installing gauges in our cars (2.4)
#26
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I would run the output power from the relay to the first gauge, then splice the second gauge into the first gauge the the third into the second, daisy chain style. You will need the add a fuse, that power goes to the positive trigger of the relay, the 20 or 30 amp fused power from the battery goes to the common (or input) then you run the normally open (thats what the diagram you get with it is going to call the output) then the grounds go to ground. Once you have the stuff in your hands your gonna go DUH, this is easy!
you could also just wait for the next DC cobalt meet and we can wire it up in like 10 minutes
you could also just wait for the next DC cobalt meet and we can wire it up in like 10 minutes
Last edited by tsunam1; 05-21-2008 at 11:29 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#27
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I would run the output power from the relay to the first gauge, then splice the second gauge into the first gauge the the third into the second, daisy chain style. You will need the add a fuse, that power goes to the positive trigger of the relay, the 20 or 30 amp fused power from the battery goes to the common (or input) then you run the normally open (thats what the diagram you get with it is going to call the output) then the grounds go to ground. Once you have the stuff in your hands your gonna go DUH, this is easy!
you could also just wait for the next DC cobalt meet and we can wire it up in like 10 minutes
you could also just wait for the next DC cobalt meet and we can wire it up in like 10 minutes
#29
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Battery power right off of the battery and a ground, put you fuse close to the battery, then run the power and ground wire under the carpet to where the fuse panel is and connect them to the relay. Locate your gauges and run 12 or 14 gauge wire (one for ground and one for power) from the gauge location to the relay and connect the power to the output of the relay and ground on ground. Then install your gauges and splice them all together (electronically its all the same whether you splice near the gauge or at the relay, at the gauge is just less wire through the dash) once that is done connect the power lead from the add a fuse to the switched power of the relay then add a 15 amp fuse and insert the sunroof fuse into the add a fuse then install the add a fuse where the sunroof relay was. All of you grounds will tie together. ANY autoparts store will have everything you need right in the electrical section, try advance or autozone.
The gauges should come with inline fuses, if not and you need them, they autoparts store will have them also. Install them near the gauges under the dash, then splice them together and run your supply wire from there back to the relay.
The gauges should come with inline fuses, if not and you need them, they autoparts store will have them also. Install them near the gauges under the dash, then splice them together and run your supply wire from there back to the relay.
Last edited by tsunam1; 05-22-2008 at 12:21 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#30
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Battery power right off of the battery and a ground, put you fuse close to the battery, then run the power and ground wire under the carpet to where the fuse panel is and connect them to the relay. Locate your gauges and run 12 or 14 gauge wire (one for ground and one for power) from the gauge location to the relay and connect the power to the output of the relay and ground on ground. Then install your gauges and splice them all together (electronically its all the same whether you splice near the gauge or at the relay, at the gauge is just less wire through the dash) once that is done connect the power lead from the add a fuse to the switched power of the relay then add a 15 amp fuse and insert the sunroof fuse into the add a fuse then install the add a fuse where the sunroof relay was. All of you grounds will tie together. ANY autoparts store will have everything you need right in the electrical section, try advance or autozone.
The gauges should come with inline fuses, if not and you need them, they autoparts store will have them also. Install them near the gauges under the dash, then splice them together and run your supply wire from there back to the relay.
The gauges should come with inline fuses, if not and you need them, they autoparts store will have them also. Install them near the gauges under the dash, then splice them together and run your supply wire from there back to the relay.
1. hook up power/ground for relay
2. splice all gauges power/ground? together
3. run wire from main gauge to the relay output
the fuse part is what looses me i understand that the relay uses a 20A or 30A fuse, but i dont understand what the sunroof fuse fuse has to do with it, nor do i understand how you know where to put the fuse
ahh ok the sunroof provides the switched source?
Last edited by mike25; 05-22-2008 at 12:36 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#31
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You have two powers going to the relay. The one from the sunroof fuse is the "hey turn on" power, it is what turns the relay on. The second power wire is the one that is going to power your Gauges. When the relay is off, I.E the car off, the relay will not send that power to the gauges, it will sit there at the relay, when you start the car the power from the sunroof circuit will power up a magnet in the relay that will physically pull a metal contact plate in the relay making a connection between two terminals, the one that you ran battery power to, and the one you ran the gauge power wire to. The fuses are just incase the wiring shorts out, like by rubbing against the body until the insulation comes off. so you have a power lead coming off of the gauge so you put an in line fuse there in case something in the dash pinches it (so one for each gauge, but that is optional, preference if you will, you really only need the one at the battery) The fuse in the add a fuse is just so you can get power to the relay.
yes, the sunroof is the switched source. And so you know ground is ground is ground, so you can ground anyway you want that is not plastic, i just prefer to have one on the battery as it reduces the likelihood of getting interference in the electrical system, like audio stuff...
yes, the sunroof is the switched source. And so you know ground is ground is ground, so you can ground anyway you want that is not plastic, i just prefer to have one on the battery as it reduces the likelihood of getting interference in the electrical system, like audio stuff...
Last edited by tsunam1; 05-22-2008 at 12:42 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#32
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You have two powers going to the relay. The one from the sunroof fuse is the "hey turn on" power, it is what turns the relay on. The second power wire is the one that is going to power your Gauges. When the relay is off, I.E the car off, the relay will not send that power to the gauges, it will sit there at the relay, when you start the car the power from the sunroof circuit will power up a magnet in the relay that will physically pull a metal contact plate in the relay making a connection between two terminals, the one that you ran battery power to, and the one you ran the gauge power wire to. The fuses are just incase the wiring shorts out, like by rubbing against the body until the insulation comes off. so you have a power lead coming off of the gauge so you put an in line fuse there in case something in the dash pinches it (so one for each gauge, but that is optional, preference if you will, you really only need the one at the battery) The fuse in the add a fuse is just so you can get power to the relay.
yes, the sunroof is the switched source. And so you know ground is ground is ground, so you can ground anyway you want that is not plastic, i just prefer to have one on the battery as it reduces the likelihood of getting interference in the electrical system, like audio stuff...
yes, the sunroof is the switched source. And so you know ground is ground is ground, so you can ground anyway you want that is not plastic, i just prefer to have one on the battery as it reduces the likelihood of getting interference in the electrical system, like audio stuff...
#33
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You got it, the relay doesn't pull much at all, thats why you use it. So I would just put in a 15amp in that second add a fuse slot and you will never have to replace it unless you short it some how, the are tight in the holder so if you don't have to remove it thats good.
#34
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You got it, the relay doesn't pull much at all, thats why you use it. So I would just put in a 15amp in that second add a fuse slot and you will never have to replace it unless you short it some how, the are tight in the holder so if you don't have to remove it thats good.
also as for grounding all the gauges, how would i go about grounding all them? (could i connect them all to one wire and send them back to the relays ground wire?
#35
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ok, basically the relay is going to go in the trunk right? and how do you get those connectors to stay on the battery? power/ground
I would run wire from the battery + & - (you can get a crimp on ring terminal that will go on the screw of the battery clamps) under the carpet to the fuse panel and have the relay at the fuse panel, there is a ton of room there and it will be easier to access, and you have more connections there.
also as for grounding all the gauges, how would i go about grounding all them? (could i connect them all to one wire and send them back to the relays ground wire?
Yes
I would run wire from the battery + & - (you can get a crimp on ring terminal that will go on the screw of the battery clamps) under the carpet to the fuse panel and have the relay at the fuse panel, there is a ton of room there and it will be easier to access, and you have more connections there.
also as for grounding all the gauges, how would i go about grounding all them? (could i connect them all to one wire and send them back to the relays ground wire?
Yes
#36
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ok, basically the relay is going to go in the trunk right? and how do you get those connectors to stay on the battery? power/ground
I would run wire from the battery + & - (you can get a crimp on ring terminal that will go on the screw of the battery clamps) under the carpet to the fuse panel and have the relay at the fuse panel, there is a ton of room there and it will be easier to access, and you have more connections there.
also as for grounding all the gauges, how would i go about grounding all them? (could i connect them all to one wire and send them back to the relays ground wire?
Yes
I would run wire from the battery + & - (you can get a crimp on ring terminal that will go on the screw of the battery clamps) under the carpet to the fuse panel and have the relay at the fuse panel, there is a ton of room there and it will be easier to access, and you have more connections there.
also as for grounding all the gauges, how would i go about grounding all them? (could i connect them all to one wire and send them back to the relays ground wire?
Yes
#38
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this is what i did, i used the sunroof fuse because it was the only thing not close to say.. an air bag fuse lol. i used an 'add-a-fuse' to tap the sunroof fuse and voila... a 2nd fuse with a 12v switched line. connect power line and run to guages power
#39
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so your saying you did that relay thing too?
Last edited by mike25; 05-22-2008 at 01:23 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#40
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No they don't you get it on a small spool.
As for Senior, he just used the power straight of the add a fuse the found bare metal and grounded his gauges there. You can do that, there is nothing wrong with that, you just need to know how much power the gauge you add pulls, if it is more than 15 for all three combined, then you need a relay. If it is less than 15 you can do as brown did. Read the power requirements for the gauges and go from there on which way you do it. It is definitely easier to not use the relay if you don't need that much power. Fog lights, hid's and the like HAVE to have a relay, gauges I don't know, depends on the gauge.
As for Senior, he just used the power straight of the add a fuse the found bare metal and grounded his gauges there. You can do that, there is nothing wrong with that, you just need to know how much power the gauge you add pulls, if it is more than 15 for all three combined, then you need a relay. If it is less than 15 you can do as brown did. Read the power requirements for the gauges and go from there on which way you do it. It is definitely easier to not use the relay if you don't need that much power. Fog lights, hid's and the like HAVE to have a relay, gauges I don't know, depends on the gauge.
#41
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well the autometer instructions say this for the oil gauge:
CAUTION!
As a safety precaution, the
+12V terminal of this product
should be fused before
connecting to the 12V ignition
switch. We recommend using
a 1 Amp, 3AG fast-acting type
cartridge fuse (LittlefuseŽ #
312 001 or an equivalent).
im guessing thats what fuse i need to use for the gauge right? just a one amp?
im not sure what my mechanical boost gauge uses...maybe a 1 amp also
and the wideband i couldnt find...which means im guessing itd be safe to assume theyd add up to maybe 15a or so....if i dont do the relay and do what senior did would i just tap all the gauge power wires to run right off the add a fuse wire and then find a ground for all three?
CAUTION!
As a safety precaution, the
+12V terminal of this product
should be fused before
connecting to the 12V ignition
switch. We recommend using
a 1 Amp, 3AG fast-acting type
cartridge fuse (LittlefuseŽ #
312 001 or an equivalent).
im guessing thats what fuse i need to use for the gauge right? just a one amp?
im not sure what my mechanical boost gauge uses...maybe a 1 amp also
and the wideband i couldnt find...which means im guessing itd be safe to assume theyd add up to maybe 15a or so....if i dont do the relay and do what senior did would i just tap all the gauge power wires to run right off the add a fuse wire and then find a ground for all three?
#42
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Wow, thats nothing. yeah, just use the add a fuse, and ground it where ever you can get to bare metal. So you would go add a fuse to wire to gauge location, then split it into 3 wires, put your individual inline fuses for each gauge on, then attach and install gauge,, done.
#43
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Wow, thats nothing. yeah, just use the add a fuse, and ground it where ever you can get to bare metal. So you would go add a fuse to wire to gauge location, then split it into 3 wires, put your individual inline fuses for each gauge on, then attach and install gauge,, done.
#47
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Yes, if it requires a max 1 amp fuse, then it is probably only pulling 1/2 that, so with that logic you could add 15 of them before you had a problem. Just put a 15 amp fuse in the add a fuse then wire as you sated above and you are good.
#48
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oky doky, ill give it a try as soon as my gauges come in here in the next day or so, and i really appreciate you taking the time to explain all this, lol....i know it had to be rought for you....anyways ill keep this thread updated on how i make out...thanks again for the help
#50
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ok i picked up some 14 gauge wiring for my power as well as the add a fuse and i couldnt find any of the in-line fuses....i looked but i couldnt find them...do i have to have them?
well n/m forgot about when you said they were preference....but another question....the add a fuse i bought says 2-10A....does that mean i can put 2 10 amp fuses in there? or does it have to be two 5 amp fuse ?
well n/m forgot about when you said they were preference....but another question....the add a fuse i bought says 2-10A....does that mean i can put 2 10 amp fuses in there? or does it have to be two 5 amp fuse ?
Last edited by mike25; 05-23-2008 at 03:48 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost