ptrblkz24

JL 10w1v2.Sounds alot better than the stock sub,and the specs match the stock box perfectly.I had to use like a 1/2" mdf ring for magnet to clear the back of the box.

SS SCHGD

I'm kindof parcial to the RF's, as I had 2 RF Punch Power DVC's with about 1000 rms each in the old car. But I like the sound of the shallow in the cobalt. It works well for me. (If I wasn't going to run RF I'd be running a JBL though)

Tank07

i hope u guys are sure those subs have enough room........they need a certain amount of space to work at their best...

and why would u put another box on the other side facing the stock box.........you get the boom but the clean bass will cancel out

one more thing........dynamat ur trunks........it will make one hell of a difference and is worth the money.......clean hard hitting bass is where its out and if ur trunks rattling then its not clean lol

09turbo

yea i am just gonna get rid of the factory box i think. i would like to put something in it, it would be easy, but wont sound good enough for me. i gotta have clean low bass.

SS SCHGD

the air space in the factory box fits the needs of the new sub.

JSSpedale

Bringing this back from the dead because I have been debating upgrading the sub. I was thinking Alpine Type S shallow mount and Alpine X Power mono amp. I would want to run RCA's to the amp from the head unit. I am contemplating a Kenwood double din with Nav or leaving it stock. If I leave it stock is there an adapter so I can get RCA's from the headunit without having to splice into speaker wire? Does anybody know what size the stock box is?

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

idk if it will fit the alpine type s is shallower but not quite a shallow. as far as a line out put convertor u have to tap speaker wire somewhere. generally tapping the speaker wires going to the stock sub works well

toysareforboys

I wouldn't really call it "in" the factory box, but you get the idea


LICK FOR HIGH RES!

RE-Audio SE-X 10D4 (calls for .65 cu ft optimum enclosure, factory box is .6 so an almost perfect fit). When mounting a sub in the above way make sure to trim 1/4" off the edge of the hole in the stock box. File/sand the edges so they are smooth too.


LICK FOR SOME HIGH RES!

Makes for some SERIOUS thump

It's easiest to use the pair of subwoofer wires to get the audio feed. If your amp doesn't have speaker level inputs (My JL Audio one does) then you'd have to use a Line Output Converter.

Shallow mount subs suck BTW. Look at the Xmax ratings, you want something with at least 15mm for some nice lows

*EDIT: Wow, the Alpine Type R shallow mount has some pretty nice specs (15mm xmax, hehe)! Alpine SWR-T10 (SWRT10) 10" Single 4 ohm Shallow Type-R Subwoofer

The amp you're looking at (MRP-M500?) would only be feeding that sub with 300 watts (single 4 ohm voice coil). It would be better matched to go with a JL 500/1 (can get them used mint for $250 ish around me) because it'll feed that sub an even 500 watts even at 4 ohms . I wasn't able to find the SWR-T10 sub in a 2ohm version, or dual 4ohm, etc. so be careful when matching it to an amp (look at the 4ohm power rating, find something with at least 500 "real"/RMS watts and a regulated power supply). If you wanted to go "cheap" on the amp you can get this one for around $100 and it does about 550 watts RMS at 4ohm, a great mach for that Alpine sub!

-Jamie M.

JSSpedale

I am not into crazy loud bass, I listen to mostly rock music, OAR is my favorite band. I like nice crisp punchy bass. I was thinking the Kenwood Excelon KFC-XW1000F subwoofer, Alpine MRX-M50 amplifier which has speaker level inputs so need for the line out converter. I like how the battery is in the trunk so need to run wires up to the headunit! I am trying to keep it small compact and simple.

toysareforboys, Thanks for letting me know the box is .6 cu/ft I have been searching for that for a while now. On a side note I see your sig says you use the Purolator PurOne oil filter, I run the same filter and used to have to buy them on amazon, but recently I found the K-Mart sells them for $7!

Any thoughts or input on what I am thinking about doing would be appreciated

toysareforboys

xmax of only 7.5mm and RMS rating of 250 Kenwood eXcelon KFC-XW1000F (KFCXW1000F) 10" Shallow Mount Sub Not sure how much "punch" you're going to get out of that

That amp is a good match for the above speaker, 300rms @ 4 ohms. Speaker level inputs are a great feature for the Cobalt *NOTE: You will probably have to run a "Remote" wire from the fuse panel in the front of the car to the amp. The "signal sensing for automatic turn-on" did not work very well on my JL Audio amp, and when I called JL to troubleshoot they determined that the factory cobalt amp has a crossover running to the rear sub wires, and the JL amp listens for high frequencies for automatic turn on (why? on a subwoofer amp? retards! lol), so I had to crank my volume to absolute max for a few seconds to get the amp to turn on! I ran a wire from my "power window" fuse in the fusebox to the amp, and it works perfectly now . Keep that in mind if you were hoping to use the "auto turn on" feature


You mean no need to run wires up to the battery under the hood Yep, super awesome having the battery in the trunk! Keeps everything nice and clean too, no water in your fuse holders, etc. Don't forget an inline fuse holder to go with your setup, use 4ga power and ground cables (if your amp can take it), and run a new 4ga ground cable from the battery to the body ground (<- is not 4ga ) as well (and sand off all the paint under the factory ground connection! WTF GM! ).

Must be nice to live in the US of A They are impossible to find here, the only importer went out of business! I buy them by the case (32 at a time) from Amazon and pay absolutely retarded shipping rates to get them here

That Alpine Type R sub I linked in my previous post, if you read the reviews people say it's a very "punchy" sub and hits hard, not too droony on the low stuff, etc. You wouldn't be disappointed with it I'm sure! That sub you linked is just like the stock sub, other than you'll be feeding it way more power

My RE Audio SEX 10D4 with the 1000 watt amp hits so damn hard, takes the breath out of your lungs and chatters your teeth. It's a long excursion sub so I'm not sure that's what you're looking for, because on low notes it shakes your head so hard it blurs your vision. I've never heard a 10" sub hit low like that one (even 10w7's).

-Jamie M.

JSSpedale

Thanks for all that input. That is retarded how GM ran the ground wire. Why should I replace it though and not just clean the body ground to bare metal? I will run the remote turn on wire to the power window fuse. And I think I will go with the Kicker CVT Sub Kicker 10CVT104 Component Car Subwoofers at Onlinecarstereo.com

toysareforboys

Great price on the Kicker! Nice specs too, 13mm xmax, not bad for shallow mount! Bet it'll sound great! EDIT: Looks like it's designed more for ported enclosures, not sealed? Look at the sealed box requirements: Minimum Sealed Box Volume 0.8 cubic feet, Maximum Sealed Box Volume 3.0 cubic feet. I don't think that'd work very well in the .6 stock box

Still thinking about using the same 300watt amp?

GM put the ground wire in there to barely feed everything the CAR needs. When you start adding your amp to the mix, the factory ground wire is insufficient. You can just add on to it (don't need to replace it), just add a 4ga cable from the battery terminal to the factory ground spot, it only needs to be like 1ft long

-Jamie M.

JSSpedale

I was thinking the same thing about the box size being to small. On Kickers website it shows the spec to be .7 cu/ft so I don't think it would be to bad. Do you happen to know the depth of the box so I know what it can or can't fit in it?

The Alpine shallow mount is just to much money. I hear the Pioneer isn't very good. I am thinking to Kenwood probably wont sound very good. The Kicker is looking like the winner now. I heard the Kicker in the back of an Avalanche (not sure the size of the box it was in) but it sounded good. I think the RF P3 might be another one to look at.

toysareforboys

Do you have a link? The .8 MINIMUM is what I got off the Kicker site!?

From that description, for listing to rock music, etc. with that speaker, I think you'd want the largest box you can get!

Yeah, shallow mount are really tricky Why not mount a regular sub inverted like mine? So much better cooling for it and would be easier to find a nice sub for ya

-Jamie M.

JSSpedale

Mounting it like yours has come across my mind a few times. Would I still be looking at sealed box specs or is there a different spec if it is inverted? If I went that route what sub would you recommend with that amp?

toysareforboys

Nope, no difference mounting it inverted, other than 1) the sub is not taking up space in the box and 2) you can fit more fluff in the box to make it "seem" bigger.

Not sure what sub to recommend to you. Anything with an xmax around 15mm and an RMS rating of 500watts and a dual 4 ohm voice coil would would be good

For $68 there's this one, 600watts RMS, 13mm xmax, dual 4 ohm. .25 to .75 cu ft

For $50 there's this one, 500 watts RMS, 22mm xmax, dual 4 ohm, .75 cu ft

OMG SUPER NICE! For $80 there's a Clarion sub, 500 watts RMS, 18.5mm xmax, dual 4 ohm, 0.4 to 1.2 ft with .5 recommended

I'll edit this post and paste in more as I find them

-Jamie M.

JSSpedale

I want to stick with running it at 4 ohms (I like it to run cool). Here is what I am thinking:

Polk Polk Audio MM1040 Mobile Monitor series 10" 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com[rank7]10%22#details-tab

I'm having a hard time finding something that is good in a .6 cu/ft box

toysareforboys

Ohhhh, not bad! 350rms (so fine for the amp's 300 at 4 ohms), xmax of 25mm!! (that thing's gonna thump), sensitivity of 91! (it's going to punch nice!), single 4 ohm voice coil (although the picture does show a dual voice coil!?) Polk Audio MM1040 (MM0-1040) 10" Single 4 ohm Mobile Monitor Sub, .66 cu ft.

And actually, you won't believe this, I think that sub will FIT IN THE STOCK COBALT BOX! I mean THE RIGHT WAY! It's mounting depth is 4.5 inches, that's a damn shallow sub! If it didn't quite fit you can get an MDF mount ring that will raise the sub up .5" or .75" to give you the room.

I think you just found your sub

*EDIT: $86 from Amazon!! http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-AA3...9450542&sr=1-3

-Jamie M.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

no offence but putting a sub in the stock box like that is pretty retarded

JSSpedale

This is what I will be going with! I'll post pictures and let you know how it turns out. Thanks for your help!

toysareforboys

Sounds good! Can't wait for the pics Do you have a good camera? Take some video too! I'll shoot a video of my system soon, before the dual 12's go in.

If it fits "in" the box without much fuss, I think it'll be "the" sub to recommend to people upgrading their stock one (especially because it comes in a dual 4 ohm for people that like to push the limits ).

-Jamie M.

toysareforboys

Do you mean my RE sub? Or any sub mounted inverted? Or even the Polk sub in the box properly?

So basically you're saying don't put ANY descent subs in/on the stock box? lol

The only issue I have with mounting my RE inverted is that it's difficult to take cool excursion videos!!

-Jamie M.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

ok a shallow sub mounted in the stock box is for someone who wants more then stock but doesnt want to lose space. u get decent sound but dont expect miracles. if u put a regular sub mounted inverted in the stock box u lose ur space anyway so u might as well just do up a new box and get better sound.

i am also pretty confident the tiny ass stock box is the only reason ur sex 10 isnt blown right now

toysareforboys

lol. Small box = good power handling, and think of the cooling I'm getting! No burnt voice coils for me! I just have to be careful with the 1000watt amp, easy to bottom out the sub with it Was playing Tyga - Rack City in my car tonight, and at about the 20 second mark I'm like "damn, a new rattle just started". Popped my trunk, whops, that's the sub! lol! Gotta keep the volume down a lil on that one!

The RE inverted doesn't take up MUCH more room in the trunk, certainly less than a proper box would

(Before the amp upgrade):

LICK FOR HIGH RES!

-Jamie M.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

right but ur limiting the sub as well. its easier and better overall to put the sub in the proper box so its louder from the get go and u can turn everything down running the sub amp and all components cooler

i mean i get why u did it and cool but not something i would recommend