New front speakers questions
#1
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New front speakers questions
I have an 08 Sport with Premium Pioneer speakers and pioneer avh-p4200 touchscreen dvd player...
Back story, i had an issue when it rained / washed my car with water getting in the front passenger speaker. since then, i bought speaker baffles for the fronts and problem solved.
i think the stock speakers are paper, and just get distorted sometimes. the front passenger still has issues from time to time.between it not sitting flush because of the baffle and the water damage. it almost sounds like a blow out.... i get the weird popping sound. it only really happens in the mornings, then it goes away later
anyways.. i just went to Best buy to look for new 6.5" fronts, and most come with tweeters. my question is should i buy a regular 2 way speaker to replace bottoms, or should i get the ones with tweeters?
if i get the tweeter one, will everything hook up to stock? (for the bottom-mids, i know i have to remove the plastic adapter and and just use bare wire to new speakers)
Back story, i had an issue when it rained / washed my car with water getting in the front passenger speaker. since then, i bought speaker baffles for the fronts and problem solved.
i think the stock speakers are paper, and just get distorted sometimes. the front passenger still has issues from time to time.between it not sitting flush because of the baffle and the water damage. it almost sounds like a blow out.... i get the weird popping sound. it only really happens in the mornings, then it goes away later
anyways.. i just went to Best buy to look for new 6.5" fronts, and most come with tweeters. my question is should i buy a regular 2 way speaker to replace bottoms, or should i get the ones with tweeters?
if i get the tweeter one, will everything hook up to stock? (for the bottom-mids, i know i have to remove the plastic adapter and and just use bare wire to new speakers)
#4
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I literally just put in some new composite door speakers, and replaced my rear 6x9's today... Basically, the little mount that the stock speaker came in didn't line up with my new speaker, I had to really jam just two screws in to attach it, but it really wasn't a big deal..
the tweeter on the other hand was a bit more of a hassle, my buddy had to make an on-the-spot bracket to get the thing to stay in. it was a bit of a hassle, but honestly, it was WELL worth it. my music sounds so much better now, it's unreal.
the tweeter on the other hand was a bit more of a hassle, my buddy had to make an on-the-spot bracket to get the thing to stay in. it was a bit of a hassle, but honestly, it was WELL worth it. my music sounds so much better now, it's unreal.
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which speakers did you get? i know that some tweeter packages come with cross overs??? the small box, looks like a ballast? did your's come with that or when you say you used stock, you attached everything to the stock wiring?
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Emp, what do you think of the Infinity reference speakers? i've been searching for 2 ohm speakers on amazon and Infinity's look like the only ones. when i typed in 2 ohm Pioneers like you suggested, i read the specs about them and pioneer always ends up being 4 phm.
i am thinking of doing front and backs now..plus i have a gift card to Amazon, so i was probably gonna order form there.
also, what do you think about rear speaker baffles? i basically have my entire car sound deadened with eDead 80, and i saw somewhere that the pressure in the trunk from my STOCK sub could cause the rear speakers to wear quicker from the pressure.
btw the stock sub hits and sounds SOOO much better with a new head unit and the sound deadener, its better than my friend that has a 12" punch
i am thinking of doing front and backs now..plus i have a gift card to Amazon, so i was probably gonna order form there.
also, what do you think about rear speaker baffles? i basically have my entire car sound deadened with eDead 80, and i saw somewhere that the pressure in the trunk from my STOCK sub could cause the rear speakers to wear quicker from the pressure.
btw the stock sub hits and sounds SOOO much better with a new head unit and the sound deadener, its better than my friend that has a 12" punch
Last edited by kevinj4891; 04-18-2011 at 12:41 PM.
#10
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so i just bought some Infinity reference component set. i had an amazon gift card and the picture / description only showed 6.5"'s... i got the box and they have 6.5 and tweeters with cross overs...
should i just replace the bottom 6.5's and be on my way or should i swap out tweeters too? i'm guessing i would use the same factory wiring for tweeters and find a way to mount them?
never seen a how to with tweeters
btw speakers are Infinity Reference 6020cs that are 2 ohm...
6-1/2" Plus One+ Injection-Molded Polypropylene (IMPP) woofer with hi-roll rubber surround
1" edge-driven textile dome tweeter
Starfish™ mounting brackets for easier tweeter installation in factory locations
2-way external crossover network (18 dB/octave, 3,500 Hz high- and low-pass)
2-ohm impedance for extra power (compatible with virtually all factory or aftermarket car stereos)
tweeter adjustment circuits (0, -3 dB)
power range: 2-90 watts RMS (270 watts peak power)
frequency response: 53-21,000 Hz
sensitivity: 93 dB
top-mount depth: 2"
should i just replace the bottom 6.5's and be on my way or should i swap out tweeters too? i'm guessing i would use the same factory wiring for tweeters and find a way to mount them?
never seen a how to with tweeters
btw speakers are Infinity Reference 6020cs that are 2 ohm...
6-1/2" Plus One+ Injection-Molded Polypropylene (IMPP) woofer with hi-roll rubber surround
1" edge-driven textile dome tweeter
Starfish™ mounting brackets for easier tweeter installation in factory locations
2-way external crossover network (18 dB/octave, 3,500 Hz high- and low-pass)
2-ohm impedance for extra power (compatible with virtually all factory or aftermarket car stereos)
tweeter adjustment circuits (0, -3 dB)
power range: 2-90 watts RMS (270 watts peak power)
frequency response: 53-21,000 Hz
sensitivity: 93 dB
top-mount depth: 2"
#12
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if it were me id use the tweeters BUT mounting them especially in the stock location might be a challenge. If you do decide to do it just yank the panel think it thru and sorta figure it out with what tools and stuff you have available. theres alot of ways to **** it up but generally its not that hard and there more then one way to properly do them. If you end p doing it you want to use the woofer wiring and run your own wiring to the tweeters (included with the set you have) leave the stock tweeter wiring alone if your disconnecting the stock tweeters
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if it were me id use the tweeters BUT mounting them especially in the stock location might be a challenge. If you do decide to do it just yank the panel think it thru and sorta figure it out with what tools and stuff you have available. theres alot of ways to **** it up but generally its not that hard and there more then one way to properly do them. If you end p doing it you want to use the woofer wiring and run your own wiring to the tweeters (included with the set you have) leave the stock tweeter wiring alone if your disconnecting the stock tweeters
if i was to run the new wires and x-over's, where would i mount the boxes? i've had water issues before, now i have baffles over the speakers...plus my entire door has sound deadener on/in it.
i wasn just thinking of using strictly the new 6.5's and possibly sell the tweeters
or
use the new tweeters in the stock location using the stock wiring (with the new 6.5's)
#14
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you have to run the tweets through that x-over....there should be a tweeter spot. if there isn't then you have to use in-line "bass blocker" capacitors....don't worry about the baffles to be honest. If you bought aftermarket speakers they most likely have a polypropylene cone and a nice surround thats water proof pretty much, opposed to the paper **** you get stock...
#15
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right. the stock tweeters are ran active if i remember correctly (meaning no inline cap) but the main reason to not use it regardless is because the infinity setup is meant to be ran all together. If you just do the woofers thats all fine and dandy but if you do the tweeters its best to use the crossover it comes with so it uses the "right" slope freq ect. if you use the gm crossover then it might be to high or too low making it sound shitty or blowing the tweeter
#16
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Yea, who knows what the **** GM set the crossovers/slope db/oct to....they tune their active crossovers on their amps specifically for their premium systems' components....
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