New System FTW
03-02-2011, 10:19 AM
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New System FTW
Ok, so (forgive me that I am not a speed demon) but I have finally sold my system that was around 800 rms and will be breaking into the 2k rms range.
My old set up: 2 Alpine Type R 12's (DVC 4 500 rms) and a MA Audio HK602 (1200 rms x 1 @ 1ohm) in a single vented box tuned to around 47hz
New Set Up: 2 SPL SP3's (DVC 2 ohm 1000 rms) and a Power Acoustiks BAMF 5500/1D (2300 RMS @ 2 ohm) in a dual slot ported box (individual chambers) tuned to 44 hz.
Old Set up hit 134.6 at 600 rms so i wonder what doubling the RMS will be hitting.....
My old set up: 2 Alpine Type R 12's (DVC 4 500 rms) and a MA Audio HK602 (1200 rms x 1 @ 1ohm) in a single vented box tuned to around 47hz
New Set Up: 2 SPL SP3's (DVC 2 ohm 1000 rms) and a Power Acoustiks BAMF 5500/1D (2300 RMS @ 2 ohm) in a dual slot ported box (individual chambers) tuned to 44 hz.
Old Set up hit 134.6 at 600 rms so i wonder what doubling the RMS will be hitting.....
03-02-2011, 11:15 PM
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Well...... when it comes time to part ways with the SS (when a 3rd child is spawned) I will get the wife the full size SUV Im going to wall off my Dodge Nitro with 4 of this sum'muh muh b*tches with a box tuned somewhere in the 25range since the Amp is 4000 RMS @ 1 ohm @ 14.4v
Last edited by BlackWidowSS07; 03-05-2011 at 02:27 AM.
03-03-2011, 12:56 PM
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Yeah I know, but magnet size is not everything. Look at the magnet on the Boston Oval. Its no where NEAR the weight or size of that of the orion hcca (for example) and hits harder pound for pound than two hcca's rated at the same power. So I know that for a fact the magnet size is irrelevant. My friend has 2 in his demo vehicle being pushed by some rockford 1k rms amp each (cant remember the exact model) and not even at full power hit 148dB and crushed the local stereo shops demo vehicle with 2 hcca's.
More so depends on these factors: RMS @ Ohm Level, Face circumfrance of the sub (total), Enlosure and airspace of the vehcile (car vs suv), and voltage produced at a sustained level (amperage)
More so depends on these factors: RMS @ Ohm Level, Face circumfrance of the sub (total), Enlosure and airspace of the vehcile (car vs suv), and voltage produced at a sustained level (amperage)
03-03-2011, 08:29 PM
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yea, thats the tip of the iceberg though....local comps yea, doing it big? they do crazy **** like filling all of your steel body hollow spots with concrete, adding bulletproofglass all round, and having to add removable rivets to your door, all to 100% reduce panel flex, air loss, etc... and yea...magnet size does mean something, but very little.. not the way people play it out to be...
but....i do agree with JJ on the brand thing...i foresee some coils going white hot. good **** ain't cheap and cheap **** ain't good.
those jackhammers aren't amazing because they're loud, they're amazing because of the lows they can hit and how much air they move....the pricetag is lulzy though.
but....i do agree with JJ on the brand thing...i foresee some coils going white hot. good **** ain't cheap and cheap **** ain't good.
those jackhammers aren't amazing because they're loud, they're amazing because of the lows they can hit and how much air they move....the pricetag is lulzy though.
Last edited by c4w18; 03-03-2011 at 08:39 PM.
03-03-2011, 09:18 PM
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Try 2 of the new Rockford fosgate t1 12's. They are rated 800rms a piece but can easily handle 2000 together. I just bought 2 with a rockford t1500-1bdcp amp that's pushin 1915 rms. They hit super hard and the new model has great quality. They for sure will kick the shut outta the type r's. I had p3's before these and those even kicked the **** outta type r's. Hit 144.5 DB with the p3's.
Edit: just relized you already upgraded and aren't looking for suggestions lol. Congrats on a new system, it always feels good when you get a louder one haha. Get it tested and post up what it hits.
Edit: just relized you already upgraded and aren't looking for suggestions lol. Congrats on a new system, it always feels good when you get a louder one haha. Get it tested and post up what it hits.
Last edited by Jaredssbalt; 03-03-2011 at 09:25 PM.
03-03-2011, 11:16 PM
#11
Yeah I know, but magnet size is not everything. Look at the magnet on the Boston Oval. Its no where NEAR the weight or size of that of the orion hcca (for example) and hits harder pound for pound than two hcca's rated at the same power. So I know that for a fact the magnet size is irrelevant. My friend has 2 in his demo vehicle being pushed by some rockford 1k rms amp each (cant remember the exact model) and not even at full power hit 148dB and crushed the local stereo shops demo vehicle with 2 hcca's.
More so depends on these factors: RMS @ Ohm Level, Face circumfrance of the sub (total), Enlosure and airspace of the vehcile (car vs suv), and voltage produced at a sustained level (amperage)
More so depends on these factors: RMS @ Ohm Level, Face circumfrance of the sub (total), Enlosure and airspace of the vehcile (car vs suv), and voltage produced at a sustained level (amperage)
My main point was the subs you bought are cheaper price wise and have a smaller magnet then the ones you sold. breaking it down step by step cheaper means that there cant be any hidden special things about the sub. It wont have a flatwind copper coil, it wont have an aluminium former, it wont have specially designed spiders for more output, it wont have neo magnets. for that price all it is is a regular sub that some guy in china got some parts and said tada done. smaller magnet means that if its a regular ass sub without anything special then how is it going to handle double the power of the alpine type r? i honestly cant say it better then c4w18: "good **** ain't cheap and cheap **** ain't good"
you are right in the fact that you can get louder with a shittier sub. ive seen it all the time just because you have a good sub doesn't mean your going to get loud. you need a good setup in a good vehicle.
03-04-2011, 12:00 AM
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JJ brought up some excellent points there....thats the main difference between a well made sub and a lower quality sub...yes, sometimes you can get a bargain bin sub to sound just as loud as a high qual one, but the difference is all in the materials....
low qual sub: 1-3 progressive spiders, ferrite magnet, weak coil cooling system w/ no heat sink and or little to no vents, no flat wound coil.
basically, this sub is more prone to the spiders tearing if excursion goes the SLIGHTEST bit over its limit, the magnet doesn't have as much gauss, and the coil is more prone to heating up, burning up and/or slinking off because it doesn't have high emissitivity materials.
but hey, this sub can still pound, its how much it can take for how long. Subs like these leave very little room for error and are very finnicky.
low qual sub: 1-3 progressive spiders, ferrite magnet, weak coil cooling system w/ no heat sink and or little to no vents, no flat wound coil.
basically, this sub is more prone to the spiders tearing if excursion goes the SLIGHTEST bit over its limit, the magnet doesn't have as much gauss, and the coil is more prone to heating up, burning up and/or slinking off because it doesn't have high emissitivity materials.
but hey, this sub can still pound, its how much it can take for how long. Subs like these leave very little room for error and are very finnicky.
03-05-2011, 02:16 AM
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yup i agree with you on the boston dealio except the fact that boston utilizes neo magnets hence why they are so small. you cant compare the physical size of a neo vs the physical size of a ferrite. and even then you are alos correct in saying that comparing magnet size isnt a good way of telling the overal spl output of a subwoofer.
My main point was the subs you bought are cheaper price wise and have a smaller magnet then the ones you sold. breaking it down step by step cheaper means that there cant be any hidden special things about the sub. It wont have a flatwind copper coil, it wont have an aluminium former, it wont have specially designed spiders for more output, it wont have neo magnets. for that price all it is is a regular sub that some guy in china got some parts and said tada done. smaller magnet means that if its a regular ass sub without anything special then how is it going to handle double the power of the alpine type r? i honestly cant say it better then c4w18: "good **** ain't cheap and cheap **** ain't good"
you are right in the fact that you can get louder with a shittier sub. ive seen it all the time just because you have a good sub doesn't mean your going to get loud. you need a good setup in a good vehicle.
My main point was the subs you bought are cheaper price wise and have a smaller magnet then the ones you sold. breaking it down step by step cheaper means that there cant be any hidden special things about the sub. It wont have a flatwind copper coil, it wont have an aluminium former, it wont have specially designed spiders for more output, it wont have neo magnets. for that price all it is is a regular sub that some guy in china got some parts and said tada done. smaller magnet means that if its a regular ass sub without anything special then how is it going to handle double the power of the alpine type r? i honestly cant say it better then c4w18: "good **** ain't cheap and cheap **** ain't good"
you are right in the fact that you can get louder with a shittier sub. ive seen it all the time just because you have a good sub doesn't mean your going to get loud. you need a good setup in a good vehicle.
You know your stuff Emperor, throwing the type of magnet on the oval +1 for knowledge in my book.
And I totally agree about Good isn't Cheap and Cheap isn't good, so +1 to C4 for over all good logic.
Brick, the 4k @ 1ohm from the amp IS POSSIBLE, but I honestly / highly doubt it at 14.4v, realistically probably around 16v would be more feasible. Also do you have any piics of your sett up Id love to see some
The amp is a beast and has ran multiple set ups of 4 12's and 4 15's with proper voltage (youtube power acoustik 5500/1d and look at what it has powered) but in hind sit i I blow up these 2 12's for going against the logic I know and understand, hey, $75 a pop .... ehh my own stupidity I guess, lll go buy the Oval or something.
Here is some food for thought. Saw a guy go to Walmart and bought 4 of the Sony explodes (personally I think most of explode line is garbage) built a box, cant remember the name of the amp, and ran a 154.6 on the termlab. I know any people say if it comes from Walmat it aint going in my car, but hey that dude flewed all the windows like he had a wall of 15's.
C4, VA Beach huh? Im 4 hours away in Jville, NC. I as at Dam neck for a few months
Last edited by BlackWidowSS07; 03-05-2011 at 02:36 AM.
03-05-2011, 02:53 AM
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Yeah that's what sucks is that to have one you lose the other and cant really get a good balance. If I go for the straight SPL of 150dB + then Ill go the Fi BTL route.
I have my friend and his 2 Ovals to compete with. I told him I will do it for far less than what he paid. So far and not even at half of what he spent. But like I said, I blow em I blow em, then Ill go to Afghanistan, save some money and go from there lol.
Reaisticly I dont expect to equal the Ovals, but hope to be within a 3-5d range of him.
Its 3am here, I have insomnia, but I'm going to try and sleep
I have my friend and his 2 Ovals to compete with. I told him I will do it for far less than what he paid. So far and not even at half of what he spent. But like I said, I blow em I blow em, then Ill go to Afghanistan, save some money and go from there lol.
Reaisticly I dont expect to equal the Ovals, but hope to be within a 3-5d range of him.
Its 3am here, I have insomnia, but I'm going to try and sleep
03-05-2011, 01:07 PM
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Wow, i actually thought that I was going to get put on blast for this lol but its good to be able to have good debates about things and not a **** talk session.
You know your stuff Emperor, throwing the type of magnet on the oval +1 for knowledge in my book.
And I totally agree about Good isn't Cheap and Cheap isn't good, so +1 to C4 for over all good logic.
Brick, the 4k @ 1ohm from the amp IS POSSIBLE, but I honestly / highly doubt it at 14.4v, realistically probably around 16v would be more feasible. Also do you have any piics of your sett up Id love to see some
The amp is a beast and has ran multiple set ups of 4 12's and 4 15's with proper voltage (youtube power acoustik 5500/1d and look at what it has powered) but in hind sit i I blow up these 2 12's for going against the logic I know and understand, hey, $75 a pop .... ehh my own stupidity I guess, lll go buy the Oval or something.
Here is some food for thought. Saw a guy go to Walmart and bought 4 of the Sony explodes (personally I think most of explode line is garbage) built a box, cant remember the name of the amp, and ran a 154.6 on the termlab. I know any people say if it comes from Walmat it aint going in my car, but hey that dude flewed all the windows like he had a wall of 15's.
C4, VA Beach huh? Im 4 hours away in Jville, NC. I as at Dam neck for a few months
You know your stuff Emperor, throwing the type of magnet on the oval +1 for knowledge in my book.
And I totally agree about Good isn't Cheap and Cheap isn't good, so +1 to C4 for over all good logic.
Brick, the 4k @ 1ohm from the amp IS POSSIBLE, but I honestly / highly doubt it at 14.4v, realistically probably around 16v would be more feasible. Also do you have any piics of your sett up Id love to see some
The amp is a beast and has ran multiple set ups of 4 12's and 4 15's with proper voltage (youtube power acoustik 5500/1d and look at what it has powered) but in hind sit i I blow up these 2 12's for going against the logic I know and understand, hey, $75 a pop .... ehh my own stupidity I guess, lll go buy the Oval or something.
Here is some food for thought. Saw a guy go to Walmart and bought 4 of the Sony explodes (personally I think most of explode line is garbage) built a box, cant remember the name of the amp, and ran a 154.6 on the termlab. I know any people say if it comes from Walmat it aint going in my car, but hey that dude flewed all the windows like he had a wall of 15's.
C4, VA Beach huh? Im 4 hours away in Jville, NC. I as at Dam neck for a few months
and yea man didn't mean to put you on blast or anything, just trying to be helpful from my own experience. and hey, in the end it's everyone's own system, its how they like it to sound and perform and it shouldn't matter what anyone else thinks. its your car, your auditory experience.
03-06-2011, 12:10 AM
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haha nice man maybe we can meet up and talk systems. let me know.
and yea man didn't mean to put you on blast or anything, just trying to be helpful from my own experience. and hey, in the end it's everyone's own system, its how they like it to sound and perform and it shouldn't matter what anyone else thinks. its your car, your auditory experience.
and yea man didn't mean to put you on blast or anything, just trying to be helpful from my own experience. and hey, in the end it's everyone's own system, its how they like it to sound and perform and it shouldn't matter what anyone else thinks. its your car, your auditory experience.
03-07-2011, 04:29 AM
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03-07-2011, 09:47 AM
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https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/elec...0001bd-192322/
everythings the same now except i just added some more second skin.
03-08-2011, 02:08 AM
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https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/elec...0001bd-192322/
everythings the same now except i just added some more second skin.
everythings the same now except i just added some more second skin.
And the yellow tops... they are just for the system right? and tell me that not being ran off the stock alternator?
My concern is my amperage and killing my battery now. Maybe we can talk off line sometime Brick. PM and we can exchange numbers if you're willing. I need to learn more about the electrical stuff