Need Sub-Woofer Help...
#26
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iTrader: (5)
Originally Posted by SilverTurboRidin
Im sorry i cant agree with anyone in this page, First off i cant listen to JBL only cause i have never used them. Second new Rockford's aernt even worth it unless you get the Stage 3's which are definitely not even that great. IF you choose to go with rockfords look for a decent set of HX2's or something on ebay....you get them at a deal now. As per Audiobahn, their not a BAD sub however, i dont think they produce as much bass or sound quality as needed.
Now im partial to JL's is what i have (JL W3V2's to be exact) two of them in 12's and i have never really heard anyone hit harder or sound better being i have them tapped into a 800watt monoblock amp. This setup is loud enough to make you feel your own heart beat in the front seat, also makes my rear view useless. But even on a smaller amp you will still get unbeatable sound.
The other hand, my mom whos on this site "superchrgdprincess" or something, I installed a set of subs in her car shortly after her 10" JLW3's had taken a ****. She now has 12" poweracoustik FUBR's which are a hard hitting sub, In a cobalt i have noticed its a little harder to get subs to that satisfactory level compared to my SRT-4. But needless to say those subs on a Directed Audio 2400 Watt amp, Hit Very hard and barely even dim the headlights or any other instrument cluster for that matter. Which is very crucial in building a high depth system. Her car will also now hit that low low bass note which you can feel.
ALSO TUNING of your system is crucial. Make sure it is tuned properly, i tune all of mine with a bass mechanics cd or the MTX tuning disc, Thats how you know your **** hits properly.
Now im partial to JL's is what i have (JL W3V2's to be exact) two of them in 12's and i have never really heard anyone hit harder or sound better being i have them tapped into a 800watt monoblock amp. This setup is loud enough to make you feel your own heart beat in the front seat, also makes my rear view useless. But even on a smaller amp you will still get unbeatable sound.
The other hand, my mom whos on this site "superchrgdprincess" or something, I installed a set of subs in her car shortly after her 10" JLW3's had taken a ****. She now has 12" poweracoustik FUBR's which are a hard hitting sub, In a cobalt i have noticed its a little harder to get subs to that satisfactory level compared to my SRT-4. But needless to say those subs on a Directed Audio 2400 Watt amp, Hit Very hard and barely even dim the headlights or any other instrument cluster for that matter. Which is very crucial in building a high depth system. Her car will also now hit that low low bass note which you can feel.
ALSO TUNING of your system is crucial. Make sure it is tuned properly, i tune all of mine with a bass mechanics cd or the MTX tuning disc, Thats how you know your **** hits properly.
#27
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Originally Posted by EmperorJJ1
thats pimp... im thinking about going to sq with my new balt (old car was spl only)... how much sound dampener did you usually use? im got 25 ft of hushmat for my doors when i roll around to them.
I could go into details, but I basicly pulled everything out of the interier and Dynamat Xtremed it (floor and ceiling), spray foamed the doors (light and very effective, but make sure you move the window up and down before it drys...), acoustic/heat shielded the hood and firewall, and used speaker baffles for all my speaker installs other than the subs.
If your going sealed box for your subs, which for SQ you should be, make sure you get the inside of the box ether coated with something like the Dynamat tiles or painted with a thick coat of sound dampening liquid. Also you might want to consider Dynamat'ing whatever part of the box will be against a hard surface and perm mounting it with bolts. In my truck, the box is made to exactly fit against the rear firewall and follow the contors of the floor. So we put a layer on the bottom and back of it, on the firewall and floor as well, put the box in, and bolted it to the firewall *and* floor. Then I put the custom fiberglass cover on it and installed the speakers.
Also, a few things you most likely know, but in case others don't. When you are running your speaker and power cables around, try to keep them apart. Even with good cables, you might get some noise bleed from the power onto the audio. High quality power and ground wiring helps everything that uses electricity in your car. I used Sun Hyper Ground cables for my rewired power, but that is expensive too. Also remember that Caps are your friend, specially if your amps pull lots of power.
#28
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iTrader: (5)
well actually i was hoping on doing ported or possibly ported that i can seal... only problem would be the airspace difference.. i could put 3 woofers and run 2 ported then 3 for sealed sq comps... not sure what this would do to the un used woofer thou.
ive herd of using sound damnener on the inside of a box but im not sure on how much to use... if i do use it it will be liquid and i may use second skin's new refector pads to help a lil too.
did you run the speakers ib? im hoping to do sealed to get a more controled sound and the damener and pads should give me a bit better sound over an ib setup.
ive herd of using sound damnener on the inside of a box but im not sure on how much to use... if i do use it it will be liquid and i may use second skin's new refector pads to help a lil too.
did you run the speakers ib? im hoping to do sealed to get a more controled sound and the damener and pads should give me a bit better sound over an ib setup.
#29
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Sealed is the way to go for SQ man. It's not about how loud it is at all, but about how good it sounds. Heck, the judges often don't even crank it that loud. Also, thats why I use those rubber baffles for all the speakers. It basicly seals the rear space of a speaker mounted in one, pretty much giving the same effect as a sealed sub. Tighter, fuller ranged sound, not quiet as loud at the same power level though.
Another thing is, I actually normally run my subs in stereo instead of mono. My last vehicle had two 8" under the seat for front r/l (mid/high bass) and two 12" behind the seats for rear r/l (low/mid bass). Total of 14 speakers.
*EDIT* Changed # speakers, realized I hit 6 instead of 4
Another thing is, I actually normally run my subs in stereo instead of mono. My last vehicle had two 8" under the seat for front r/l (mid/high bass) and two 12" behind the seats for rear r/l (low/mid bass). Total of 14 speakers.
*EDIT* Changed # speakers, realized I hit 6 instead of 4
Last edited by InfinityzeN; 10-21-2006 at 09:12 AM.
#30
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I love audiobahns. I have had JBL's, Audiobahns, ROckford Fosgate, and Audiomobile subwoofers. They all sound good but I love my audiobahns. I spent $300 for 2 AW1206T subs off ebay like 4 years ago...maybe 3. Never had any problems with them. They hit mad hard and rock. I use to push them with a JBL BP1200.1 and it rocked. The subs are 1100 Watts RMS each. I am partial to them. Now I am pushign them with a PPI DCX1500.1 and they rock...But my box is undersized right now. So soon they will rock your head off. I use to set off people alarms and so on. In a sealed box with the foam surround to gurantee they are sealed. I recommend Audiobahn
#31
Originally Posted by JRANGER
I love audiobahns. I have had JBL's, Audiobahns, ROckford Fosgate, and Audiomobile subwoofers. They all sound good but I love my audiobahns. I spent $300 for 2 AW1206T subs off ebay like 4 years ago...maybe 3. Never had any problems with them. They hit mad hard and rock. I use to push them with a JBL BP1200.1 and it rocked. The subs are 1100 Watts RMS each. I am partial to them. Now I am pushign them with a PPI DCX1500.1 and they rock...But my box is undersized right now. So soon they will rock your head off. I use to set off people alarms and so on. In a sealed box with the foam surround to gurantee they are sealed. I recommend Audiobahn
Im not gonna say audiobahns aint that good. However i just dont think they are as good as they say they are. I guarantee you, put 1100 rms to each speaker to hit its "sweet" point....they wont last more than a few hours at that rate the cone will over extend itself.
And you would need to give them more power to sound just as good as say, JL or Adire, HELL even a alpine type x
#32
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iTrader: (5)
Originally Posted by InfinityzeN
Sealed is the way to go for SQ man. It's not about how loud it is at all, but about how good it sounds. Heck, the judges often don't even crank it that loud. Also, thats why I use those rubber baffles for all the speakers. It basicly seals the rear space of a speaker mounted in one, pretty much giving the same effect as a sealed sub. Tighter, fuller ranged sound, not quiet as loud at the same power level though.
Another thing is, I actually normally run my subs in stereo instead of mono. My last vehicle had two 8" under the seat for front r/l (mid/high bass) and two 12" behind the seats for rear r/l (low/mid bass). Total of 16 speakers.
Another thing is, I actually normally run my subs in stereo instead of mono. My last vehicle had two 8" under the seat for front r/l (mid/high bass) and two 12" behind the seats for rear r/l (low/mid bass). Total of 16 speakers.
#35
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I have always used Kicker or JL. And have never been let down.
Good stuff.
I did use an Audiobahn amp and sub one time. That was a big wast of cash. Sub blew out in 6 weeks and after geting it replaced the amp went out about 2 months later. Got it replaced and sold that shiny crap!!!!!
Later
Good stuff.
I did use an Audiobahn amp and sub one time. That was a big wast of cash. Sub blew out in 6 weeks and after geting it replaced the amp went out about 2 months later. Got it replaced and sold that shiny crap!!!!!
Later
#37
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Originally Posted by JRANGER
I run mono. I will only Class D Mono block amps..They are awesome
#39
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You could minipulate the RCA's to do a right and left channle for you. Use only the right RCA and then do a female to 2 male Y-splitter and that amp would only get the right channle. Do the same with the left RCA and you have a mono amp for each channle.
I am not sure that I really understand the point of this but it could be done. I guess if you really needed alot of power and an efficiant amp but still wanted stereo.
I am not sure that I really understand the point of this but it could be done. I guess if you really needed alot of power and an efficiant amp but still wanted stereo.
#40
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Originally Posted by mesatrin
You could minipulate the RCA's to do a right and left channle for you. Use only the right RCA and then do a female to 2 male Y-splitter and that amp would only get the right channle. Do the same with the left RCA and you have a mono amp for each channle.
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