HeXDeMoN

Please make suggestions and/or correct my newbness

-Pontiac G5 2008 Premium Pioneer PKG
-Main reason I want upgrade because I'm very unhappy with the bass, I dont think the stock sub works or at least I dont hear it.
-Ideally I would like to keep stock head unit at least for awhile
-I'm cheap :P dont want to spend more then $200 total ideally

Amps:

I know 0 about amp's/audio, could I get away with getting 2ohm speakers in the front but 4ohm speakers in the rear? If not can I get a cheap amp just for the rear speakers?

Fronts: *dont want to spend more then $100 ideally*

Infinity Reference 6030cs
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Refer.../dp/B002BS5YAA

Infinity Kappa 60.9CS *are these good enough by themselves so I wouldnt have to upgrade the rears?
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-609CS...1111855&sr=1-1

Rears: *dont want to spend more then $50-$60 ideally

Infinity 9622i
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Refer.../dp/B000MPDSCA

------------under line are 4ohms---------------------
Clarion SRQ6930R
http://www.amazon.com/Clarion-SRQ693.../dp/B001377UU2

Pioneer TSA6963R
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...X0DER&v=glance

I also own a pair of new Polk Audio DB651 speakers, was thinking of putting them in the rears with a adapter bracket. I know alot of people frown on using 6x5 in the rear but would it be better then stock? I'd rather use them then have them sitting around doing nothing

Subs:

Should I just forget changing speakers and work on a sub system since my only real complaint is not enough bass? Clarity/Treble is good already.

If just a sub would be good enough how about...
Infinity Basslink 200-Watt Powered Subwoofer System (Black)
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Bassl...7&sr=1-1-spell

Thanks in advanced, any input is welcome.

also just because I posted amazon links doesnt mean thats where I'm going to buy them , just did it so you can click and see spec's easier.

xSlowbalt09x

IMO... i think you should be all set with the stock setup. im assuming youve tried adjusting the EQ. things can get really crazy real quick, for a noob, when you start messing with the audio/electronics. i dont claim to be an expert but i have done a couple systems, for myself and a friend.

if your only complaint is the bass and you want subs...
then you will probably need a head unit because the stock head unit probably doesnt have an RCA output. i could be wrong because ive never pulled it or checked anywhere online.

assuming you need the head unit, next your going to need an amp with ample power matched with subs that can handle the power ratings. RMS is continual power and should be looked at much more closely than the peak power.

careful on what you do too... sometimes if you try to go too big on your bass and neglect your highs (speakers), you end up drowning out the highs out and everything begins to sound like crap.

i had a alpine cda9885 head unit powering a profile ap1200 amp 200W RMS at 4 ohms to my two 10 inch sub pioneers 250W RMS 4 ohms, along with a alpine mrpf550 90W RMS to all polk audio highs 4 highs in my cavalier. the bass was cranked to the max, and with no power to the highs... it was awful. full power to the rear speakers and 75% to the front and everything was beautiful.

it really is all in what you want and what makes you happy when your running around in your car, but it can get expensive quick.

JL-KA

iTrader: (4)

I got Kicker KS components and 6x9s with a Kicker cvx sub a week after buying the car and never looked back. It's hard to do much better than stock on a low budget unless you're buying used.
Might try this site:
http://woofersetc.com/
they have previous years models so it's cheaper but they're still new

HeXDeMoN

Yea I messed with EQ honestly when I put bass all the way low compared to all the way high it sounds exactly the same. I bought my car used , is there anyway to test if something is blown? Like my stock sub, any real way to test if its blown or not?

Actually I heard all you need is a line out converter if you have stock headunit. hook that up from your rear deck speakers to your sub amp and you're good to go.


I probably will go the sub route after all but someone on another forum did suggest putting my Polk DB651 *coaxial* that I already own , into my fronts then buy some 1inch tweeters/cross overs . I think I may also do that. My only issue I can think of, those speakers are 4ohm's so they will only be half as loud as my stocks right? Should I not listen to this other guy?

MP Cobalt

iTrader: (4)

I got a single Alpine Type-R and single box selling for $175 If your interested.

HeXDeMoN

What specific model?

http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SWR-124.../dp/B0009NXN7K
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...E7TN7V5B2EG6PR

?

Are you including a amp?

xSlowbalt09x

well if it is blown, i think the first giveaway would be the outlet hole.. if there is no air being pushed out of the hole in the sub enclosure when it hits, or should be hitting, i think thats a pretty good giveaway its blown. HOWEVER, the car is used. the guy before you may have disconnected something and threw it back together just to sell the car. take it apart and check it out.

hooking it up from your rear speakers to you sub amp? sounds really ghetto to me. plus the power supplied will be very minimal.

those polks are probably good for midrange and high sound. those tweeters/crossovers are your highs again tho. if you mean you just wanna replace the stock front with aftermarket speakers then i dont see why not. you wont get any more bass out of them. and unless you amp them then your really just replacing the material of the speaker, not the clarity of the sound.

the ohm impedence troubles me. there are some diagrams online to better explain that mess.

again, since i have no idea how the stock setup actually runs, i cannot truly give you advice on the speakers but i would assume the stock head unit is putting 4 ohm impedence out to each speaker. your speakers are rated for the power they can handle, not what they produce. the power is determined by your head unit and if you have one, your amplifier. hope that helps... btw if you plan on buying a sub, i have an amp for sale. that profile ap1200.

HeXDeMoN

Well the stock speakers all around are 2ohm and I know since I have premium sound package , there is a amp in my dash. I really wish I knew the specs of the stock headunit or the amp *it powers the speakers in car and the stock sub*

I'll take a look at the sub while playing music and if I dont feel nothing I'll take it off and look at it.

Also I bought my car gm certified used. 1 other owner a .. rent a car place. It was originally from las vegas also :P My car has been to more places then me


Also pm price for the amp.

MP Cobalt

iTrader: (4)

4 ohm sub.

HeXDeMoN

Potential sub setup #1

Scosche Se10 10-Inch Sealed Subwoofer Enclosure
http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Se10-1...ref=pd_sim_e_2

Alpine Type-R SWR-1042D sub
http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-Type-R-...1177297&sr=1-1

Still looking for a amp, I think ideally I want a 4 channel so I can run the 6x9 speakers off it *if/when I buy some new ones*

I can bridge 2 channels together for the sub and leave the other 2 separate for 2 speakers right?

Anyone suggest a 4 channel amp that can handle RMS 500W bridged?


Enclosure = $30
Sub = $100ish
amp = ???


MP Cobalt -

Do you know the model of the amp? size?ect.? If not I'd rather spend less money on a new one.


edit:

Oh yea I checked the stock sub it works, only way you can notice it is if you full blast the radio with bass all the way up also. Volume at half way and bass all the way up *how I been normaly listening to the radio* you cant notice it at all inside the car. Anyway to turn it up?

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

no way to turn it up

if your budget for sub and box is around 130 heres 2 much better options... whats ur budget for an amp. a 4 channel with ~500w on 2 of them is probably going to be expensive no matter how you look at it

Loaded Kicker L5 10
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-KICKER-08TS1...item5d27548bc3

Loaded kicker CVR 12"
http://cgi.ebay.com/Kicker-07VCVR124...item33533a0504


actually this amp would work well. talk to the seller see if he will wiggle with the price and keep the P2. 180 isnt a bad price but 50 bucks shipping is to be expected with the sub/box included

http://cgi.ebay.com/ROCKFORD-FOSGATE...item27addc4fe3

decent deal here too... kicker 850.4 $269 new

http://cgi.ebay.com/KICKER-ZX850-4-4...item5ad553628e

xSlowbalt09x

heres my for sale post. profile ap1200 amp and alpine mrpf550 amp:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/stuff-137/ct-alpine-amp-profile-amp-196208/

prices are shipped cost.


and heres two links that describe the amps:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRPF...ures_and_specs

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_489AP12...0&ssi=0&tp=115

again IMO i would have one amp for all your highs. and if you going to amp 2 speakers, why not do 4. the balance in the car will be way off if you amp 2 speakers and leave the others at stock power. the profile is rated to 600W RMS bridged to one channel.

HeXDeMoN

Alright I bought a used Rockford Fosgate p300-1 and my brother has a 10inch sub somewhere in his garage he never used. He has no idea what it is and it's probably not anything amazing but it will get me started :P

Anyone nice enough to make a list of everything I need now? *wires ect.ect."

Also suggest a brand of enclosures


Thanks in advanced

HeXDeMoN

Update:

Bought:
Rockford Fosgate p300-1 Punch Series Amp *to power the sub*
Infinity Kappa 60.9cs 6-1/2in Component Speaker System *fronts*
MTX XT693 6x9" 640 Watt 3-Way Car Audio Speakers *rears*

About to buy:
Rockford Fosgate P3SD210 10" Shallow Subwoofer *to put in stock sub enclosure*
Infintiy REF475A 4-Channel 4 X 75 Power Amplifier *to power front/rear speakers*

What does everyone think?

Gestapo007

iTrader: (2)

headunit or just lineout converter. i have stock pioneers with a small 12" Sony Explode and an 800 watt sony explode amp hooked up to a line out converter, and the sound is just perfect for me in my car. enough bass, but not too much to shake the **** and rattle everything like my old car, but enough to know i have a sub and make it sound nice. stock pioneers in the SS models seem to be great for highs and mids.

I didnt want to add alot of weight, wanted a sub that would leave me trunk space since its a daily and was small enough to easily be taken out of the trunk from the rear while still supplying good bass, but not so much that i would have to dynomat everything and anything that rattled and pissed me off and add alot more weight to the car. i think i found the perfect setup