Questions, 2006 Cobalt.
03-15-2009, 02:08 AM
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Questions, 2006 Cobalt.
Hello, as you can see I'm new to these parts. I have been scanning the forums, for the past week or so, so I kinda understand what I'm attempting to do.
Okay, first of all my car setup.
2006 Chevy Cobalt
Factory Radio system, with 7 speakers (tweeters, and a sub)
Okay, so I want to upgrade my headunit, sub, and eventually front and rear speakers.
For my headunit, I'm looking at this Sony CDX-GT630UI (LINK).
--The only accessories that I'll need for the install are the wiring harness, mounting kit (single-din), and the antenna adapter, correct?
--I don't need to retain steering wheel controls, and i don't need the OEM adapter, to retain the oil life, and sound features, since my cobalt is an 2006, correct?
--When I get the wiring harness, do I need to re-pin them, and is there a way I could go without needing to re-pin them?
--Just by connecting the wiring harness to the existing factory wires, all of the speakers should work (front, rear, and tweeters), and the sub should not, until I connect that like you would with any other subs, so technically the head unit would have two amps connected to it, the factory amp, and the aftermarket amp for the sub, correct?
For my sub, I want to keep the factory enclosure, so I need a shallow mount, and I'm looking at this Kicker CompVT 07CVT102 (LINK). It says mounting top mount depth= 4-5/16"
--Should I use a dynamat like substance on the inside, and backside of the sub enclosure?
--What is the difference between 2ohm and 4ohm, and if I had to choose what one should I get?
For the amp, since if everything is right, I should only need to power up the kicker sub, and this is where I need help. That sub that I have listed as a 2-ohm, handles 50-400 watts RMS, so since its only the sub, I should get a mono amp, that pushes 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms. If so, is there a specific type that I should get, could I get the cheapest one at that wattage, or does $200 or so sound right for one of these amps?
Random questions:
--The factory amp is located under the steering wheel, and its bolted vertical?
--Where is the fuse box located, so I can run the remote cable to it
--When I connect the amp, should I run the cables from the headunit, through the center console, and under the rear seats, with a little showing from the rear cup holders, to the seat cushion, or should I run it along the passenger side, under the carpets, and such?
--Should I mount the amp to the rear seats, or should I mount it just below the rear 6x9's?
--And finally, when I replace the rear 6x9's, do I need to purchase some kind of speaker mount, because when I tried to replace them once, the aftermarket speakers, would be flush on the front side, but on the rear, they would be lifted just a little?
Thanks for taking time, with my questions. Oh and I will be installing everything, with help of a friend, but I would just like to know some info before we attempt to do this. Thanks again, and Hello.
Okay, first of all my car setup.
2006 Chevy Cobalt
Factory Radio system, with 7 speakers (tweeters, and a sub)
Okay, so I want to upgrade my headunit, sub, and eventually front and rear speakers.
For my headunit, I'm looking at this Sony CDX-GT630UI (LINK).
--The only accessories that I'll need for the install are the wiring harness, mounting kit (single-din), and the antenna adapter, correct?
--I don't need to retain steering wheel controls, and i don't need the OEM adapter, to retain the oil life, and sound features, since my cobalt is an 2006, correct?
--When I get the wiring harness, do I need to re-pin them, and is there a way I could go without needing to re-pin them?
--Just by connecting the wiring harness to the existing factory wires, all of the speakers should work (front, rear, and tweeters), and the sub should not, until I connect that like you would with any other subs, so technically the head unit would have two amps connected to it, the factory amp, and the aftermarket amp for the sub, correct?
For my sub, I want to keep the factory enclosure, so I need a shallow mount, and I'm looking at this Kicker CompVT 07CVT102 (LINK). It says mounting top mount depth= 4-5/16"
--Should I use a dynamat like substance on the inside, and backside of the sub enclosure?
--What is the difference between 2ohm and 4ohm, and if I had to choose what one should I get?
For the amp, since if everything is right, I should only need to power up the kicker sub, and this is where I need help. That sub that I have listed as a 2-ohm, handles 50-400 watts RMS, so since its only the sub, I should get a mono amp, that pushes 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms. If so, is there a specific type that I should get, could I get the cheapest one at that wattage, or does $200 or so sound right for one of these amps?
Random questions:
--The factory amp is located under the steering wheel, and its bolted vertical?
--Where is the fuse box located, so I can run the remote cable to it
--When I connect the amp, should I run the cables from the headunit, through the center console, and under the rear seats, with a little showing from the rear cup holders, to the seat cushion, or should I run it along the passenger side, under the carpets, and such?
--Should I mount the amp to the rear seats, or should I mount it just below the rear 6x9's?
--And finally, when I replace the rear 6x9's, do I need to purchase some kind of speaker mount, because when I tried to replace them once, the aftermarket speakers, would be flush on the front side, but on the rear, they would be lifted just a little?
Thanks for taking time, with my questions. Oh and I will be installing everything, with help of a friend, but I would just like to know some info before we attempt to do this. Thanks again, and Hello.
03-15-2009, 07:22 AM
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the sub ur wanting the stock enclosure is 2 small for that sub the stock enclosure is .3cu. ft. or around there the sub ur wanting needs at least .7cu.ft. of air space
the pioneer subs need around .35cu.ft.
the pioneer subs need around .35cu.ft.
03-16-2009, 12:37 AM
#3
Hello, as you can see I'm new to these parts. I have been scanning the forums, for the past week or so, so I kinda understand what I'm attempting to do.
Okay, first of all my car setup.
2006 Chevy Cobalt
Factory Radio system, with 7 speakers (tweeters, and a sub)
Okay, so I want to upgrade my headunit, sub, and eventually front and rear speakers.
For my headunit, I'm looking at this Sony CDX-GT630UI (LINK).
--The only accessories that I'll need for the install are the wiring harness, mounting kit (single-din), and the antenna adapter, correct? correct
--I don't need to retain steering wheel controls, and i don't need the OEM adapter, to retain the oil life, and sound features, since my cobalt is an 2006, correct? dic controls are isolated from the radio so non concerns there. as long as you get the correct harness you will be fine
--When I get the wiring harness, do I need to re-pin them, and is there a way I could go without needing to re-pin them? buy the correct harness
--Just by connecting the wiring harness to the existing factory wires, all of the speakers should work (front, rear, and tweeters), and the sub should not, until I connect that like you would with any other subs, so technically the head unit would have two amps connected to it, the factory amp, and the aftermarket amp for the sub, correct? with the correct harness everything will work like factory. all the speakers sub included run off one amp.
For my sub, I want to keep the factory enclosure, so I need a shallow mount, and I'm looking at this Kicker CompVT 07CVT102 (LINK). It says mounting top mount depth= 4-5/16"
--Should I use a dynamat like substance on the inside, and backside of the sub enclosure? not really there's no need... the only issue you'll need to do is cover the hole in the back (stock sub is screwed in thru the back) if you want to add anything anything you can use some polyfill in the box thou
--What is the difference between 2ohm and 4ohm, and if I had to choose what one should I get? depends on the amp ur getting. if your running of the stock amp you want a single 2 ohm or dual 2 ohm sub. There are 2 channels of amplication running to the stock sub (dual 2) and i wouldnt try bridging them or anything like that. So a single 2 ohm will be running at half power with the dual 2 running off full power. a single 4 ohm would run off 1/8th power and a dual 4 would be half power
if ur picking up a new amp a single 4/ dual 2 would run a 2 channel bridged at full power. and a single 2/ dual 4 would run a mono block full power
For the amp, since if everything is right, I should only need to power up the kicker sub, and this is where I need help. That sub that I have listed as a 2-ohm, handles 50-400 watts RMS, so since its only the sub, I should get a mono amp, that pushes 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms. If so, is there a specific type that I should get, could I get the cheapest one at that wattage, or does $200 or so sound right for one of these amps?
look for something name brand... once you find anything ask me and ill gladly give you my advice on it. Theres a million amp companies out there and most are fine but theres alot of crap out there too
Random questions:
--The factory amp is located under the steering wheel, and its bolted vertical?yes but its horizontal
--Where is the fuse box located, so I can run the remote cable to it on the passenger side of the center console. you'll see a lil symbol on the piece you need to take off to get to it
--When I connect the amp, should I run the cables from the headunit, through the center console, and under the rear seats, with a little showing from the rear cup holders, to the seat cushion, or should I run it along the passenger side, under the carpets, and such? don't be ghetto run the rcas on the pass side under the plastic trim. its pretty easy to remove
--Should I mount the amp to the rear seats, or should I mount it just below the rear 6x9's?rear seats
--And finally, when I replace the rear 6x9's, do I need to purchase some kind of speaker mount, because when I tried to replace them once, the aftermarket speakers, would be flush on the front side, but on the rear, they would be lifted just a little? you shouldn't need an adapter but it depends on the basket of the 6X9. for the most part an adapter wouldn't help if the basket is to big anyway. just screw them in as securely as possible and possibly add foam to seal it up if your really ****
Thanks for taking time, with my questions. Oh and I will be installing everything, with help of a friend, but I would just like to know some info before we attempt to do this. Thanks again, and Hello.
Okay, first of all my car setup.
2006 Chevy Cobalt
Factory Radio system, with 7 speakers (tweeters, and a sub)
Okay, so I want to upgrade my headunit, sub, and eventually front and rear speakers.
For my headunit, I'm looking at this Sony CDX-GT630UI (LINK).
--The only accessories that I'll need for the install are the wiring harness, mounting kit (single-din), and the antenna adapter, correct? correct
--I don't need to retain steering wheel controls, and i don't need the OEM adapter, to retain the oil life, and sound features, since my cobalt is an 2006, correct? dic controls are isolated from the radio so non concerns there. as long as you get the correct harness you will be fine
--When I get the wiring harness, do I need to re-pin them, and is there a way I could go without needing to re-pin them? buy the correct harness
--Just by connecting the wiring harness to the existing factory wires, all of the speakers should work (front, rear, and tweeters), and the sub should not, until I connect that like you would with any other subs, so technically the head unit would have two amps connected to it, the factory amp, and the aftermarket amp for the sub, correct? with the correct harness everything will work like factory. all the speakers sub included run off one amp.
For my sub, I want to keep the factory enclosure, so I need a shallow mount, and I'm looking at this Kicker CompVT 07CVT102 (LINK). It says mounting top mount depth= 4-5/16"
--Should I use a dynamat like substance on the inside, and backside of the sub enclosure? not really there's no need... the only issue you'll need to do is cover the hole in the back (stock sub is screwed in thru the back) if you want to add anything anything you can use some polyfill in the box thou
--What is the difference between 2ohm and 4ohm, and if I had to choose what one should I get? depends on the amp ur getting. if your running of the stock amp you want a single 2 ohm or dual 2 ohm sub. There are 2 channels of amplication running to the stock sub (dual 2) and i wouldnt try bridging them or anything like that. So a single 2 ohm will be running at half power with the dual 2 running off full power. a single 4 ohm would run off 1/8th power and a dual 4 would be half power
if ur picking up a new amp a single 4/ dual 2 would run a 2 channel bridged at full power. and a single 2/ dual 4 would run a mono block full power
For the amp, since if everything is right, I should only need to power up the kicker sub, and this is where I need help. That sub that I have listed as a 2-ohm, handles 50-400 watts RMS, so since its only the sub, I should get a mono amp, that pushes 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms. If so, is there a specific type that I should get, could I get the cheapest one at that wattage, or does $200 or so sound right for one of these amps?
look for something name brand... once you find anything ask me and ill gladly give you my advice on it. Theres a million amp companies out there and most are fine but theres alot of crap out there too
Random questions:
--The factory amp is located under the steering wheel, and its bolted vertical?yes but its horizontal
--Where is the fuse box located, so I can run the remote cable to it on the passenger side of the center console. you'll see a lil symbol on the piece you need to take off to get to it
--When I connect the amp, should I run the cables from the headunit, through the center console, and under the rear seats, with a little showing from the rear cup holders, to the seat cushion, or should I run it along the passenger side, under the carpets, and such? don't be ghetto run the rcas on the pass side under the plastic trim. its pretty easy to remove
--Should I mount the amp to the rear seats, or should I mount it just below the rear 6x9's?rear seats
--And finally, when I replace the rear 6x9's, do I need to purchase some kind of speaker mount, because when I tried to replace them once, the aftermarket speakers, would be flush on the front side, but on the rear, they would be lifted just a little? you shouldn't need an adapter but it depends on the basket of the 6X9. for the most part an adapter wouldn't help if the basket is to big anyway. just screw them in as securely as possible and possibly add foam to seal it up if your really ****
Thanks for taking time, with my questions. Oh and I will be installing everything, with help of a friend, but I would just like to know some info before we attempt to do this. Thanks again, and Hello.
03-16-2009, 06:57 PM
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friends don't let friends destroy their cars. There's alot of helpful people on this site if you hit a wall somehow, chill out ask here and finish it up later. cobalts aren't the easiest car to work on and as many of them as I've done personally i still take a bit of time to work on em
Okay, since I'm not getting the adapter for the sound controls on the steering wheel, I will not loose the cruise controls, correct.
Polyfill, will that improve the sound, should I do it, or not, or is it more optional depending on the listener.
Its okay if the 6x9 arent completely flush with the rear deck, but just securely fasten.
And when you were talking about the 2-ohm or 4-ohm, was like a foreign language to me. lol. But if I was going to get a new amp to run a new sub off of, what type of sub should I get 2-ohm or 4-ohm.
And finally for the amp wattage. Say the sub runs 50-400 RMS, with a max 800, would an amp that pushes 500 RMS be too good, or would it be too much and blow the sub. Thanks again.
EDIT: Okay so Ill be adding the headunit first, and the amp/sub later, should I buy the amp cables, and connect them to the headunit, while I'm switching it out, or should I just worry about that when I have everything else to go. And with the existing factory sub wiring, just leave it alone, or should I disconnect them from the factory amp.
03-17-2009, 01:16 AM
#5
correct
polyfill is basiclly the same stuffing found in pilllows and what not. It makes the sub think its in a bigger box then it actually is. It might help a bit and it might do nothing but its cheap so.... you can use it if u want
yes
if ur getting a new amp then what sub u get depends on the amp u get. there is no advantage 2 ohm vs 4 ohm you just want to match with the amp
dont look at max/peak power. a 400w rms sub and a 500w rms amp should be ok. Your best bet is to match the sub and amp rms power that way you dont blow the sub.
Well taking out the trim is a bit of a bitch so i would at least run the remote/ rcas. You can plug them in and wrap them up and hide them under the carpet or zip tie them up in the dash like i did if you dont want to fully run them to the trunk. There really isn't much to disconnect in terms of the factory sub. ya you can do it at the sub itself in the back but what would be the point if ur not swapping the sub until later. Just install the HU with ur rca/remote wire and it would work just like factory. then when ur going to swap the sub and stuff you can just disconnect the plug at the sub box and tuck it under the carpet
polyfill is basiclly the same stuffing found in pilllows and what not. It makes the sub think its in a bigger box then it actually is. It might help a bit and it might do nothing but its cheap so.... you can use it if u want
yes
if ur getting a new amp then what sub u get depends on the amp u get. there is no advantage 2 ohm vs 4 ohm you just want to match with the amp
dont look at max/peak power. a 400w rms sub and a 500w rms amp should be ok. Your best bet is to match the sub and amp rms power that way you dont blow the sub.
Well taking out the trim is a bit of a bitch so i would at least run the remote/ rcas. You can plug them in and wrap them up and hide them under the carpet or zip tie them up in the dash like i did if you dont want to fully run them to the trunk. There really isn't much to disconnect in terms of the factory sub. ya you can do it at the sub itself in the back but what would be the point if ur not swapping the sub until later. Just install the HU with ur rca/remote wire and it would work just like factory. then when ur going to swap the sub and stuff you can just disconnect the plug at the sub box and tuck it under the carpet
03-17-2009, 02:05 AM
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Alright thanks Emperor.
with the factory sub, what is the maximum cubic feet that i can get out of it, or should i get a RF P3 and be done with it.
and the remote wire goes into the fuse box, and that is located to the right of the glove box.
and when i mount the amp to the back seat, i just drill it, is there any specific way too (like when hanging a shelf on a wall, by finding the 2x4) or is the entire back okay for drilling.
and that should be it, until i get stuck or another question pops up. thanks again.
edit: ohh is it difficult to remove the door panels, or should i just get those 6.5 speakers done at a shop.
with the factory sub, what is the maximum cubic feet that i can get out of it, or should i get a RF P3 and be done with it.
and the remote wire goes into the fuse box, and that is located to the right of the glove box.
and when i mount the amp to the back seat, i just drill it, is there any specific way too (like when hanging a shelf on a wall, by finding the 2x4) or is the entire back okay for drilling.
and that should be it, until i get stuck or another question pops up. thanks again.
edit: ohh is it difficult to remove the door panels, or should i just get those 6.5 speakers done at a shop.
03-17-2009, 02:10 AM
#7
rf p3 works. honestly they are all similar so since they are going in the same box theres not going to be too big of a difference.
remote wire would come off the deck. then the deck gets accessory from the fuse box. The seats in cobalts have a backing thruout so you can mount the amp wherever
remote wire would come off the deck. then the deck gets accessory from the fuse box. The seats in cobalts have a backing thruout so you can mount the amp wherever
03-17-2009, 02:29 AM
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okay so you mean all similar, so does that mean that the kicker compvt 10 would work in the enclosure, the compvt 10 needs .8-3 air space and the P3 needs .4-1, or should i just get the P3.
and pertaining to the remote, your saying that i would run the remote wire from the amp to the headunit, instead of running it and tapping into the fuse box???
and pertaining to the remote, your saying that i would run the remote wire from the amp to the headunit, instead of running it and tapping into the fuse box???
03-17-2009, 02:36 AM
#9
the P3 probably would work better but if u want the kicker for some reason over the P3 then get it. After hearing so many and thinking which sounds better/worse ive realized that they are so similar it doesnt matter. much like the cobalt/g5/ion are they different yes but deep down really the same **** so get whatever floats ur boat
03-17-2009, 04:11 PM
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Hey, I went to go and pick everything up today, and the wiring harness that I got is a Metra 70-2102. I looked in the faq, and it says that I need Metra 70-2103. Would the current harness that I have work with my cobalt.
03-17-2009, 11:58 PM
#11
the 2102 is the saturn version. it may or may not "work" depending on the pinout. They are pinned diffrently but you may be lucky and the only difference is mismatched speakers (on some saturns the font and rear speakers are swapped) or it could be completely different i honestly dont know
03-18-2009, 12:25 AM
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here are the pinouts.
A
1--white/black
2--white
3--purple/black
4--purple
5--green/black
6--green
7--gray/black
8--gray
9--
10--
11--
12--black
B
1--yellow
2--
3--
4--
5--
6--blue/white
7--orange/white
8--orange
9--
10--
11--red
12--
A
1--white/black
2--white
3--purple/black
4--purple
5--green/black
6--green
7--gray/black
8--gray
9--
10--
11--
12--black
B
1--yellow
2--
3--
4--
5--
6--blue/white
7--orange/white
8--orange
9--
10--
11--red
12--
03-18-2009, 02:04 AM
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alright, i was just going to hook em up tomorrow, to see what happens. and even if i need to repin them, how do you get them out of the slot. i cant get the wires to come out,
but one question on this harness there is an amp rem, do i use that for the factory amp, or is that the aftermarket amp.
but one question on this harness there is an amp rem, do i use that for the factory amp, or is that the aftermarket amp.
03-18-2009, 01:07 PM
#15
ya just checked and the only diffrence is the B section. constant is the same but the remove looks to be in B7 instead of B6... the illum and acc arent in this one so make sure not to hook those up. Check to see what if any wire the blue/white is going to. The stock amp remote turn on is pink and you only need to hook it up if you have the pioneer system. Otherwise cap it off and don't worry about it
03-19-2009, 01:25 AM
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ehhh, i went to a local audio shop, with a friend, and we decided to get the 120 harness. i know i dont need it, but they said it controls the computer somehow. idk, really what they were talkn about.
but with that harness we couldnt get the sub to work, and/or control the bass/treble and i really didnt want to cut the factory wires, so i can replace everything when i sell in 3-4 years. and i would rather be safe than sorry. oh well, hopefully that goes easier.
but where is the amp located to be exact. we couldnt find it if our life depended on it.
but with that harness we couldnt get the sub to work, and/or control the bass/treble and i really didnt want to cut the factory wires, so i can replace everything when i sell in 3-4 years. and i would rather be safe than sorry. oh well, hopefully that goes easier.
but where is the amp located to be exact. we couldnt find it if our life depended on it.
03-19-2009, 01:32 AM
#17
take that harness the **** back. i don't know what 120 dollar harness you got but metra doesn't make one for the sole reason you don't need em. If you got a pac or scosche or who knows WTF harness its gonna be a waste of ur time and money.
lol if you really need one i can probably sell you one from the shop
amp is located under the dash by the steering column. its a silver box the size of a vhs tape.
lol if you really need one i can probably sell you one from the shop
amp is located under the dash by the steering column. its a silver box the size of a vhs tape.
Last edited by EmperorJJ1; 03-19-2009 at 01:32 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-19-2009, 01:50 AM
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i guess im going to wait, and go pick it up when it comes in and look at it and be like derr are u sure that i need this. ha ha...
i really shouldnt have to swap out the tweeters do i.
i really shouldnt have to swap out the tweeters do i.
03-19-2009, 02:04 AM
#19
no man all u need is the 15 dollar harness 70-2103... everything works like factory with that harness, tweeters, sub speakers ect. (they will get "louder" persay since you will be overdriving the stock amp but everything will work) You do realize if they order it and it comes in not only is there a good possibly they will say "all custom orders cannot be returned for a refund" and they will say that's exactly what you need regardless of if you need it or not.
I'm not trying to bad talk these guys but not only do i drive the exact same car you do(year and all) i've done enough work on mine to know the ins and outs on these babies.
I'm not trying to bad talk these guys but not only do i drive the exact same car you do(year and all) i've done enough work on mine to know the ins and outs on these babies.
03-19-2009, 06:35 PM
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alight i have gotten everything taken care of, just waiting on my friend to help, btw.... what is all this talk about battery's not fitting in the stock mount. does this include all batteries, or just batteries for performance on subs.
03-25-2009, 07:44 PM
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okay, well i got my harness and everything, and got my sub to also work, but i have a problem, it seems that i can not fit the headunit into the current slot, its like i dont have enough clearance for it.
03-25-2009, 10:19 PM
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03-25-2009, 10:28 PM
#25
it really depends. all radios with the normal depth (whatever that is) do stick out. but there are a few that are shorter and a few that are deeper as well. Sony should be either the normal size or smaller
i just got some dikes and tried to cut it as evenly as possible in a square. Seeing as im pretty **** on looks i then used a dremel to sand it all smooth but thats not necessary. The metal bar is held on with 7mm bolts (3?) if you have to take it out and i would recommend taking out the bolts over cutting/breaking it out like a few other members have done (due to difficulty and overall cleanliness)... with a small 1/4 drive ratchet its a bit of a pain but not too difficult
i just got some dikes and tried to cut it as evenly as possible in a square. Seeing as im pretty **** on looks i then used a dremel to sand it all smooth but thats not necessary. The metal bar is held on with 7mm bolts (3?) if you have to take it out and i would recommend taking out the bolts over cutting/breaking it out like a few other members have done (due to difficulty and overall cleanliness)... with a small 1/4 drive ratchet its a bit of a pain but not too difficult