AWDsedanKit

Audiobahn... haha. I have an audiobahn amp, and to be honest, it was a great intorductory line multi-channel, the A6004T. 150$ on sale BNIB. It has great options, decent sound, but it IS overrated on spec. vs. reality. I have also only heard of Audiobahn speakers distorting at higher volumes, but being on par in mid to lower volume usage. So, if you just want blant, not abusive power bump, I guess you could cheap it with Audiobahn.

As far as the rating being 400 watts RMS, you can definitely atleast push 600 into that sub CLEANLY. What is the subs peak power? If it is over 600, then you should be fine.
Why?
Music is not played in Sine waves. We use sine waves to tune our amps so that we know exactly where we reach the amps particular limits before pushing the amp into a zone known as clipping, a very bad thing to do. Basically, clipping is forcing an amp to amplifier a squared wave, which increases the amps output dramatically, and also send near 2X the power to your driver in an ugly, cluttered mess of waves. These extra waves cause are the 'extra' tone we can hear when we push an amp into distortion during a sine wave, but is only heard as distortion during music.
So, music is played and referred to as dynamic. Dynamic meaning that the signal being playes is not a constant, but because the music varies in tones and recording, sometimes we will only hear 300 RMS out of a 600 watt RMS amp being played through a sub because of music recording levels, although safely, we can say a sub on a 600 RMS channel can see up to an average of 500 RMS at FULL TILT. The reason why you can put a 600 watt RMS into a 400 watt sub, is that tuned correctly, you can play the sub cleanly to probably atleast 500 watts RMS before pushing mechanical limits during heavy bass songs. I would suggest this ONLY if you understand a speakers limits, why they blow, and how to fine tune systems.

As for suggestions, especially around the $100 mark; A Phoenix Gold Xenon or Rsd line will blow that Audiobahn out of the water regarding SQ and clean output ANY day, and cost as much. Heck, an audio tech sent a 2,000 watt RMS sine wave into an Rsd sub for 20 minutes and the thing heated up but would not blow. People are handing the Rsd up to 1200 watts RMS and daily driving, all out of a sub that costs less than 130$ shipped.

~Levi

The_Blur

I've only heard good things about Audiobahn amps, but their subs have mixed reviews. I still love my Alpine Type E's!

tricky1

I know all about tuning the amp for the sub and why subs blow(Distortion aka clipping). I haven't done it recently because I don't have access to a mutimeter, but I usually tune the output voltage of the amp to be optimum to the sub. If I'm in a hurry I gain it to where it sounds clean(no more than 1/2 to 3/4 gain).

I've yet to go figure out why my amp is blowing fuses.

AWDsedanKit

Checked your power line for pinches? (don't know how you have it run)
Checked to make sure no strands are touching a ground pount on the amp?

And that's about all I can think of, besides the amp just being bad.

Good luck,

~Levi

tricky1

I just checked it all, there are no power line pinches, ground is fine, and there are no strands going between power and gound. and theres a smell of burnt PCB in the trunk. I do have a 4 year replacement plan with Circuit City on the amp. I may just have to call them up on it.

1sty

If you pop a fues in and even before you turn it on the fuse blows, then you have a wiring problem. I have seen this when the + and ground are swapped.

The power wire is liekly fine as the fuse under the hood for the amp wire(you had damn well beter have one) would blow if the power wire was crossed.

Other then that the fuse on the amp is usualy for the speaker wires. Disconnect them then insert the fuse. if it still blows then the amp is likely FUBR.


Jl underates there amps by a decent margin. This is why their CEA2006 ratings are usualy alot higher then their own ratings. The JL 500/1 for example is near a 750 watt rms amp, not a 500. Although the RIPS circuit should keep it near 500 watts at all loads, it really doesn't. Real world power will be closure to the 750 at 2 ohms so that is what you should run for a load.

i have owned and used the Jl 300/2 (2 of them) Jl 300/4 (only one I still have) and a Jl 1000/1. All where flawless and incredible perfomers. Even the ones I sold are still going strong. I sold the e/a series but never owned them. The 6450 is sadistic. You can run it as a 3 channel at 220 watts x2 for the fronts and near 450 watts rms for the sub. The 5/6 channels bridge for alot more power into the sub audio range. If i can fit it in my truck, I might use it over my 300/4

Fuses on amps are usualy for the speaker wires, disconnect them from the amp and see what happens. If the fuse pops then, replace the amp.

tricky1

Yep, my friend just came over, I pulled the remote and put two brand new fuses in, hooked the remote back up...Now it starts to goto power but then jumps back to protection mode but doesn't blow the fuses. IT'll keep trying to goto power but keeps defaulting to protection. So can you confirm my fear that my amp has taken a dump on me?

1sty

dont pull the remote disconnect the SPEAKER wires from the amp.

tricky1

yep even with no speaker hookup it still does the same thing.

AWDsedanKit

If all you have connected is the power and ground, and it does that, and you have the ground and power hooked up correctly...she's dead

tricky1

Yep I've decided she fried...how I have no Idea. I'm gonna go look around locally tomorrow and see what else there is...I may be able to borrow something from a friend so I don't go insane.

TCarter

tricky1

Tim, loan me $439 bucks so I can get a 500/1.

diablo2007

here ya go pretty cheap jl audio 500/1
heres another one youd like it ma audio

tricky1

Well, that MA looks like a winner!

diablo2007

so far im happy with both of mine, but i think im going to half to down grade 4400 is alot of power for one 12

oh did you get that design?

tricky1

Yep, I'm thinking about getting a stereo amp to push my rear infinitys too.

And yeah I got that design!

Would this one be too much?
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-MA-Audio-800...QQcmdZViewItem

HViper

Anybody got any opinions on the Fosgate power series T5001BD. I just bought one to push a Fosgate Power series 12" T112D2. The power on this amp is incredable. Cant wait to install it, but dynamatting my whole trunk first. I have had good luck with fosgate in the past, just kinda wondering what other people thought of them?

Badmunky

I have. And to me there like flushing $$$$ done the drain!!!!!!!!

Biggest flashy POS subs I have ever had.
They distort easy, blow even easier, look like crap, sound like crap if your going for sound Q not just stupid loud, and they are over rated for there power handling. What ever they are rated at, cut that to 30% and thats about what they can actualy take if you put a good amp to them.



To the thread starter that looks nice man.

Later

1sty

If you are going to shop online, then don't bother with Jl. its not worth throwing away the warrenty. Go with a different brand that is more supportive of online sales. JL is about the worst.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

how about rockford... they are pretty strict too

06_ion2

you get what you pay for... you could also go for some kickers for about half the price that's why i ended up with 06 L7's and a kx1200.1 payed about 800 for it all even with a tuned ported box.. it was worth all the money i spent also.. don't get audiobahn there way more for looks than performance. they sound good for a mild setup but i would never get one. i would choose Rockford any day for a decent setup if i was on a budget..

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

lol id choose rf over jl or kicker at any price

impulseballer

I was thinking about these subs b/c their specs look decent and the price is pretty good
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-BLAUPUNKT-VELO...QQcmdZViewItem
Details:

» 10" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils
» woven carbon fiber/fiberglass hybrid cone with rubber surround
» cast aluminum basket
» grille included
» frequency response: 20-200 Hz
» power range: 500-1,000 watts RMS
» peak power handling: 2,000 watts
» sensitivity: 87 dB
» top-mount depth: 5-3/4"
» sealed box volume: 0.4 - 0.8 cubic feet
» ported box volume: 0.6 - 1.4 cubic feet
» Recommended Q-Logic Box Type: 1, 2
» warranty: 1 year


-or these JBL's
Details:

» 10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils
» Kevlar-impregnated paper cone with Hi-roll rubber surround
» Plus One cone design for more effective surface area
» power range: 50-400 RMS watts (200 watts per coil)
» 1200 watts peak power handling
» frequency response: 25-500 Hz
» sensitivity: 92 dB
» mounting depth: 6-13/16"
» sealed box volume: 0.75 cu. ft.
» ported box volume: 1.25 cu. ft.
» Recommended Q-Logic Box Type: 1, 3
» warranty: 1 year


What do you guys think about these?

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

id take the jbl... paper will sound better and rms rating should be a single number not a range (im calling bs on that one)