wbrault

I just had an amp and 1 10" inch sub put in, pics to come.

1. Rockford Fosgate Punch P3002 Amplifier
2. Rockford Fosgate Punch Stage 1 10" 4-ohm Component Subwoofer

It actually sounds really good, better then I thought it would have. I think I might add one more. I am happy the way it is now though. I also replaced the 6x9's in the rear deck, and the 6 1/2's in the doors with rockford fosgate something, I can't remember right now what the model is.

Anyone have any expierience with rockford?

wbrault

greenwidowcustoms

how hard was it to get the door panels off of the cobalt.

wbrault

It was easy, seems like everything in the car just pops out(with a little bit of a tug).

The hardest part about the door is the "jesus christ" clip around the window knob thing?

there are two screws on the outer side of the door, one behind the door handle and one in the hole on the door armrest. they are covered by a piece of plastic that pops out.

greenwidowcustoms

what did you hook your remote wire to from your amp.- did you leave your stock deck in? I'm doing my system this weekend and kindof wanted to know what i was getting myself into. I want to leave stock deck in to defer theft which is bad in my area of town. Thanks for your help

wbrault

I am not a pro at this stuff. But to answer your question, I did not leave my factory stereo in... I bought an aftermarket and had everything installed buy a pro/a shop in my town. I do know that of course they used the amp turn on wire that is on the aftermarket radio. How you would do this with the factory deck, I really have no idea.

greenwidowcustoms

I was thinking I would find a empty fuse in the fuse box that only powers up when the car is turned on and run the remote wire to that. In theory it should work! hahaha

wbrault

That sounds like it could be an idea.

Now that you bring up the fuse block. I know you said you want to keep the factory stereo but if you want to use an after market stereo. You will need to run the power from the head unit to the fuse block. I am not sure if you were aware this, but there is no constant power in the factory harness. Hence the reason why you need to run it down to the fuse block.

I hope I make sense lol. Basically you have to run the power wire(red) from the aftermarket radio to the fuse block to get your power.

Again, I know you said you want to keep the factory stereo.. so you wouldn't have to worry about that. Just have to figure out how to get turn on power to your amp.


wbrault
hope im helping

tiny

the thing you need is called a line out converter
you tap into the factory speaker output wires, and attach the remote wire to a wire thats controlled by ignition

then ur good to go!!
got mine workin

greenwidowcustoms

I'm also going to put a fm modulator in so I can play my IPOD throught the radio. Does anybody know if unhooking the antenna wire will cause the radio to lock up?

wbrault

I have the BASE model of the cobalt, generic stereo. I had the whole stereo unplogged(harness & antenna out). And the car was turned on, I actually had to go somewhere qucik and drove the car with it out. Everything still worked normally door chimes, display info. etc

BJC

The radios (not the base one though, I think) read part of the serial number from the computer and only lock-up if you put it back in a different car.