DavidLaMattina

iTrader: (3)

So I just purchased a new system for the cobalt, and it's my first ever actual system so I'm real excited - it's nothing insane, but nothing crappy.. and I know each of you are going to have your own opinion, but to each his own!

Setup:
Sony CDXGT650UI head unit (I know, it's nothing amazing, but it will do for now!)

Alpine MRP-M500 500W x 1 at 2 Ohms Amplifier

Alpine SWE-1243 12" 4-Ohm component subwoofer

12" Sealed MDF Enclosure

Soundstream WK-8G wiring kit


I do have a couple of questions:
1 - I know that if I don't install the PAC thing that I will lose my door chimes and turn signal clicking correct? Those are my only reprocutions? I can always add the thing later If i want it right?

2 - What is the best way to run all the wires and stuff? (to engine bay, to trunk etc.) I know that I'm going to have to take off a lot of trim and such but do I have to remove the whole back seat to get the box in and the wires ran cleanly?

3 - anything I need to be aware of? problems? tricks? tips? it's an 09 Cobalt LT with out Pioneer and without OnStar.

RedStil

sub'd

Garret

iTrader: (1)

Because the battery is in the trunk you can keep a lot of wires in the trunk. Your power and ground to your amp can be kept in the trunk. You will have to run the satellite (remote) wire and rca's somewhere. I used a LOC so its all in my trunk

Silv3r

Yea the power and grounds are easy since the battery is in the trunk. I was able to just slip my rca's and remote wire under the backseat right in the corner, down the side of the seat, and then i slipped it into the plastic trim just inside the bottom of the door, you dont even need to pull it off ( although you may need to pull up and out to release it slighty, then push it back in). From there, you can look up under your glove box and see a hole that leads to the radio compartment. So easy.

My head unit wouldnt fit with the metal bracket in the back, so i had to modify the bracket a little bit (meaning i stuck a 2 foot pc of 2x4 in there and gave it a whack with a hammer to bend it back lol). I have the pioneer system so I used a GMOS-LAN-04 to keep my chimes and turn signals... its a bitch to fit it all in the dash lol. I think the PAC module just retains your steering wheel controls does it not? I might be wrong.

If you do need to remove the back seats, its pretty easy. The top comes off with a flat blade screwdriver slid down the passenger side of the rear seat to push in a little latch. I dont think I had to remove the bottom part, and my box is huge. You can search the forums on how to remove rear seats.

GL on the install! Patience and a few beers help.

DavidLaMattina

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for all the information man! and Yeah I'm not using the PAC thing to retain the chimes or anything, I don't really care about those in fact I think their annoying... I also do not have steering wheel radio controls, just cruise control stuff on the steering wheel so I should be good there too.

I will post any questions I have back in this thread while I'm installing it all, and will also post a few pictures when I'm done!

b00sted06ss

iTrader: (10)

sub'd did you buy all of this from sonic electronix?

DavidLaMattina

iTrader: (3)

Only thing I bought from Sonic was the box, (although I stole the picture of the wiring kit from sonic). Sub, amp and head unit are coming from Crutchfield, wiring kit off Ebay.

DavidLaMattina

iTrader: (3)

How was the sound with the LOC? I was thinking of going that route but people said it may alter the sound quality - where as running it straight from the head unit would give much better sound.

tglems

iTrader: (3)

Good start. Just my .2, but your system will sound better and you'll not put as much strain on your battery/alternator if you get a capacitor. I don't know why so many people overlook them, but you need one.

You should be able to pick up a 1farad for about $30ish bucks.

DavidLaMattina

iTrader: (3)

What exactly does that do? How do I wire it in? Also, can I add it later?

tglems

iTrader: (3)

You can add it later, but it goes in between the amp and the battery. What is does is stores charge and delivers it quickly so when your sub hits you get instant response, instead of the slow response you get with just a battery where your lights go dim and the sub doesn't hit as well. Here is a quick little blurb...

Car Audio Advice Terminology And Education | Capacitors

DavidLaMattina

iTrader: (3)

Awesome, so I'd only need a one farad right?

Garret

iTrader: (1)

The loc is definitely not audiophile quality. I'm using my stock H/U though so I had to. If I do go aftermarket then the loc is going in the trash.

tglems

iTrader: (3)

You'd probably want between .5 - 1 farad.

Silv3r

I have a 1farad on mine, I didn't mention it because you haven't got a rediculous amp. But it couldn't hurt putting one in. Just screw it to the side of your sub box, and you wire it inline on the pos wire from the battery to the amp, as close to the amp as possible.

Turbalt2010

iTrader: (4)

system looks good man. goodluck with it!
not trying to thread jack but i got a question on the capcitor.

where would be the best place to get one? i looked on ebay but idk if they have good ones. any brands better then others?
thanks

ericgt79

iTrader: (7)

wait till emp sees your thread he will get you straight with whatever question you have but i wish you had look at my for sale thread i have that same amp for sale right now.

DavidLaMattina

iTrader: (3)

Dang, oh well - was it a good amp while you had it?

ericgt79

iTrader: (7)

yea it hit my 12 nicely i honestly dont know why i took it out but i for some odd reason got a new amp and 10" sub just a totally new system altogether.

tglems

iTrader: (3)

Most caps are pretty equivalent. Phoenix gold, rockford fosgate, lightning audio, etc. I saw a 1farad Rockford fosgate for $20 on ebay which is a good deal, but I can't think of any "bad" brands off the top of my head...

Turbalt2010

iTrader: (4)

ok thanks