sound deading opinions
#1
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sound deading opinions
Hey there, im looking to do some sound deadening in my car soon. I just wanted your opinion on a few things. I've never sound deaded using dynomat or any other padded sound deadener of the sort. But what are your opinions of the cheapo home depot method of using duct insulation. Ive seen numerous car of the v8 world use it with great sucsess.
Is it worth spending more money on pridcuts such as dynomat compared to a cheapy solution like mentioned above?
Also, ive read steps to take sound deadening even further. From Stinky's thread, spectrum sludge. Ive also found they have a basic cheapy home depot solution to this as well. I guess what im looking for is justification for spending the extra money on name brand sound deadener stuff over other remedies. Lets hear your opinions guys. Thanks
Is it worth spending more money on pridcuts such as dynomat compared to a cheapy solution like mentioned above?
Also, ive read steps to take sound deadening even further. From Stinky's thread, spectrum sludge. Ive also found they have a basic cheapy home depot solution to this as well. I guess what im looking for is justification for spending the extra money on name brand sound deadener stuff over other remedies. Lets hear your opinions guys. Thanks
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Personally I have 2 layers of Dynomat all over my trunk.
I'm running ONE 10" Alpine Type R and a 650Watt Amp.
The Dynomat def. did help but it didn't take away all the rattling as our cars are NOTORIOUS for rattle.
I havn't heard of any of these other "Home Depot" remedies but I am curious if they work and how to do them.
I'm running ONE 10" Alpine Type R and a 650Watt Amp.
The Dynomat def. did help but it didn't take away all the rattling as our cars are NOTORIOUS for rattle.
I havn't heard of any of these other "Home Depot" remedies but I am curious if they work and how to do them.
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Thanks for the response.
The home depot remedy is some duct insualtion by cold king or something of the nature.
Shown here : http://mikemercury.home.att.net/sound.htm
I was wondering because i plan to sound deaden the entire car. Not for stereo, but for my own benefit. I would like to rid myself of alot of the cars rattles and exterior sound. So if anyone has some ideas or opinions, please feel free.
The home depot remedy is some duct insualtion by cold king or something of the nature.
Shown here : http://mikemercury.home.att.net/sound.htm
I was wondering because i plan to sound deaden the entire car. Not for stereo, but for my own benefit. I would like to rid myself of alot of the cars rattles and exterior sound. So if anyone has some ideas or opinions, please feel free.
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Dynamat is good for rattles and lower frequencies
Spectrum is great stuff but it can get expensive just like dynamat
You’re talking about the pink **** right? The duct insulation will help with just making your car quieter and keeping your car hot/cold. It won’t help much with rattles. Closed cell foam will do the same thing as the duct stuff.
There are off brands of dynamat and spectrum but they aren’t quite as good. For instance they aren’t as thick or made of slightly different materials. They will work though and if your on a budget and want better sq then go for it, what’s it gonna hurt?
eDead is a Rubber Butyl (like dynamat) just lower quality. Scosche makes one too called Accumat. SSA also damplifier and damplifier pro.
SSA is having a sale on some type of stuff like the sludge that I’ve put all over my car. It’s a water based one lower quality but will still do the same thing, like I’ve sad.
Spectrum is great stuff but it can get expensive just like dynamat
You’re talking about the pink **** right? The duct insulation will help with just making your car quieter and keeping your car hot/cold. It won’t help much with rattles. Closed cell foam will do the same thing as the duct stuff.
There are off brands of dynamat and spectrum but they aren’t quite as good. For instance they aren’t as thick or made of slightly different materials. They will work though and if your on a budget and want better sq then go for it, what’s it gonna hurt?
eDead is a Rubber Butyl (like dynamat) just lower quality. Scosche makes one too called Accumat. SSA also damplifier and damplifier pro.
SSA is having a sale on some type of stuff like the sludge that I’ve put all over my car. It’s a water based one lower quality but will still do the same thing, like I’ve sad.
#6
I have a couple rolls of fatmat for sale for $60.00, i don't know the exact sq ft i have, but compared with dynomat, you might get half of one of these rolls fr that price. It's ok stuff too. Dynamat is better but this will still get the job done. https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/parts-66/bfaulk-stuff-sale-audio-stuff-4wheeler-guage-pod-air-tank-158290/
#8
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Dynamat is good for rattles and lower frequencies
Spectrum is great stuff but it can get expensive just like dynamat
Youre talking about the pink **** right? The duct insulation will help with just making your car quieter and keeping your car hot/cold. It wont help much with rattles. Closed cell foam will do the same thing as the duct stuff.
There are off brands of dynamat and spectrum but they arent quite as good. For instance they arent as thick or made of slightly different materials. They will work though and if your on a budget and want better sq then go for it, whats it gonna hurt?
eDead is a Rubber Butyl (like dynamat) just lower quality. Scosche makes one too called Accumat. SSA also damplifier and damplifier pro.
SSA is having a sale on some type of stuff like the sludge that Ive put all over my car. Its a water based one lower quality but will still do the same thing, like Ive sad.
Spectrum is great stuff but it can get expensive just like dynamat
Youre talking about the pink **** right? The duct insulation will help with just making your car quieter and keeping your car hot/cold. It wont help much with rattles. Closed cell foam will do the same thing as the duct stuff.
There are off brands of dynamat and spectrum but they arent quite as good. For instance they arent as thick or made of slightly different materials. They will work though and if your on a budget and want better sq then go for it, whats it gonna hurt?
eDead is a Rubber Butyl (like dynamat) just lower quality. Scosche makes one too called Accumat. SSA also damplifier and damplifier pro.
SSA is having a sale on some type of stuff like the sludge that Ive put all over my car. Its a water based one lower quality but will still do the same thing, like Ive sad.
since your main concern is rattles look into the vibration dampening mats/liquids over any foam. While something like that duct foam works its ultimatly not going to help eliminate the rattles as much as the actual vibration dampener.
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Sorry to revive this thread. But any idea on how much square feet to buy? I plan on doing doors, floors, front firewall, trunk, under headliner. Looks like ill be going edead after doing some research, seems to be promising. Any MORE advice will be great, thanks guys.
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I have had no problems with edead v1SE, it is a pretty nice butyl based sound deadening product.. I also have used quite a bit of their v3 which is the liquid paint/spray on stuff. I have done installs on several vehicles(including my own) and have had no issues what so ever..
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I was doing some research and found this. http://www.lmperformance.com/5473/70.html
Although it seems like a good deal, assuming i did my math correctly, thats only good for about 40 feet give or take. A saw the Edead stuff on ebay, and didnt think it would be a bad idea. Of course i was thinking of using expanding foam in cracks of the deadener, and any area that i conventionally cannot reach.
Im working with an ion redline, so i may have the possibility of adding dual layers of the deadener. Since the majority of our body panels come out, i can place deadener on the inside door (under the panel of course) And on the outside as well, under the door skin.
I dunno how effective if would be, but id be willing to try
im looking to spend roughly 200-300 dollars for everything. Sorry for the late response man. I appreciate your help.
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Personally I have 2 layers of Dynomat all over my trunk.
I'm running ONE 10" Alpine Type R and a 650Watt Amp.
The Dynomat def. did help but it didn't take away all the rattling as our cars are NOTORIOUS for rattle.
I havn't heard of any of these other "Home Depot" remedies but I am curious if they work and how to do them.
I'm running ONE 10" Alpine Type R and a 650Watt Amp.
The Dynomat def. did help but it didn't take away all the rattling as our cars are NOTORIOUS for rattle.
I havn't heard of any of these other "Home Depot" remedies but I am curious if they work and how to do them.
why? i dont know
#22
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Hey man, sorry man didnt even realize you posted a reply.
I was doing some research and found this. http://www.lmperformance.com/5473/70.html
Although it seems like a good deal, assuming i did my math correctly, thats only good for about 40 feet give or take. A saw the Edead stuff on ebay, and didnt think it would be a bad idea. Of course i was thinking of using expanding foam in cracks of the deadener, and any area that i conventionally cannot reach.
Im working with an ion redline, so i may have the possibility of adding dual layers of the deadener. Since the majority of our body panels come out, i can place deadener on the inside door (under the panel of course) And on the outside as well, under the door skin.
I dunno how effective if would be, but id be willing to try
im looking to spend roughly 200-300 dollars for everything. Sorry for the late response man. I appreciate your help.
I was doing some research and found this. http://www.lmperformance.com/5473/70.html
Although it seems like a good deal, assuming i did my math correctly, thats only good for about 40 feet give or take. A saw the Edead stuff on ebay, and didnt think it would be a bad idea. Of course i was thinking of using expanding foam in cracks of the deadener, and any area that i conventionally cannot reach.
Im working with an ion redline, so i may have the possibility of adding dual layers of the deadener. Since the majority of our body panels come out, i can place deadener on the inside door (under the panel of course) And on the outside as well, under the door skin.
I dunno how effective if would be, but id be willing to try
im looking to spend roughly 200-300 dollars for everything. Sorry for the late response man. I appreciate your help.
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/vibra...damplifier.php
#23
Not to threadjack but I figured I'd jump in rather then start a "Use Search" war. While it doesn't involve my Cobalt, I've got a question sorta along the same lines. I'm more concerned with heat blocking/insulating properties though. I'm getting ready to rebuild the 383 stroker out of my my '69 C/10. Now, long headers combined with no a/c, along with the nature of a 40 year old truck with a beastly engine, it gets HOT. I mean sweat dripping, make you sick sweltering heat. Mainly during lower speeds (no air flow, go figure huh) I've hit a couple cruises and had to jump outta line and hit open road just to cool myself down. The truck itself never overheats. Some sound deadening would be nice though seeing as how it has a wicked "drone" with the headers uncapped.
First main purchase after getting it running will be new matching carpet. I figured I may as well do it right and lay down some kinda barrier. What would you stereo gurus suggest? They all claim to do a good job but I want real opinions. I've also seen where some suggest 2 different layers of seperate types stacked up. Cost won't matter as much since it's a rather small cab, but I don't wanna blow a ton of money. I do however, plan to keep this truck for many many years (was Grandpa's) so I want something that will last. On a side note, the next project will be a much needed stereo upgrade which I'll be calling on you guys again.
Also, where is the best place to buy whatever is suggested, and what would be a fair price?
Sorry for the long multi-question post, any help would be greatly appreciated.
First main purchase after getting it running will be new matching carpet. I figured I may as well do it right and lay down some kinda barrier. What would you stereo gurus suggest? They all claim to do a good job but I want real opinions. I've also seen where some suggest 2 different layers of seperate types stacked up. Cost won't matter as much since it's a rather small cab, but I don't wanna blow a ton of money. I do however, plan to keep this truck for many many years (was Grandpa's) so I want something that will last. On a side note, the next project will be a much needed stereo upgrade which I'll be calling on you guys again.
Also, where is the best place to buy whatever is suggested, and what would be a fair price?
Sorry for the long multi-question post, any help would be greatly appreciated.
#24
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how tight it the new carpet gonna be? id look into some thermal products by second skin audio
Id recommend a solid layer of damplifier followed by a pretty thick layer of firewall spray lastly if you can fit it a layer of motor mat pro under the carpet you should notice a significant heat difference
if that's a little to pricey take out the damplifier and add some more firewall
Id recommend a solid layer of damplifier followed by a pretty thick layer of firewall spray lastly if you can fit it a layer of motor mat pro under the carpet you should notice a significant heat difference
if that's a little to pricey take out the damplifier and add some more firewall
#25
Thanks Emperor.
No idea about the carpet, it's a direct replacement, made to fit, molded carpet. So I would assume it'll be pretty tight. When I call to get color samples I'll ask about fitment too. How thick is all this really gonna amount to anyways?
Like I said, square footage really shouldn't be very much at all, so cost shouldn't be to much, comparatively speaking of course.
My last question is where is the best place to buy Second Skin products?
Thanks again.
No idea about the carpet, it's a direct replacement, made to fit, molded carpet. So I would assume it'll be pretty tight. When I call to get color samples I'll ask about fitment too. How thick is all this really gonna amount to anyways?
Like I said, square footage really shouldn't be very much at all, so cost shouldn't be to much, comparatively speaking of course.
My last question is where is the best place to buy Second Skin products?
Thanks again.