impulseballer

yeah i know the range is odd but I took those numbers from crutchfield website which i shouldn't have done...here's the #'s straight from blaupunkt's site...
Size 10“
Type Single 2 Ohm DVC
Power Continuous (W rms) 1000
Power Peak (W max) 2000
Sensitivity (dB 2.83V / 1m) 90
Frequency Response (Hz) 20 – 200
Magnet Weight (oz) 80.0
Cone Material Woven Fiber
Surround Material Rubber
Mounting Depth (in. / mm) 5.75“ (146.0)

here's the one from JBL's
Sensitivity 92dB
Power Handling, RMS 400W
Power Handling, Peak 1,200W
Impedance Dual 4 Ohms voice coils can be wired to deliver either a 2 ohm or 8 ohm load
Mounting Depth 5-7/8"
Cut-Out Diameter 9-1/16"

-i like the blaupunkts

iLLmaTic3s

JBL man. at work when i did a guy who owned a LT and he had the pionner setup and 1 ten inch JBL sub..holy bump. i had to dynomat the whole trunk. that **** was rattlin like a bitch

impulseballer

yeah i know my uncle love's JBL subs. My 12's right now are rattling the **** out of my trunk..i'm gonna have to dynomat the top of the trunk soon.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

how much power are you looking at?

impulseballer

aka what am I looking at to get rms wise out of my subs? I'm not sure of the final number I dont need bragging rights. I just want these subs to pound hard and clean but not put such a large dent in my pockets.

1sty

Here is the reason for the range.
The Speaker is 92 db SPL@1 meter. Since everytime we double the power we gain 3 db, at 40 watts the speaker will be around 108dbSPL @1 meter. This is for outside measurements so this does not take into account cabin gain or tranfer funstions, all that sillyness.

So the lower rating is the minimum of the subs ability to use power to achieve a decent level and some control while being to make up for a few factors. The 400 can be either the mechanical failure limit or the point at which the speaker is at its maximum SPL. This is where the good manufacturers will spec the SPL limit and the crappy will go for the mechanical failure point do to cooking the voice coil. So if you were to run a sine wave at this power level for 4 hours, a certain number of this sub will fail. All manufactures are different so you'd have to contact them for their individual measuring habits.
By the 400 watts, I am guessing that the JBL is the maximum SPL point and bluapunk is at the failure limit. For the JBL, we can double the power until we hit 400 watts which would mean our max SPL is 118db, which is about right for a 10" subwoofer. So after 400 watts, the drivers is moving all of the air it is capable of and no more power is going to make it any louder.

Now, we need to add in head room. That is the ability of the amplifer to have some power in reserve without clipping incase of an increase in signal level. Headroom also allows the amp to play cleaner, cooler. Otherwise is it perfomaning at max all the time. This is alot like driving your car at redline (over exageration). I like to have at least 20% more power in reserve then the speakers can actualy use. So for this sub, a roughly 500 watt rms amplifier is what I would be looking at.

Once we have the power we want, we have to be concerned with how the amplifier manufacturer is rating there amplifer. You will want to see something like:

500 watt rms into 4 @ 14 volts DC with <1% THD, 20hz-500hz.
(Measured power) into (reistance/impedance) @ (applied Voltage) with (THD), (over what Frequency rang)

Miss any part of that and the manufacture is F-ing with you.

Take a look at the raings for the JL A1400.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=399
Notice that EVERYTHING is listed out. There is no place to hide numbers.

Now take a look at audiobhans ratings. They individualy list THD, Fq response, and power levels completely seperate of one another and they NEVER give you the applied voltage on the web, you have to di into the manual for that. The best you will get is:
(Measured power) into (reistance/impedance) @ (applied Voltage)


Short answer is all speakers have a power range. There is no magical number that it should be powered at and even if there were, you should always have the power in place for overhead. Also, a very little amount of power can go a long way.


That said, I am calling BS on the Blua's frequency response. No way that thing is at +/-3% at 20 Hz, no fing way. Not in a real world box anyways. Perhaps running completely free air. Any box building software will point out the BS in that one. JBL has a very realisc rating. It will likely play below 50hz rather well, its just not within +/- 3%.

tricky1

Ok I have a local dealer here that sells these amps. The brand is TMA(Total Mobile Audio). TMA is owned by JL. So that said what do you think of this amp?

http://tma.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=421

impulseballer

there's no THD or RMS #'s

1sty

Per Martech-group.com
Total Mobile Audio

Recently acquired by JL Audio, Total Mobile Audio is a value packed, reliable,
over-built product line that addresses the entry-level consumer. Dan McLeod, formerly with Rockford Fosgate, created TMA out of the need of the independent mobile audio specialist to be able to compete profitably at the lower priced segment of the market. To accomplish this goal he utilized his many years of negotiations and relationships with prime offshore vendors to produce a limited line of products with unheard of profit potential, beefed up reliability, very competitive cosmetics and limited distribution. TMA will only be sold through the finest independent specialists, utilizing a limited distribution and high, achievable profit strategy.


I would stay away from this one for a year or two. Give it some time to develope, although it supposedly has been for almost 2 years.
In looking at them and knowing that now JL can't dump their refurbs onto their dealers employees, they might be rebadging old parts. This is total speculation of coarse, but everything just looks to much like JL stuff to have been completely developed by Dan Mcleod.

AWDsedanKit

Guys looked into Phoenixgold? You should. Also, there are a few other nice cheaper names out there, such as Planet Audio to name another.

Hell, my rear trunk has a Xenon X10d2 pushing 600 watts RMS, and a Xenon 600.1 thats rated 821 watts 2 4 ohms at just 1% THD, for 200 bucks plus shipping.(used) Thing hammers out a nice clean signal.

Their new stuff is called a Radial SD, or Rsd line. Good stuff, but I'm not a fan of their amps.

Also, if your gonna buy RF, you might as well buy the better Best Buy product; Alpine. Strong, dependable, and clean for relaitvely the same price.

~Levi

cashstacker

Audiobahns do catch on fire and they are over rated. I had two 12's that were supposed to be 400 rms 800 max that caught on fire from a boss 1200 watt amp. (I know that's a pretty shitty system but it was in my first car)

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

why would he leave rockford? lol because they already have lightning audio or what?

impulseballer

im gonna go with two blaupunkt 10's and the hifonics Brutus BXi1606D amp

AWDsedanKit

Heads up, I bought a set of Blaupunkts a year ago (6.5" Tc series drivers) and I recieved them with one speaker that had a bad Voice coil, and another that went out shortly after. Before the second one went, I did like the punch they had.

I don't know about their subs, the incident could be unrelated. I just wanted to let you know.

~Levi

impulseballer

thanks but i'm gonna giv them a shot

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

let us know how it sounds

impulseballer

def will do