off. just reattach the plugs and all and leave the loc wires inline as well

DaveBlank

will probably try this today, thanks everyone