Hi all,

i have searched the forums and messaged a few people who state they are experts, but no replies so I throw the question out for others who are experts with remote start alarms. I have an '08 base ls 2 dr. Got an alarm for x-mas and originally thought i'll have someone install it, but after getting quotes of 300 and above, I thought that's silly. I am not scared to install it, and have put systems in cars before, including this one, as well as alarms without the remote start.

Here is the question for you all: If I provide a pic of the wiring diagram, can someone tell me which wires to connect to? Talking specifically the remote start portion. i have been to bulldog's website and seen where to put the alarm sections wires.

I realize I will need the PKUGM2X transponder bypass, but there are a few wires i'm hesitant on. Knowing that an incorrect choice could prove damaging to say the least, would someone be willing to step up and assist with the last remaining wires to complete the install? preferably someone who has already done one on a cobalt?

Please help if you can!

thanks and Happy New Year!

chuck

 

Here ya go.You better have a dvm to double check the wires.And dont be probing the wires with a test light.Its not that hard,but if you dont know what ur doing youll be scratching ur head.

CHEVROLET



MODEL YEAR(S)
COBALT 2006 -2008

KEY T-HARNESS IMMOBILIZER
N/A N/A GM'S PASSKEY 3 TRANSPONDER ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM, Requires BYPASS PKUGM2X OR XK06 with PKG7 2.00 firmware

PART COLOR LOCATION
12 VOLT CONSTANT RED/BLACK (+) @ BCM, C3, Pin D1, See NOTE *1
STARTER YELLOW (NOT Required for REMOTE START) See NOTE *2 @ PCM, BLUE Plug, Pin 48, 46 or 56, See NOTE *2
STARTER 2 N/A
IGNITION 1 YELLOW (+) @ IGNITION HARNESS or BCM, C4, Pin D3, See NOTE *1
IGNITION 2 N/A
IGNITION 3 N/A
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 N/A @ IGNITION HARNESS or BCM, C4, Pin C8, See NOTE *1
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A
KEYSENSE N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) BROWN/WHITE (-) @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH or BCM, C2, Pin 5, See NOTE *1
PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BROWN (+) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL or BCM, C2, Pin 5, See NOTE *1
POWER LOCK WHITE (1-Wire Door Lock System) See NOTE *3 IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL or BCM, C1, Pin 7, See NOTE *1
POWER UNLOCK Same wire See DIAGRAMS
DOOR TRIGGER See NOTE *4 IN EACH KICK PANEL or BCM, C1, See NOTE *1
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION GRAY (-) @ BCM, C3, Pin A10, See NOTE *1
TRUNK RELEASE TAN (-) @ TRUNK RELEASE SWITCH or BCM, C2, Pin 10, See NOTE *1
SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A
HORN TAN (-) @ HORN SWITCH or BCM, C2, Pin 14, See NOTE *1
TACH ANY wire NOT PINK or PINK/BLACK @ ANY FUEL-INJECTOR
WAIT TO START LIGHT N/A
BRAKE LIGHT BLUE (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
FACTORY ALARM DISARM DISARMS with FACTORY REWMOTE ONLY!!
ANTI-THEFT GM'S PASSLOCK 3 TRANSPONDER ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM @ IGNITION TUMBLER

EXTRA INFORMATION
NOTE *1 the BCM is part of the FUSE/RELAY BOX on the front PASSENGER SIDE of the CENTER CONSOLE. The BCM has the following connectors: C1-72 Pin GRAY Plug, C2-72 Pin GRAY Plug, C3-41 Pin RED Plug, and C4-68 Pin LIGHT GRAY Plug, the C4 Plug, is located on the BACK of the BCM. NOTE *2 the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is located on the DRIVERS SIDE FENDER, in FRONT of the UNDER HOOD FUSE BOX. The YELLOW STARTER wire is NOT required for REMOTE STARTING. THIS VEHICLE REQUIRES A PKUGM2X OR XKO6 WITH PKG7 2.0 FIRMWARE BYPASS FOR REMOTE STARTING. NOTE *3 This vehicle uses a 1-Wire Door Locking System that will require extra parts. The LOCK requires a Straight (-) Negative and the UNLOCK requires a (-) Negative thru a 1500 Ohm Resistor. Some units will also require (2) extra Relays Part #775 for this function, to connect See DIAGRAMS. NOTE *4 The DRIVERS DOOR is a GRAY/BLACK (-) Pin 22, The PASSENGERS DOOR is a TAN/WHITE (-) Pin 19, The DRIVERS REAR DOOR is a LIGHT BLUE/BLACK (-) Pin 1 and The PASSENGER REAR DOOR is a LIGHT GREEN/BLACK (-) Pin 20, when connecting to an ALARM SYSTEM use all 4 wires and DIODE ISOLATE, to connect See DIAGRAM




Have fun,LOL.

 

what the ****

 

thanks for that, but already have that from the bulldog site. What i need is someone who has already installed one in a cobalt and can tell me where to put the wires based on my alarms diagrams.


kinda my thought too emp, lol

 

The same thing is going through my mind right now.

 

what alarm is it? and i dont remember if you have to flash the transponder bypass. i did mine back in 05 lol. and with the new bypasses you can usually flash the right file and only have to hook up a few wires. if the bypass wont do door locks you will need a 451m if its DEI or 2 relays


and that looks like way to much work lol, mines behind the hvac and radio lol

 

If you have both the car wiring diagram and the alarm diagram and you dont know what wires go where,you shouldnt be doing the alarm.It should be pretty self explanatory if u did an alarm before like u said u did.

I like the installs on my car to be out of sight.Its a clifford avantguard 5 alarm.Anyone who has ever installed one of these knows it has a **** load of wires and it cant be tucked away just anywhere.Even the siren is tucked away under the headlight.

 

Your siren is under your headlight?
You don't want to do that. Trust me, blame it on a mis-spent youth.
First the area under the headlights gets way to much water and dirt in it for a siren, have you ever herd a siren that got water in it, sounds more like a wounded duck.
Second the area under the headlight is way to easy to reach, its only a plastic panel under it,
Any thief is going to know that the battery is in the trunk, and the only way to get at it is through the trunk lid, this means having to disable the siren before you go for the battery, and its not that hard to figure out where the siren is, as long as your within 50 feet of the car when you arm or disarm it you can get a general idea of where in the engine bay its located by the way it echo's.
You want to put it on the fire wall as low as possible and under something, best way to install it is from under the car, and if your running a back up siren like a piezo, then make sure you cant swing a hammer and hit it, its the only way to kill them.

Once they get into the car they have to disable the starter kill from the brain of the alarm, if you have it under the carpet, under the seat they will slice you seats and your floor up to get at it, plus your carpets get wet, and moisture stays traped under your carpet, so your brain will be somewhat wet most of the time.
Water+Electronics=Disaster

 

Well I had to remove the entire center console when I added the armrest so I figured that would be the best place to put the brain, behind the fuse panel is no easy place to get to. And yes, I do have the wiring diagrams for both, but some wires state connecting to any fuel injector, for example. Kinda vague description, cant it be a bit more specific? and according to your post, its says NOT to connect the yellow wire. Why?

 

The siren is fine where its at.Its in a clean dry place and its pointed down.Im not really worried about someone knowing where it is so they can get at it.Even if they went through the hassle of cutting the wire and disconnecting the battery,the siren would still be going off because it has a battery backup on it.Even if they had acces to the brain,they would still have to reconnect the ignition wires to start it.Its not a cheap alarm where u can just unplug it and the car will start.But like i say,i dont really care.If they want the car that bad they can have it,lol.I just put everything out of sight cause i dont want any wires in sight.I like it to look like i was never in there.


Post up the brand of alarm and diagram and ill help you out with what i can.As for the yellow wire.You dont need it.These cars dont have a starter wire.Its starts up when ignition wire powers up,and another ignition wire gets a voltage drop.You might have to wire up some relays,but its not too bad.

 

wow... i have never seen someone install a car alarm like that!!! lmao

u def dont need to pull the floor liner.

 

The question was not if they wanted the car if they could take it, no alarm is going to stop a good car thief, the question was what shape your car was going to be in when you got it back.
Thieves are not without a sense of humor or irony, I knew these guys who if you had 'The Club' would leave it on your door step so you would know what a waste of money it was.

My point was if you make there life a pain in the ass there going to return the favour, I know its f*#ked up but its the way it is.

BTW- I don't know any alarm that you can just disconnect and the car willl start again, the best way to make sure they can't take the whole car is to set up the feul pump or the ECU on a seperate switch. In my civic I had the ECU wired into the Hazard lights, so the car would not start unless you hit the Hazard light button. My buddy had his fuel pump wired into his cigarette lighter

 

Most basic car alarms are like that.The starter kill relay that are used in most alrarms are activated from a negative output when the alarm is armed.Once you unplug the alarm brain,the car will start.Since the relay is normally closed,its useless when the alarm is unplugged.