Projectors wont turn on
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Projectors wont turn on
I bought retros off a member on here 5 months ago. Worked great without any issues until about a month ago. Started off with them not turning on randomly and in order to get them on I would have to turn the auto switch on and off numerous times. But then tonight I couldnt get them to turn on at all no matter how many times i switched them on and off. The weird thing is that the LEDs and the blue halos work just fine. Its JUST the projectors that dont work.
It seems that some component has gone out/bad but I'm not knowdledable enough to know what it is.
It seems that some component has gone out/bad but I'm not knowdledable enough to know what it is.
#3
The projectors dont go bad lol. The are just lenses. I would test your ballasts, sounds like they are failing(common with cheap HIDS). Other than that check your bulbs, and lastly the wiring. Test everything if you can before just throwing some ballasts at it though.
#6
Senior Member
iTrader: (6)
Retros are more plug and play than your gen lights modified. Should still be able to reconnect the light to the stock harness, not the ballast connection which I assume is an AMP connection
#8
Member
Thread Starter
What are DRLs?
I dont have my stock bulbs. Part of the deal was sending him my stock headlights
And i know the projectors dont get bad. I meant along the lines of ballast or power supply.
What would be the procedure of testing the ballast?
I dont have my stock bulbs. Part of the deal was sending him my stock headlights
The projectors dont go bad lol. The are just lenses. I would test your ballasts, sounds like they are failing(common with cheap HIDS). Other than that check your bulbs, and lastly the wiring. Test everything if you can before just throwing some ballasts at it though.
What would be the procedure of testing the ballast?
#11
DRL stands for daytime running lights. There is a reason why they cause your ballasts to go bad, cant remember exactly though.
For testing the ballasts, youll need a basic voltmeter or some sort of test light at least. Unplug the bulb from the ballast(positive wire). Then test for 12v while grounding your other test lead to any suitable ground. Make sure you turn the headlights on AFTER youve unplugged the ballast from the bulb.
For testing the ballasts, youll need a basic voltmeter or some sort of test light at least. Unplug the bulb from the ballast(positive wire). Then test for 12v while grounding your other test lead to any suitable ground. Make sure you turn the headlights on AFTER youve unplugged the ballast from the bulb.
#14
Member
Thread Starter
HIDs
no i never unhooked my DRLs. So once I do get them working again I should look up how to disconnect the DRLs?
and ill try to go buy a multimeter and test them out to see if theyre bad. is it normal for both ballasts to go out at the same exact time or for on to not work unless the other is working?
DRL stands for daytime running lights. There is a reason why they cause your ballasts to go bad, cant remember exactly though.
For testing the ballasts, youll need a basic voltmeter or some sort of test light at least. Unplug the bulb from the ballast(positive wire). Then test for 12v while grounding your other test lead to any suitable ground. Make sure you turn the headlights on AFTER youve unplugged the ballast from the bulb.
For testing the ballasts, youll need a basic voltmeter or some sort of test light at least. Unplug the bulb from the ballast(positive wire). Then test for 12v while grounding your other test lead to any suitable ground. Make sure you turn the headlights on AFTER youve unplugged the ballast from the bulb.
and ill try to go buy a multimeter and test them out to see if theyre bad. is it normal for both ballasts to go out at the same exact time or for on to not work unless the other is working?
#18
Member
Thread Starter
Alright guys. I bought a multimeter and today I tested both sides. I left the ground plugged into the headlights and unplugged the positive wire. I put the multimeter positive into the ballast connection and the multimeter negative onto a ground on my car.
I got these readings:
Driver side: ~50-70V
Passenger side: ~180V
I'm not sure on the units cuz that many volts doesn't seem right. And it's strange one is so much different.
I got these readings:
Driver side: ~50-70V
Passenger side: ~180V
I'm not sure on the units cuz that many volts doesn't seem right. And it's strange one is so much different.
#20
Member
Thread Starter
It was ACV 200. should i do it over with DC? 10A?
Innova Electronics 3300 - Multimeter | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Innova Electronics 3300 - Multimeter | O'Reilly Auto Parts
#23
Member
Thread Starter
Redid the tests and this time I got 12-20V on both sides. So it seems like I'm getting power from my ballasts right? What's the next step? Bulbs?
Last edited by Manopka; 12-15-2013 at 11:35 PM.