p_hanson

I am a pro! Been doing car audio for 20 years. Trust me, "cold solder joints" are not a worry when you know how to solder and have only proven to be a problem in engine/transmission wire harnesses that see extreme heat/cold cycles and other extreme conditions. Inside the car, under the dash is not a likely place for a "cold solder joint" condition. Butt splice connectors are an open source of failure and will fail 9 out of 10 times over a properly soldered connection. Behind the radio or under the dash the wires will not have a lot of room to flex and move which is what causes an improperly soldered joint to fail in the first place.

ctcsoccer7

ok....so in turn as you can tell this guy isnt a pro! so talking to him, and telling him what to do like a pro, seems kinda like a lost cause, Im not saying he knows how to properly solder or not, but if he doesnt then cold solder joints could happen , and they do happen under the dash or behind the radio. Im guessing he pulls he radio out alot or seldom, which in turn could cause a bad solder joint to happen. Im just saying , to say something will never happen is total BS.

cobalt123

I took the "buttend" off and soldered the too together before it was suggested here, but im thinking of replacing the remote wire all together seeing as it may have shorted out, i looked back there before i got the batteries so i gonna take it back out again, other than that i dont know what to say, it SHOULD be working.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

u need to get a dmm to test. othewise this is all a shot in the dark

Spun

iTrader: (1)

Did you want me to mail you a 9 volt for the multi-meter

I can't believe you haven't done this yet, the stereo is sitting in the car and all that stands between you and it playing is a battery?
I would have been down at 7-11 at 3am getting batteries if thats all it took, but hey thats me.

If you fear the battery store that much Then you could always just use a fuse tape in replacement of your remote wire to see if it is the problem, or piggy back it off the 12 volt source (only for testing, never do this when putting in a system, your amp will never turn off) and see if it turns on.Trouble shooting is usually not about finding out what does not work, its finding out what does work and then crossing it off the list of potential problems. Or at least thats works best for me

cobalt123

i know, i know, ive just been putting it off, actually i think i found the problem anyways, the pos neg connectors from the amp wire to the sub wire are like burnt to ****, i didnt see it before cuz they were inside the box, im talking major wire meltage, i guess that peice of **** amp that i did have was too much power for the type of wire that running, the fosgate isnt anywhere near 2000w so im gonna replace the connectors/wires on the amp to sub connection, completely replace the remote wire cuz its cheap and its better than a butt connection, with that ill be good to go

brickloaf

^^that old nitro amp wasnt anywhere close to 2000w either

cobalt123

whatever it was it hit hard when it work, couldn't withstand it sometimes, but yes it is a piece of ****